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Upstairs shower install, help!

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  • Upstairs shower install, help!

    Hi guys. I'm the new kid in town. I'm in the process of tearing out an upstairs shower (surround type). I've banged the walls and removed all the nails. I've drilled 4 holes around the drain so I can sawsall around it to release its grip on the drain. Next I'm going to sawsall down the middle and see if I can take it out in halves or in pieces anyway. My question is..... (I'm not real familiar with plumbing). I wanted to get a simple shower pan and tile up from there. But how do I do the plumbing to the shower pan? I guess I have to tear into the wall from downstairs to hook up the drain, is there an easier way? If so, can anyone explain the details of this? Thanks.

    Mike

  • #2
    what type drain lines, pvc, cast iron or abs, and what was your old shower made of, fiberglass, pvc or concrete and tile and what are you going back with

    Comment


    • #3
      If you don't have easy access to the drain from below, you'll want to fit a slip couple on the P-trap. You'll have to position it directly under the shower pan drain and cut the drain fitting to length. This may take some trial and error -- placing and removing the shower pan until you get it right. When it all lines up, set the pan and screw in the strainer. This can be difficult for a novice. Doing it wrong means damaging the ceiling below. It might be wise to bring in a plumber or an experienced friend just for this part. At the very least, buy a how-to book and you'll see photo's and drawings of how it comes together.

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      • #4
        Thanks for the response guys. I have yet to completely take the shower out yet. It is a fiberglass one piece. As soon as I get time to remove it completely I'll respond as to what type of plumbing.

        Comment


        • #5
          Ok, I've yanked the shower out. I had to cut around the drain and leave part of the shower floor attached to the drain to get it out. It looks like abs. But it looks like it has a brass threaded part as well. I'll try and see if I can attach pictures. I want to just put in a pan so that I can tile all the way up. I do not want to tile the floor (over the pan).

          I've tried to upload pictures, we'll see if it worked.

          Comment


          • #6
            That is a regular shower drain that is normally used but 2 inches down that is a fernco if you loosen up the clamps that small piece of pipe and the remainder of the shower will come out. I have attached a picture of how the drain connects to the shower to help you. You need to take measurements to the center of the existing drain to see how much trouble it will be to install a new shower base and if the drain will need to be moved. The one thing to remember is that this is on a second floor and if this shower leaks how much damage is it going to do? If your not comfortable, call a plumber out he or she can set it and give you peace of mind and you can finish up the tile work

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            • #7
              Thanks jnaas2,

              I am going to see how much a plumber wants to set the pan up for me, but if it's too outrageous then I'll try it myself. Btw, when you measure for the pan, do you have to take in to count the drywall/cement board and tar paper (or whatever else there is)?

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              • #8
                The shower base is measured from stud to stud, they are usually a tight fit between the studs. I normally fur the wall out till its flush with the inside of the shower pan then install a vapor barrier usually plastic that goes all the way down to the rim of the shower base then the backer board is held up a 1/4 inch above the rim of the shower stall to keep the backer board from wicking water up. Most people think the concrete backer board will not hold water but it will, with the plastic behind it any moisture that gets thru the tile or grout will travel to the bottom of the backer board and be forced into the shower base. You can also go to www. schluter.com and check out there tile installation process

                Comment


                • #9
                  Have a look see at the link below...
                  John Bridge wrote the book on tile...

                  Schluter Kerdi Shower, Accessible, Mold-free, Leakproof
                  I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
                  Now I can Plumb!

                  For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
                  Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
                  Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks, I can see I will have a few questions before I actually start this project. I did a project a while back and had help from a handy man putting in a tub/shower. Actually he put in the tub and I tiled from there up. I remember putting green sheet rock and backer board, also using something called pre-mixed thinset. No problems with that set up so far.

                    But this thing with the shower pan has me bamboozled. When I took out the one piece fiberglass surround there was nothing under it. Now that I am going to put in a shower pan it looks like I have to do cement pre-sloap? Even if the put a already formed shower pan in? I'm confused???
                    I have a lot to learn before attempting this as I am a stickler for doing it right. Will need all your help. Thanks, will let you know when it's time, which will be pretty soon.....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      No!
                      You would use either a premanufactured base, or, make a base...

                      Either way you want to do the wall with the Kerdi that I linked above.

                      Personally I'd forget the manufactured base and do it up nice.
                      It's a lot easier than your thinking.
                      Check out that John Bridge Site!
                      I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
                      Now I can Plumb!

                      For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
                      Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
                      Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yes, I have looked at the Kerdi installation on the Bridge website. It doesn't look bad. The only thing that threw me is that I don't have any experience with cement/mortar and how to level it just right. I'd be afraid I'd level the base wrong and the pan would be screwed up. Also, this is in an upstairs condo and I don't have a large area to do much heavy mixing if that's necessary?? Also I'm concerned about setting the drain the right height and about the the connection to the waste pipe. I still want to have a plumber give me an estimate on him hooking that part up but I'm sure that will be pretty expensive. If I do this from scratch with pictures could you walk me through it? Another thing I just remembered, I have to get a shower door which I'm assuming should be measured out to see how high up the tiling needs to go?

                        I went to home depot but didn't see any Schluter/Kerdi there. But I was in a hurry so I can go back and ask.

                        Thanks for all the help.

                        Mike

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                        • #13
                          It's not so hard to install a shower stall. I did a custom install first time here at my house. I purchased a 2 mil vinyl shower base - really thick plastic almost feels like rubber. My sub floor is 3/4 inch mlb board. the cement/sand base is a three to one mix with enough water to make it a semi dry mix. this is spread over a quarter inch mesh screen which is fastened to the sub floor and pitched towards the drain. the drain is installed and bolted up through the plastic. the corners are glued flat in onto itself. the curb plastic goes over and down outside and glued to the frame. a cement is poured onto the plastic and pitched towards the drain and pounded into place with a 2x4 and a mallet. next day it was hard enough for the quickset for tile.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Sounds like if I do the pre-manufactured base I won't have to fuss with the mixing and leveling? Oh, I don't want to have to tile the floor btw. I just want to tile up from the shower pan ( pre-manf base). What about the shower door? At what point does it figure in to the mix?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              not having worked with a pre-manufactured base, I really don't know about a door. my old shower and base just used a shower curtain and rod.

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