Painting Hardybacker

[reprosser]

I am putting in a shower in my shop. Studs are treated. Concrete floor with a depression and a drain for the shower. Nothing fancy. I plan to use hardybacker for the interior walls, but don't plan to tile.

I would like to fill the seams and paint with epoxy. Can I take a drywall "rockin" approach to the seams? What material should I use for mud?

[pushkins]

Nothing...full stop !!

First time I ever heard anyone wanting to attempt this.

Hardi backer board is NOT waterproof and WILL deteriorate with direct water contact.
backer board is intended to have either a mastic or a mortar adhesive applied to it and then tiles, the tiles shed almost all the moisture with a small amount sneaking through the grout lines, this is when the backer board comes into it's own.
Why bother even trying to think of a way to seal the joints, be much easier and far cheaper to by a cheap fiberglass surround.

[reprosser]

The shower space is large ~ 5 ft x 6 ft, so the usual surround won't fit.

Just looking for the least expensive way to get walls up in the shower.

First I have heard that water would deteriorate cement board, but that is why I posted the question - to learn

Would epoxy paint not be a moisture barrier? Was planning to use the same paint as will go on the concrete floor.

Open to other options...

[HayZee518]

because the shower space is so large, it would seem to me that a standard surrround wouldn't fit, you should be looking into a custom surround or extension panels to the original surround.

[Redwood]

It sounds like your shower plans need an upgrade...

I envision mold, mildew, and a mushroom farm growing out of that wall especially at the base...

[reprosser]

Maybe I am not providing enough clarity here.

This is a shop shower - not used daily, maybe not weekly, just occasionally. It won't be a wet area constantly (assuming I don't have leaks ) It also has a 9 ft ceiling with a lot of venting, so humidity should dissipate quickly.

As an example - If you have ever been to a state park or tourist park where they have showers, I have seen facilities where there a shower with concrete floor and walls that are painted. I have not noticed any mushrooms or lots of mold at them.

I am not trying to build a Better Homes & Garden bathroom - just a place where I can shower occasionally, or I can bring in items that might need to be hosed off. I was going to use green sheetrock for the room, but I found out that it was not recommended for shower areas. Concrete board was the next step, but if it won't work with the paint, then...?

I will do what needs to be done, but I don't have any experience building shower rooms, and don't want to spend any more than is needed to get the job done. It is not going to be a show room.

If you had a 5x6 room that just needed the basics for an occasional shower without anything fancy - what is the minimum needed?

Thanks - I do appreciate the feedback.

PS: The plumbing is run, and the exterior walls are up, but I have not started on the interior walls yet, so I am not locked in on a solution yet. I can post pictures if it will help.

[Redwood]

As an example - If you have ever been to a state park or tourist park where they have showers, I have seen facilities where there a shower with concrete floor and walls that are painted. I have not noticed any mushrooms or lots of mold at them.

Well then I would suggest that you closely mimic the state park shower design...

With the shower walls on posts not quite touching the floor...

A wide open floor plan where water will not routinely get between the 2X4 at the base of the framed wall and the floor...

And all the other features that keep them working...

If you don't I assure you it will be down and dirty a fungus paradise...

[pushkins]

If what you have is a 5x6 area why add any walls ?, just have a big open area with good floor slope to drain all the water quickly.

Years ago most surf beaches (in Australia) had showers built from cinder blocks that were heavily painted with epoxy paints, problem was the maintenance was never ending even on end showers that were seldom used. That's why most places now have stall walls with legs this allows the wall to drip dry with nowhere for moisture to gather.

Backer board was never designed for direct water contact like in situations your thinking about and it would without question make a great surface for mold etc...

Another option is like Hayzee suggested, most plastic surround kits are available with extension panels or you can buy just plain straight sections and use a good quality caulk in the corners.

[reprosser]

I think you are right - with the 5x6 area that is sunken a couple inches in the floor, the walls will probably never get much water. The wall with the shower head and knobs will be the one area that gets wet, and I can cover the hardiebacker there with tile or a surround panel.

[mrcaptainbob]

Shower walls...

Cover them with Formica. It can be purchased in five foot wide sheets. Bond it to the cement backer as you would to any other substrate. Use panel moldings for thin panels and seal them with urethane. Won't leak, won't mildew and is easy to clean. The whole surround would be four pieces, one for each wall, and the top edge is at five feet. There would be only the corner joints to seal.

[HayZee518]

IF there's a newspaper near you, take a ride down and ask them for used aluminum offset plates. these can be about the size of a double wide newspaper. tack these up on your studs over lapping the top sheet over the bottom and seal the nailholes with silicone.

[reprosser]

Now that's thinking out of box

If they are available cheap, I can probably find other uses for them too.

[paul52446m]

I am putting in a shower in my shop. Studs are treated. Concrete floor with a depression and a drain for the shower. Nothing fancy. I plan to use hardybacker for the interior walls, but don't plan to tile.

I would like to fill the seams and paint with epoxy. Can I take a drywall "rockin" approach to the seams? What material should I use for mud?

Hi Paul here. I am not a plumber, nor a wood craftsman, but years ago i did
sell epoxy. i am talking about the good stuff that 20 years ago it was $35.00
a gal. It was used on gym floors in the schools,walk in coolers floors, cement
floors, and we sold it to the state for there shower stalls. It would seal almost
any surface if put on right. Later Paul

[reprosser]

Paint is OK

I checked the Hardiebacker site and found this:

HardieBacker® 500 Cement Board for walls and floors delivers superior protection against moisture damage and mold growth. It contains no paper facing, which serves as a food source for mold, or gypsum, which can disintegrate with continuous moisture exposure. HardieBacker board is an ideal choice for wet area walls; its smooth surface may be painted, textured, wallpapered, or tiled.

So, painting should be an OK option. Still have not decided yet...