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Hi all. I have a couple of questions. My wife and I are getting a new Corian countertop with Corian sinks in it. That means I will be putting in both a new disposal flange and a drain flange (in the other sink) along with all new drain lines. My questions are - 1st, is plumbers putty still the best thing to put under the flange before tightening and if so, will any plumbers putty work (some sinks say not to use an oil based plumber putty)? If Plumbers Putty is not best, what is? and the second question is how tight should I tighten the nut that holds the flange in place. I am always afraid of over tightening it and breaking the sink. Thanks in advance for the responses.
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Whenever I am attaching drain fittings to Stainless Steel, Powder Coat Enameled cast Iron, Vitreous China or Fiberglass I prefer to use Plumbers Putty because it seals emmediately and does not require any cure time so I can test run some water, but as you pointed out, many manufacturers of synthetics such as corian or cultured marble recommend you do not use plumbers putty on their product. I use a simple rule here, "When in doubt, check it out!" If it is a new sink there should be some mounting instructions packed with it, read them carefully before you proceed. If you don't have the installation specs contact the local dealer and ask them if there are any special instructions.
The alternative to using plumbers putty is a good quality silicone cauking such as GE clear silicone. A word of caution, if you use silicone do not run any water until the silicone has had ample time to cure, usually 24 hours.
Before you begin check the sink drain opening closely, both top and bottom to be sure there are no stickers, labels, scotch tape, dust or debris that could interfere with making a good seal.
If using plumbers putty work the putty thoroughly to soften it, (it actually softens from the warmth of your hands), then roll it into a rope about the diameter of a common wooden lead pencil. Wrap one full turn of the putty around the underside of the Sink Basket flange and lightly press in place, (Be careful not to get the putty on the mounting threads of the sink basket.) then insert the basket through the drain hole in the sink.
Locate the Rubber gasket, the paper or fiber anti-friction gasket and the lock ring. (i like to apply a light film of silicone on the top surface of the rubber gasket where it will adhere to the underside of the sink)
Slide the gasket up on the basket until it is firmly against the underside of the sink.
Slide the paper or fiber anti-friction washer on next. (The paper is to prevent friction between the rubber gasket and the lock ring. Do Not apply silione to the anti-friction gasket)
Screw the lock ring up against the underside of the sink finger tight.
From the top, hold the basket steady with a "Basket Wrench" while tigthening the lock ring in place. (You should have a "Basin Wrench to tighten the lock ring." The lock ring must be tightened firmly enough to lightly compress the rubber gasket. (There is little chance of over-tightening the lock ring). -
Thanks, Lazypup, for the detailed instructions. I will look for some installation instructions when the sink arrives. Again, thanks very much.Comment
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