Need to move pipes to allow installation of tub?

[SlowCoder]

I attempted a dry installation of my new tub, only to find out that the pipes are getting in the way because they are in front of one of the 2x4's

1. Is it ok to notch the 2x4 so that the pipes can be moved back?
2. I want to be able to center the water control valve over the tub. It is currently about 3 inches to the right of center. Is it ok to just push it over until it's centered?

Here are some pics:

http://68.35.236.100/br/00001.jpg

http://68.35.236.100/br/00002.jpg

http://68.35.236.100/br/00004.jpg

[596]

Please do no leave that valve in place. See those 3 little tubes attaching the valve body to the core? Between all the plumbing forums, we see about one post a week saying " I tried to take my valve apart and these little tubes twisted and now it leaks. What do I do?". What you do is replace the entire valve, and it is a whole lot easier to do it now than after your ceramic tile is up!


Yes you can notch the studs. You must determine exactly where you finished wall surface will be. Then, put in better blocking to secure the valve in place at the correct depth.

There is probably enough flex in that soft copper to make it land where it needs to be, but at this point, it would be trivial to just cut it and install new risers to the valve if necessary.


I recommend a Delta 1300 or 1700 series. There are other good valves. I would never put an off-brand or a foo-foo designer brand inside the wall. A sink faucet, if it becomes unserviceabe 5 years down the road, you just toss it. A shower valve is a commitment for 20+ years, unless you really love redoing tile work.

[SlowCoder]

So I'm guessing that replacing the valve would require soldering? Grrr.

(My wife told me I wasn't supposed to mess with the pipes )

[pushkins]

(My wife told me I wasn't supposed to mess with the pipes )


Ha ha ha ha....if I only had a dollar for every time I've heard a husband say that, more often than not.....after the fact

[LazyPup]

Taking this post to the next logical conclusion, the plumbing codes now require that the mixing valve be upgraded to an _anti-scald" type mixer.

In addition, from what I can see in the photo's the existing tub waste & overflow appears to be a conventional slip joint type. Code prohibits a slip joint type waste & overflow unless it is readily accessible through a 12"x12" access panel either from underneath or through an adjacent wall. Since this appears to be on a slab we can rule out access from underneath and the adjacent wall appears to be an exterior wall so I doubt that you would want an access panel there. This means that the existing waste & overflow should be taken out and replaced with a permanent glue in type waste & overflow.

[SlowCoder]

LazyPup,
I broke the original one, which was of the same type, and which is what required me to remove the tub in the first place. The wall is interior, backing up to my other bathroom. I can easily cut an access by entering under the other bathroom's cabinet. I didn't think of this before removing the tub, and I didn't mention it to my wife after the fact, when I realized I could have, either. Shhhhh!