new gas line

[moy]

I am trying to install a new gas line. I have a stove that is electric and i want to switch to gas. My question is where do I tap the new line into. I have a manifold has holds all my other gas line and before that it has what looks like a pressure regulator which says max inlet pressure 10 psig. What does that means? Do I tap in the new line at the end of the manifold or does it really matter? Do I put in between the manifold and the pressure regulator thing or can I just tap into directly into main gas line, confused!!!

[Snoonyb]

1st, tell us about your house.
Single story? Basement? Raised foundation crawl space? Slab on grade?
Where is the kitchen in relationship to the gas meter?
Where is the kitchen in relationship to the laundry room, and do you have a gas line there for the dryer?
Do you have a fireplace with a gas log near the kitchen?
Is your comfort heating appliance gas fired and where is it?

[LazyPup]

First of all, let us define the term "PSIG"

We must remember that the earths atmosphere exerts an average pressure of 14.2pounds per square inch at sea level therefore if we used PSIA(pounds per square inch-Absolute) the guage would read all available pressure therefore even when totally disconnected and lying loose in your hand a PSIA guage would read the atmospheric pressure and indicate 14-15psi. We would then need to subtract the atmospheric pressure from the actual reading to determine the line pressure.

The term PSIG (Pounds per square inch-Guage) indicates that the guage measures pressure above standard atmospheric pressure or in simple terms, the guage is calibrated to read "zero" at standard atmospheric pressure and it indicates the pressure increase above standard atmosphere.

By contrast a vacuum guage reads pressure below standard atmospheric pressure and is usually calibrated in inches of mercury "in/hg".

Although seldom seen in plumbing, in the refrigeration trade they use a "coumpound guage" which is an absolute guage that is calibrated to read ZERO at standard atmospheric pressure, PSI at pressures above standard atmosphere and inches of mercury at pressures below standard atmosphere.

A residential gas meter contains an internal pressure reducing valve. In most jurisdictions the maximum allowable service pressure on the outlet or structure side of the meter is .5PSIG (8oz per square inch). In some areas that have older meters the limit is .25psig (4oz) line pressure.

You gas meter is listed for a maximum "10psig inlet pressure". This means that your meter may only be connected to a municipal main that has a working pressure of 10psig or less. Your meter would then receive gas from the municipal main at up to 10psig and reduce the line pressure to the code maximum of .25 or .5 psig before delivering it to your house.

Absolutely do not make any attempt to tie into the line before that regulator. It would result in delivering gas into your system at 10 /.25 = 40 times the allowable working pressure for the regulators on your appliances. Not only would that be illegal it would be potentially lethal because an ordinary kitchen range burner would now blow a flame 5 or 6 feet high not to mention what would happen in your furnace or water heater.

Due to the extremely low working pressure on residential gas lines line sizing requires very precise calculations. Before you can connect a gas range you must first determine if your existing gas line is capable of assuming the additional load. In order to determine the total load we would need to have a list of:
1. all appliances operated by gas, as well as the BTU/hr rating of the burners.
2.BTU/Hr per cubic foot value of your gas. (typically 1100btu/cu.ft)-check with local supplier.
3. For a manifold system we would need the total developed length of the pipe run from the manifold to the proposed range location.
4. Outlet pressure of your gas valve.
5. Diameter of the line from the gas valve to the manifold.
6. Working diameter of the manifold.

In addition to the calculations there are a number of very subtle nuances in the Gas Code such as type of materials, types of valves and fittings, type of joints permitted by location (I.E. Concealed vs. immediately accessible), placement of valves, unions and drip stubs etc.

When all things are considered running gas lines is not difficult but due to the complexities involved and the potential for disasster it is not a project that I would recommend to anyone who has not had prior experience under the direct supervision of someone certified in the trade.

[moy]

The house is a 2 story house with a basement. The kitchen is in the first floor about 25 feet away from the manifold where I was thinking of tying in the new line. This manifold has 4 ports 1 for the drier, 1 for the fireplace, 1 for the furnace and last one to the water heater. The drier is about 10 feet away from the manifold and the furnace is about 15 feet away from manifold as well all are in the basement. My fireplace is a gas log located in the first floor about 25 feet away from the kitchen. Snoony thank you for the reply. and as far as lazyPup that is a ton of information you gave me one I will have to take some time to digest thank you.

[leodlion]

First of all, let us define the term "PSIG"

We must remember that the earths atmosphere exerts an average pressure of 14.2pounds per square inch ...

Due to the extremely low working pressure on residential gas lines line sizing requires very precise calculations. Before you can connect a gas range you must first determine if your existing gas line is capable of assuming the additional load. In order to determine the total load we would need to have a list of:
1. all appliances operated by gas, as well as the BTU/hr rating of the burners.
2.BTU/Hr per cubic foot value of your gas. (typically 1100btu/cu.ft)-check with local supplier.
3. For a manifold system we would need the total developed length of the pipe run from the manifold to the proposed range location.
4. Outlet pressure of your gas valve.
5. Diameter of the line from the gas valve to the manifold.
6. Working diameter of the manifold.

In addition to the calculations there are a number of very subtle nuances in the Gas Code such as type of materials, types of valves and fittings, type of joints permitted by location (I.E. Concealed vs. immediately accessible), placement of valves, unions and drip stubs etc.

When all things are considered running gas lines is not difficult but due to the complexities involved and the potential for disasster it is not a project that I would recommend to anyone who has not had prior experience under the direct supervision of someone certified in the trade.

Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi.

He is just converting a stove from electric to gas. The current gas lines should accomodate that load.

I agree to hire somebody if you are not knowledgeable. However, if you decide to tacke the job, make sure that you test for gas leak thoroughly after installation.

[LazyPup]

While you are making the argument that he is only converting an electric range to a gas range it must be noted that a freestanding gas range is rated at 65K BTU which is nearly double the rate of a 40gal water heater (35K BTU) or a gas laundry dryer (35K BTU) and the range is well above the rating of some central furnaces ((50 - 200k BTU).

The entire plumbing trade, gas, water and Drain, waste & Vent is very closely regulated by code standards and their simply is no room in this industry for guesswork if one expects to achieve proper function or predictable results.

[leodlion]

While you are making the argument that he is only converting an electric range to a gas range it must be noted that a freestanding gas range is rated at 65K BTU which is nearly double the rate of a 40gal water heater (35K BTU) or a gas laundry dryer (35K BTU) and the range is well above the rating of some central furnaces ((50 - 200k BTU)...
T.

You can argue that but I dont buy it. Because of a very simple logic. There must be hundreds of houses in the area where he lives where the range uses gas instead of electricity.

The design of the gas intake system, specially in track houses development, must be to accomodate the maximum number of gas appliances in a typical house. Whether the original house owner selected an electric range and later on converted to a gas range should be taken care of in the original design.