How to test new drain/vent system

[JCA1]

I know I have to fill it with water to make sure nothing leaks. What is the best way to do this? Both tub/shower units have the pull and twist drains with no caps, the upstairs shower is just an open drain with no cap. Do I fill the pipes through the shower? Will the tubs fill and overflow and equalize at some point through the tub overflows and stop. What is the best way to do this?

[LazyPup]

Teh only testing required is to run water and visually inspect all the fittings for leaks.

In some jurisdictions they require a static head test for new construction.

The static head test is done during the stack out phase. The Main drain line is plugged, and all waste arms and drain openings are plugged. The entire drain system is then filled with water to the top of the vent and left standing for 24 hrs. At the end of 24 hours the water must still be within 1" of the top of the vent.

[JCA1]

Ok I tried this evening and the water ran through the overflow and almost overran the tubs. I guess I need to cut and cap the pipes from the tubs and test the drain system and tubs seperately? Sound right?

[LazyPup]

In order for water to come in through the overflow the tub drain would have to be closed and a complete obstruction in a vertical stack that would back water up higher than the overflow.

The only other way it could occur would be if the overflows are not connected correctly.

[JCA1]

I don't understand that LazyPup. These overflows are just open pipes, I'm filling the system from the vent upstairs, much higher than the tubs, so instead of just filling up the pipes it's running through the overflows.

[LazyPup]

OK,,,now I understand the problem. You are attempting a hydrostatic test.

A hydrostatic test is only done during the stack out phase of new construction and it can't be done once the traps nnd fixture have been installed.

For maintenance or rework the only test required is to run water and visually examine all joints for leaks.

[JCA1]

Well thats where I screwed up. I already installed the traps and drain/overflows on the tubs. These do not have caps because they are not the glue together ones. I guess I need to take these out and install the glue on type because they have test caps/plugs. Is there another way other than cutting the pipe and capping or replacing the drains with the flue on type?

[LazyPup]

You do not need to do a static head test...just run water and visually check for leaks,,if you have no leaks your done.

[JCA1]

But this is new construction on the house wife and I are building.

[LazyPup]

Even if this is new construction you may not be required to do a static head test. It depends upon what is required by your local authority. Normally new construction plumbing is done in three phases, Rough In (underslab), Stack out(slab to roof in wall piping, set tubs), and Trim Out(set all fixtures & make final connections), and most jurisdictions require an inspection at the end of each phase. If a static head test is required it is part of the inspection and the inspector would want to see both the test and the result. If the inspector signed off on your permit without requesting the test, none is required.

Glue in traps do not have test plugs either, fortunately since you have slip joint traps it is basically easy. First remove the traps at the trap adapter. You can then insert an expanding rubber test plug into the trap adapters. You will also need to plug the house main drain for the test. If it is not connected to the house sewer line yet, you simply insert a test plug in the end of the line. If it is connected to the house sewer you can use a pnematic test plug which is inserted into the line through the main cleanout.

[JCA1]

Ok thanks, I can handle that.