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[?] okay first, i'm not a plumber, and i have to do this myself ("my friend" the plumber never showed up). i have a copper pipe connected to a galvanized pipe (galvanized has a leak close to connection) the pipes are in a crawl space under the kitchen, and pipes are running to sink in kitchen. can get to crawl space from basement area. okay, what i found on the internet is that i've got to have a dielectric union (sounds outrageous) or a 6" brass nipple for the connection. when searching around i also found that some were recommending stainless steel flex tubing for hot water heater connections. so i'm wondering if i could use this instead and avoid all that torch and solder stuff which i know nothing about? if not is there some other thing i could do temporarily (no water for 2 days) [:X] and a girls got to have water. any suggestions greatly appreciated.
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The use of a stainless steel connector would be strictly prohibited.
While most people only think of the dielectric coupling in terms of joining copper to galvanized iron pipe, in truth the codes prohibit any direct coupling of Copper to any metal containing Ferric Oxide(iron). This would not only include galvanized and black iron pipe, but also the steel storage vessels of water heaters, pressure tanks, expansion tanks, hydronic heating systems, etc.
The term "Stainless Steel" is a generic term used in the metals industry to define a vast array of alloys. While there are high grades of stainless steel that contain very little trace of iron, those metals are primarily only used in extemely high heat areas such as the combustion chambers of jet engines or high pressure steam turbines. The extremely high grades of stainless steel have a dull brownish color and cannot be made to shine. The shiny bright stainless steel alloys that we find in residential applications are really very low grade stainless allows that contain a substantial amount of iron which can be evidenced by touching them with a magnet. Magnets primarily only stick to metals that contain iron.
The codes only permit three options when connecting copper to iron.
1. A dielectric union
2. A dielectric nipple
3. A 6' brass or bronze nipple (many local codes will require hardened bronze)
The installation of a dielectric union requires that the copper end be soldered to the pipe, but it is your desire to avoid soldering so we must examine other options.
The codes prohibit using copper compression fittings in concealled locations, however you stated that this line is running through a crawl space, and even though access may be inconvenient it still would meet the code standard of being accessible, therefore we can use a copper compression fitting.
Begin by cutting the copper pipe close to the existing copper to galvanized joint, then remove the copper thread adapter from the end of the galvanized pipe and clean the pipe threads with a wire brush.
Apply pipe dope to the galvanized pipe male thread and install a galvanized pipe union. From the opposite end of the union apply pipe dope to the threads of a 6" bronze nipple and thread it into the union.
On the opposite end of the bronze nipple attach a 5/8" compression X 1/2"FIP thread adapter.
Now cut the existing copper pipe even with inside bottom surface of the 5/8" compression fitting.
You can now dissassemble the galvanized union and slide the 5/8" compression fitting on the end of the 1/2" copper pipe and tighten it in place. Once the compression fitting is tightened you will be able to reassemble the galvanized union and you will have a permanent repair.
NOTE: copper pipe is sized by its inside diameter while compression fittings are primarily sized to be used on copper tubing which is defined by the outside diameter. The outside diameter of a 1/2" copper pipe is 5/8" so this explains why I specified a 5/8" compression adapter to go on your 1/2" copper pipe.
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thanks for the detailed instructions. i'm going to attempt this today, and will post back here as to how it goes.
"wherever you go there you are."Comment
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