changing faucet washer

[Redwood]

PB Blaster is another good one

[atlantis]

will try it! Wonder if I can find KROIL?

[HayZee518]

Probably is partially frozen. From the looks of the photo, the valve is made of brass. You can tell this because of the green and grey oxide on the valve body. brass is an alloy of copper and tin. copper almost always "greens over." use some penetrating oil and let it sit there. WD-40 works also. try to get some movement when you apply the penetrant. it'll work its way between the threads to where you can unscrew the bonnet. there's some other penetrant called KROIL - stinks to high heaven but it works great!

[atlantis]

Redwood:
As I have never had to touch this valve in the 15 years that I have lived here, you can understand that it is pretty firmly frozen, and does not want to move. When I torque the stem assembly, the whole valve wants to move.
Thanks again

[Redwood]

Most of the time they come undone exactly as HayZee described without having to hold anything.

[atlantis]

OK, sounds like that's the only approach. Very strange that there is nothing to really grip properly on this valve assembly.
Thanks for your patience.

[HayZee518]

so put the basin wrench on the threads under the sink and unscrew the two flats gland nut.

[atlantis]

underneath the sink porcelain is a locknut that screws right over the 1/2"npt threads. this is what holds the valve to the porcelain. you might get a helper to use a basin wrench from underneath to hold the valve body/locknut from turning.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Yes, there is a pair of 'locknuts', one beneath porcelain and one above porcelain, but neither of these are part of the valve assembly. They are only threaded onto the valve body to hold it in position. Gripping either of these with a wrench will not hold the valve body in order to counter-torque removing the valve stem.
I guess I'll just have to take all the connections off from beneath the sink so that I can safely hold the valve body without breaking the connections.
Any other suggestions?

[HayZee518]

underneath the sink porcelain is a locknut that screws right over the 1/2"npt threads. this is what holds the valve to the porcelain. you might get a helper to use a basin wrench from underneath to hold the valve body/locknut from turning.

[atlantis]

Hayzee;
the question is "what do I hold to safely counter-torque the valve assembly while I'm removing the valve-stem?"
As mentioned, everything below the slotted area on top is threaded, so I don't want to grab that with a wrench. Even in the valve assembly below the sink top, there isn't anything obvious for a wrench to be applied.

[HayZee518]

yeah, ok. open the valve partially with the knob and take the knob off. use an adjustable wrench and unscrew the thing with the two flats counter-clockwise. once its loose, open the valve fully and the stem will come out.

[atlantis]

Hayzee:
30 years old, not 1930's. I'm also familiar with 100 yr old acorn nuts, and this isn't one of them. I'm trying to disconnect the valve stem from the valve body----that's all. Don't need allen wrenches or anything else---- all I weant to do is get the valve open to replace the washer

[atlantis]

OK----not the greatest photo, but I hope it helps you help me!

[Redwood]

Why don't you post a picture?

We have even less chance of knowing than you.

But with a pic we might know exactly what you are talking about.

[HayZee518]

the "seat" is inside the valve body. the whole thing you are referring to is the valve stem. old faucets have an acorn shaped "gland nut" that goes over the stem and has a graphite or "o" ring packing, then the stem has the coarse valve sten threads that match the internal of the valve and finally the valve stem washer is held by one screw in the bottom of the stem. newer two valve stem faucets have the knob escutcheon, the knob, the screw which holds the knob to the stem, the knurled valve stem top, the hex or two flats that unscrew the stem from the valve body. the stem will have the coarse threaded portion and the stem washer at the bottom. again the "seat" has a hexagonal opening or square opening that takes an allen wrench or square wrench to remove the seat and replace. 1930's faucets didn't have replacement seats - you had to grind the seats flat with a seat resurfacer.