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drywall sections not flush at joints

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  • drywall sections not flush at joints

    The ongoing project that i am doing all my self has brought me to the drywall phase. After drywalling the entire bathroom with green board i notice now the some of the joints do notline up.

    should I sand, grind and otherwise make the surfaces flush, removing a bit of paper, and flat across the wall especially at the joints or simply MUD over the humps and shape?

    It's sometimes better to be lucky than smart.
    It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

  • #2
    First of all, allow me to mention that I am horrible with drywall.

    That being said, usually a combination works best. Making it line up flat and smooth will make your mudding job much easier. I guess there is a balance, such that you don't want to go through the trouble of making the drywall perfect, just enough to make the mudding easier. The more you have to fix, the more mud steps it will take.

    Then a few steps of mudding and sanding should even things out. You can apply the mud to a larger area, so that a gradual slope won't be noticed.

    Hope that helps!

    Try
    Try

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    • #3
      Hey man thanks! Is the paper backing for green board in areas that will not see any water real important to the integrity of the wallboard...I guess the paper does give it the strength right...So I wouln't want to sand away too much of the paper to smooth it out right? I like sorta the last bit about probably spreding more mud over a large area to some out the contour.....thanks man
      quote:Originally posted by Troy

      First of all, allow me to mention that I am horrible with drywall.

      That being said, usually a combination works best. Making it line up flat and smooth will make your mudding job much easier. I guess there is a balance, such that you don't want to go through the trouble of making the drywall perfect, just enough to make the mudding easier. The more you have to fix, the more mud steps it will take.

      Then a few steps of mudding and sanding should even things out. You can apply the mud to a larger area, so that a gradual slope won't be noticed.

      Hope that helps!

      Try
      It's sometimes better to be lucky than smart.
      It\'s sometimes better to be lucky than smart.

      Comment


      • #4
        I take it the board you're using is 1/2? If you match a factory edge to a cut edge you'll have a lot of mudding to do. Factory edge to factory edge requires mudding but the feather edge out will be about 14 inches wide. Factory to cut edge - build it up gradually and use nylon tape - the yellow stuff. Then feather it out from the cut edge.

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        • #5
          I'm FAR more careful now! The first time I did a minor drywall job I mistakenly used plaster of Paris. Found out ya' can't's sand's CEMENT!!
          Thanks for that fond memory......

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