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Any good on Line Resources on how to install a Bat

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  • Any good on Line Resources on how to install a Bat

    I am ripping out a tub sized shower enclosure, the walls that surround it, the floor under it, and installing a standard acrylic tub. Walls floor and moviving pipes aren't a problem, but I have never installed a tub. Any good on-line resources for info?

  • #2
    I am not aware of another online source but i will try to offer you the basics here.

    Installing a tub is not difficult, but I cannot emphasize enough here, READ THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS thoroughly as not all tubs are installed the same way.

    Tubs are set in during the plumbing "stack out" before the wallboard is installed.

    The first key to success is properly framing the tub opening. When the tub is in place the ends and back of the tub should fit firmly against the studding, but not so tight that it would require excessive force to put the tub in place. I prefer the rough opening about 1/8" to 1/4" wider than the overall length of the tub.

    Measure the vertical height from the floor to the underside of the tub apron and install a horizontal wooden ledger board upon which the tub apron will rest when in place. Be very careful to insure the ledger is perfectly level otherwise your tub may not drain properly.
    Also check the clearance at the head of the tub to insure the ledger will not be covering the hole for the "Overflow" pipe.

    Check your Manufacturers instructions. Some tubs have built in leg supports while others have foam blocks attached to the underside of the tub to support the bottom, however some tubs require "Bedding" with mortar mix. Failure to provide the MFG recommended support under the tub will result in a soft bottom tub and may cause the finish to crack or the tub itself to fail in use.

    If you need to install a masonary bedding be sure to install blocking around the bedding and allow ample space under the drain to later attach the "Drain Waste shoe".

    Some tubs require drilling small holes through the tub apron rim and screwing the tub to the framing while others will have metal clips that fasten to the apron and are then screwed to the framing.

    Once the tub is set in place I like to cut a sheet of carboard from the tub box to cover the top of the tub, then lay a sheet of plywood on top of that to prevent any debris from falling in the tub and causing damage during construction.

    The plumbing code requires that we install concrete backerboard in the shower enclosure area until the walls are a minimum of 72" above the finished elevation of the tub drain. You may then use water resistant wallboard (greenboard) above that level to the ceiling.

    You MUST apply water resistant building paper or a plastic membrane material to the studding behind the backerboard, but you MAY NOT install a water resistant membrane behind greenboard.

    If the finished tub drain will be accessible, either through a 12" x 12" service access panel through the wall or from underneath you may use a conventional slip joint type Waste & Overflow Kit and P-Trap, but if it will be a concealed location with no service access you MUST USE a solid glue in type waste & overflow kit and P-trap.





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