Black PVC/PEX..

[mrcaptainbob]

My last house, as with the one I'm in now, have the black PVC from the well pump to the house. When installing the outdoor wood burning furnace, it was suggested (strongly recommended) that PEX be used. I can understand PEX for the house because of it's ability to not react with water, but is not the same to be said for the black PVC? THe point of this question is this: I'm preparing to run a new line from the house to the well. Would also like to rn a line from that wood burner to the barn. Would it be okay to use the black PVC for the furnace/barn run? THe water temp ranges from 170/190 degrees and is at 10 psi or less. Also, should I stick with the black PVC for the well/house run? (existing is 3/4"). I have to refresh the ground line as it did acquire a leak and plan to use 1" and am considering 1 1/4". The furnace to barn run is about 150' as is the well to house.

[LazyPup]

A minor point of correction here. PVC pipe is not made in Black. PVC pipe is made in White, gray, occassionally blue and for special applications they make clear PVC. ( I once saw a fixture test facility where all the Drain, waste & vent lines were made with clear pipe. It was very interesting to actually see the flow action of the water as it passed through the lines.)

I presume the black pipe you are descibing is the seamless roll type which comes in 50 or 100 ft rolls. (500 ft by special order) If that is so, the pipe is actually Polyethelene Plastic Tubing.

Polyethelene Pipe is connected by means of "Barb Fittings" which have a tubular section with raised ridges that is inserted into the end of the pipe then held in place by a stainless steel screw clamps similar to automobile radiator clamps.

PE pipe is listed by both the International Residential Code and the Uniform Plumbing Code as approved for "Supply piping" which is the underground lines from the source to the main water shutoff at a structure.

It may not be used for Distribution lines within a structure.

It is suitable for direct burial in rock free soil or when sand padded in soil that contains rocks.

Minimum burial is 6" below the indicated average frost depth for any given location. Example: if your region has an average frost depth of 12" the pipe must be buried a minium of 18" below grade.

You other code approved options for direct burial lines are:

PVC shcd 40, PEX, Copper Tubing, (International Residential code will also permit polybutelene tubing).

My concern here would be to insure that the pipe or tubing that you select is rated to handle the operating temperature of your heating loop.

If you could supply me a complete list of all plumbing fixtures in your house and layout I would be glad to try to compute the proper size of supply line for your application.

[mrcaptainbob]

Supply line.....

I was just about to correct that post about the black PVC when I saw you already posted. It's a two sory: the first floor has kitchen sink, dishwasher, while the 1st flr bath has shower, commode sink and the the laundry washing machine. The 2nd flr has shower/tub, commode and sink. Any size supply from the well to the house will be an improvement over the 3/4" existing! No telling what caused the ground leak. Don't know where it is except between the well and the house. We do live in a heavy rock infested area and every spring new ones grow along with the crocuses! I'm considering the 1 1/4 as I believe hat's the port opening on the well pump, and figured it would only make the flow easier. The 1" supply we had at the last house on a 200' length was adequate, but I don;t know if that could've been improved. I prefer to err on the high side. I don't wan't to visit this again. If it's okay to go with the larger then that's wat I'll do.
As for the heat issue, where can I go to find the heat ranges of pe tubing?

[LazyPup]

For computation I have used table T-2903.6 in the International Residential Code. You will note that the code lists a "Fixture Unit" value for both Hot & Cold water to each fixture.

In order to determine the proper size of the supply line we need to total both the hot & cold together to get a total demand load for the structure. We would then use the Hot & Cold values to determine the proper size of the hot & cold distribution lines within the structure.

Using the list of fixtures in your house we get the following result:

Kitchen sink 1H 1C, Dishwasher 1.4H 0 C
1st Bathroom: Shower 1H 1C, Lavatory 0.5H 0.5C, W.C. 0H 2.2C

Laundry:
Washing Machine 1H 1C, Laundry Tub 1H 1C
(Option-may be computed as a laundry group at 1.8H 1.8C )

Upstairs bath:
Tub/shower 1H 1C, WC 0H 2.2C, Lavatory 0.5H 0.5C

Outside Hose Bibb (Code requires min. of one) 0 H 2.2 C


Sub total: 7.4Fixture units (hot) 12.6Fixture Units (cold)

Total Fixture Units 7.4 + 12.6 = 20 Fixture Units Cold supply

Supply line sized per IRC Table 22

3/4" supply line @ 40-49psi supply pressure = 32FU from zero to 80ft run
1" Supply line @ 40-49psi supply pressure = 32FU up to 100ft run
1" supply line @ 40-49psi supply pressure will provide 32FU from 100 -150ft
1" Supply line @ 40-49psi supply pressure will provide 21FU from 150 to 200ft
1-1/4" line @ 40-49psi supply pressure will provide 52FU at 200ft.

[mrcaptainbob]

Dia/pressure......

Since I'm running 40/60 psi, would 1" still be 'adequate'? I don;t mind at all running the 1 1/4 stuff. It'll still supply. And may even add to the 'volume' of the pressure tank and water sytem! (?)

[LazyPup]

The calculations indicte the line size required if all fixtures are in use at the same time, which in the real world would probably never occur.

If your run is 150ft or less 1" should be ample, but if its over 150 and understanding that your pump is set up for it and you don't mind running the larger pipe, 1-1/4 would handle 100% of your load and still provide a margin for future expansion of your system.

[mrcaptainbob]

1" / 1 1/4"

Thanks Lazypup. You've given me the incentive...