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using cleanout for kitchen drain

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  • using cleanout for kitchen drain

    I am installing a kitchen in my basement and want to know if it is okay to use the cleanout as a kitchen sink drain. I will install a fitting so that the pipe can still be cleaned out and be used as a drain. Also will be using a Studor vent to prevent gas seepage.

    Any thoughts?

  • #2
    If the existing cleanout is in a vertical plane you may attach a sanitary Tee to the existing cleanout with a new cleanout cap on the end of the Tee and your new drain line attaching to the side inlet.

    If the cleanout is on a horizontal line you would need to use a Wye &1/8 bend or a combo to attach your new line and put the cleanout cap on the end.

    If you are tying into a horizontal line or if you are tying into a vertical stack that does not serve a toilet from above you may not need the studor vent. It would depend upon the length of your new line to the sink.

    If you will provide additional information on the layout and length of run I will help you lay it out.

    Comment


    • #3
      Im kinda lost when you refer to horizontal and perpendicular. (i know what they mean but in relation to piping am confused.) The cleanout in my home is at the very front of the house, closest to the street. It is simply a pipe in the ground (4 inches) with no vent. the kitchen sink will be just above it. I know that they sell a fitting at home depot wich will screw into the existing cleanout and provide for a opening that will still allow for a cleanout and an opening (2 inches) that will allow for the kitchen sink to drain to). Since there is not vent (nearest one is 4 inches and about 20 feet away). So I think a studor vent will be necessary.


      Comment


      • #4
        The code requires that you keep the existing cleanout the same diameter.

        I have attached an illustrated solution where you can attach your new line to the cleanout while maintaining the cleanout to code spec.

        Note the length limits on the top horizontal line. If your horizontal run is equal to or less than the defined lengths you will not need to install the studor vent.

        The vertical length is not critical unless it exceeds 40' then you would need to increase the line by one nominal trade size (1-1/2" to 2")

        You would need to know whether your local code is based upon either the Uniform Plumbing Code or the International Residential Code.

        Comment


        • #5
          I decided to piggyback/hijack this thread instead of starting my own since I would have to link back to this one anyway...

          Sorry, I'm new to plumbing. I have a friend that can help me but he doesn't know the code very well or even the repercussions of what I'm trying to accomplish here, just the 'mechanics' of setting up pipe.

          I checked the Ohio code and apparently it's based off of IRC.

          Scenario: I want to setup a drain. IF I have to, I'll do a sink, but what I really want to do is have a threaded connection to a hose to drain a fish tank with. I'm sure I can find the right equipment but my concerns are (and I don't know enough to know if I'm worrying about the wrong things) if there will be backflow from the drain and venting gas (I've seen this mentioned as a problem in other forums).

          Usually, when people ask about doing this, the response is that it's either against code, venting gas could cause health risk, or negative pressure from upper floors. Now, again, I don't know enough to know whether the other places I've read this are due to slight differences in what the OPs are asking.

          Anyway, I would appreciate the help.

          Thanks,
          Eric

          Here's a link to the pic of my cleanout just in case... pretty typical I think.

          www (dot) lamspot.com/basement/upload_basement_pvc2.jpg

          I don't have enough posts to link to image, so replace (dot) above with '.'

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by LazyPup View Post
            The code requires that you keep the existing cleanout the same diameter.

            I have attached an illustrated solution where you can attach your new line to the cleanout while maintaining the cleanout to code spec.

            Note the length limits on the top horizontal line. If your horizontal run is equal to or less than the defined lengths you will not need to install the studor vent.

            The vertical length is not critical unless it exceeds 40' then you would need to increase the line by one nominal trade size (1-1/2" to 2")

            You would need to know whether your local code is based upon either the Uniform Plumbing Code or the International Residential Code.

            This is an improper drain connection and is illegal under every plumbing code that I know of. This is not vented at all like it should be.
            Last edited by Redwood; 06-15-2011, 12:10 PM.
            I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
            Now I can Plumb!

            For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
            Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
            Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi SendThis,

              The primary objection to using a cleanout many times is the fitting in the line being tied into being an improper drainage fitting, Removing a required cleanout from the line and blocking it with a drain, or the newly installed drain line not being properly vented.

              Since this line comes from higher in the house there is little doubt that water from the floor above is flowing past that cleanout. For proper venting the drain you install would require a properly constructed vent to run to the floor above an tie in at the distance above the flood rim required by you locally used code to an existing vent.

              Failure to do so can result in trap siphonage and the loss of trap seal allowing sewer gases to enter your home.
              I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
              Now I can Plumb!

              For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
              Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
              Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hello,

                Thank you for your precious time and valuable question. I think there is no problem with this, but commercial Drano does not often work. I had a similar problem, and the commercially-available stuff simply did not work. This case was a bathroom sink, and all of my pipes except for the trap is white PVC.

                Thanks a lot again
                Harold Geronimo

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Harold,

                  Yes, the last hope for many before calling the drain cleaning guy is often the bottle and it seldom does anything...

                  A drain cleaner with his electric powered snake can in most cases have a drain flowing better than you can ever remember usually within a couple of hours of placing the call.
                  I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
                  Now I can Plumb!

                  For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
                  Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
                  Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Redwood View Post
                    Hi SendThis,

                    The primary objection to using a cleanout many times is the fitting in the line being tied into being an improper drainage fitting, Removing a required cleanout from the line and blocking it with a drain, or the newly installed drain line not being properly vented.

                    Since this line comes from higher in the house there is little doubt that water from the floor above is flowing past that cleanout. For proper venting the drain you install would require a properly constructed vent to run to the floor above an tie in at the distance above the flood rim required by you locally used code to an existing vent.

                    Failure to do so can result in trap siphonage and the loss of trap seal allowing sewer gases to enter your home.
                    Okay, this is slightly more complicated than what I was hoping for...

                    Would there be anything against code to uncap it, use it as a drain, and then re-cap it? I don't need this to be continuously open. Are there any negatives to doing this?

                    I only need it open when I drain the tanks. This should be no more than an hour a day (max).

                    Thanks again!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      no, unless you object to sewer gas smell

                      Comment

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