jet pumps

[yuletype5]

How do you tell if a pressure tank is bad? My pressure will not build up, I think the pressure tank is water logged. The pressure holds steady, but I can only get 32 PSI out of the pump?

[LazyPup]

There are a number of issues to be considered here.

Is this a pump system that has been working correctly and now you have problem or has some component in the system recently been changed or added?

Check the settings on your pressure regulator switch. It should have both a Cut in" and "Cut out" setting.

The cut in pressure is the mimimum desired pressure, or the point where the pump will start.

The "Cut Out" pressure is the Maximum desired pressure, or the point where the pump would turn off.

Some pressure controls have both Cut in and cut out listed as actual water pressure or PSIG while others may list either cut in or cut out as an actual pressure, and the opposite is listed in "Differential"

By example, let us assume for the moment that you desire a range of 45psi to 65psi.

Some regulators will have adjustable controls that are labelled cut in and cut out with pressure readings for both settings. You would then set Cut in= 45psi cut out = 65psi

It may have the cut in listed in pressure and the cut out listed by differtial,,
You would then set "Cut in" = 45psi and cut out at +20psi


There really isn't much that can go wrong with a pressure tank.

Air is compressible, while water is not, therefore a pressure tank is configured vertically. As the water enters the tank from the bottom it forces the air in the tank upwards which results in compressing the air. The water continues to fill the tank until the air trapped in the tank is compressed to the "Cut Out" pressure. At cut out the electrical switch opens and turns the pump off. The water is then maintained under pressure by the air trapped in the tank. The compressed air then supplies the working pressure to the water, but as water is consumed the water level in the tank drops, allowing the air to expand and reducing the air pressure. When the air pressure drops to the "Cut In" pressure the pump is started once again.

Most modern pressure tanks have a rubber bladder in them to separate the air and water chambers. As the water enters the tank the rubber bladder stretches upward keep the air and water separated. The pressure functions remain the same, but by preventing water from getting into the air chamber it reduces the amount of rust and corrosion in the upper part of the tank. Also, it prevents the air from being absorbed into the water, however, even if that bladder where to rupture the function of the tank would still remain the same.

Normally if there is insufficient air in the tank you would still have the same working pressures but because the air chamber is now reduced, it would cause the pump to short cycle, or repeatedly switch on and off relatively quickly. This would cause the pump motor to overheat.

[Hube]

IF the tank is a "bladder" type pressure tank,besides a obvious inner bladder, it will also have an air valve (similar to a car tire ) IF the bladder is torn (leaking), it will have some water emitted when this air valve is pushed in.
Otherwise IF the bladders ok, then drain the tank of all water,(shut off pump power first) check with a tire guage and make sure the air psi is approx 2 psi below the pumps 'cut-in' setting. In other words if the pumps cut-in is 30, then the bladder air pressure should be set at 28. A bicycle pump or similar pump will add any required air.
Let us know how you make out, there are many other remedies if this does not solve your problem. Good luck, Hube