How to connect to iron pipe flange? (2 part question)

[opposablethumb]

Hi,

Please see attached photo.

I presume the part sticking out of the concrete is a 2" iron pipe flange...? The pipe lying beside it is the 2" iron pipe and threaded galvanized pipe that was connected to the flange. This is the drain from my kitchen sink in my 1939 house.

My first question is, can I connect ABS to this iron pipe flange? Is there some kind of ABS expansion flange that I can connect to the iron pipe that will allow me to easily connect ABS?

If not, how do I reconnect this drain to my kitchen sink...?

The second question is, should I have taken apart this joint? Permit me to explain... When I removed the ceiling and a rotting wall from my basement I found the photographed 2" galvanized pipe and iron pipe connected to a odd-ball assortment of 1 1/2 ABS unions, short sections of ABS pipe, and unnecessary bends that wound its way to my kitchen sink. My goal was to replace the wayward ABS with a clean run of pipe. About 10 years ago my kitchen was remodeled by the previouse homeowner. The addition of the ABS seems to be the result of moving the sink and connecting ABS to the existing galvanized pipe from above.

When I uncoupled the compression fitting (metal band, rubber sleve) that was joining the galvanized pipe to the ABS, I discovered that the iron pipe joint was very loose. I was concerned that the looseness of the joint would allow leakage if the drain ever backed up. Without any idea of what I was doing I dug at the union with my nail punch and without too much effort pulled out a ring of lead (?), at which point the union came apart. My question is, did I make matters worse? Was the joint ok, and I just monkeyed with something that should have been left well-enough alone? (If this was a mistake, I don't want to make the same mistake again...).

Thanks in advance for your advice and support.

Daniel

[LazyPup]

If that joint was a loose as you describe you are correct that it probably would leak therefore you definitely have done nothing wrong, in fact, you have resolved the hard part of your job. Normally connecting PVC or ABS would require either cutting a piece of the cast iron pipe or digging the lead out of a joint. Cutting cast iron pipe is easy if you happen to have a "Cast iron pipe snap cutter" but at $150 to $200 a copy not many homeowners have one handy. (they can usually be rented at a tool rental company).

Normally the alternative is to drill the lead full of holes then pry it out but in this case the lead was loose so you were able to get it out fairly easy. If you look on the lower end of the pipe section that you took out you see the dark black material clinging to the pipe. That is the remnants of the oakum that was used to pack the joint before the lead was poured. When new oakum appears like a piece of frayed manila rope.

You next step is to take an old screwdriver and dig the remaining oakum out of the joint and clean the inside of the hub with a wire brush. It doesn't need to be really clean, just get as much of the loose material as you can.

They make a rubber donut gasket for connecting PVC or ABS to a Cast Iron Hub but in my experience they are usually difficult to find and I have never had much luck with them.

I prefer to use a method very similar to the original lead joints.

The outside diameter of PVC or ABS pipe is considerably smaller than the OD of Cast Iron pipe so I usually begin with a PVC or ABS coupling which is closer to the CI pipe OD, Set the coupling in the Cast Iron pipe hub, then pack the space between the OD of the coupling and the ID of the hub with Oakum tightly packed in place until the hub. Continue packing until the oakum is about 3/4" from the top of the hub. Top it off with a layer of Plumbers Epoxy up to the top lip of the hub in the same manner as lead was originally poured in the joints. Allow about 30 minutes to an hour for the epoxy to set then you can insert your new ABS or PVC in the coupling and run in the normal manner.

When running your new pipe there are a couple other points you should know.

Code requires a cleanout at each change of direction greater than 45deg. You will be making a vertical riser from this hub up to a point where it joins a horizontal run to your kitchen. On the top of that vertical riser you need to install a DWV rated Tee (DWV =Drain, Waste & VENT) with the horizontal line connecting to the side opening. One the top of the Tee you will install a cleanout thread adapter and a cleanout cap. NOTE-You must use a TEE as Code prohibits using a Wye & 1/8 bend or Combo on a vertical riser.

On the upstream end of the horizontal line where it changes to vertical up to the kitchen you will also need a cleanout. In this case you will be required to install a Wye & 1/8 the bend or a Combo. Code prohibits a Tee on a horizontal line. Connect the wye or combo with the vertical riser connecting to the side opening and install another cleanout thread adapter and cleanout cap on the end of the Wye.

The horizontal section must be run with a 1/4" per foot pitch downward in the direction of flow.

NOTE:

Pressure pipe fittings are defined by the degree of the angle, I.E. 90deg Elbow, 45deg elbow etc.

In order to help insure we do not inadvertantly misuse a pressure fitting on a drain line DWV fittings are defined by the fraction of a circle that the change in direction represents, thus a 90deg DWV fitting would properly be identified as a 1/4 bend. (360 deg divided by 4 = 90 deg.)

On the lighter side, I seem to have an opposable thumb too. No matter how i approach a problem my thumb seems to get in the way.

[opposablethumb]

Thank you.

Hello LazyPup,

Thank you for your thorough and helpful reply. I'll tackle the refitting of the iron pipe first, and I think I'll have a follow-up question (or 2) regarding code and the pipe I run to the sink. Thanks again. Daniel.