Tile Shower Wall

[DKAudio]

I am re-doing our bathroom and got a Kohler Archer bath tub and then want to do a tile shower wall/surround. Is this the same process as a floor would be? Do you use a different kind of thinset or mortor since it will be wet a lot?

These are the correct steps right?

Durarock backer board
Thinset
Tile
Mortor
Seal

Am I missing anything?

What is a good way to cut the backer board, can you score/snap? Can I drive the special screw through it or do you need to pilot countersink?

Thanks

[The Builder]

The same thinset mortar for the floor you can use for the wall. They manufacture ones that are for both

[DKAudio]

Should I put a layer of something over the studs before I put the durarock on? Plastic or something?

What about cutting the cement board?

[The Builder]

If you don't feel comfortable with the thinset, then use one that is manufacturer recomemded. I use MY thinset

[DKAudio]

I deleted my post because I read more and the guy who said not to use "Thinset" was incorrect, he meant to say not to use Mastic which I already knew. I am just going to use versabond from HD. Thanks

[pushkins]

Mastic is for walls, thinset is for floors, thinset can also be used for walls. but never mastic for floors or anywhere near fireplaces.
Get the flexi versa bond from HD it's about $28 a bag.

[DKAudio]

I've used the FlexBond before but since I'm using Durock and installing correctly wouldn't VersaBond be fine and I could save some money? I thought FlexBond was when you were going over a typically "none appropriate" surface, i.e. plywood, vinyl, etc.

[pushkins]

Yep you can, I always work on the thought philosophy of, that for the extra $10 you get a product that is superior in bond and much more flexible when applying it in all uses. The VersaBond will work fine.

[DKAudio]

True, $10 is cheap at that point and I think I still have 1/2 a bag or more left too.

I came to a delema...I am tiling the shower wall and the bathroom floor. The tub and toilet are white, vanity is more of a cherry. The walls are painted a semi-dark gray. First, should I use the same tile for the floor and shower wall or would you split it up? The tile we picked out is fairly dark. Attached is a pic of a similar tile, ours may be a little darker...


My other question is I wanted to do the floor diagnal because I like the look. The shower wall however I do not. The reason for this is mostly because I am not using bullnose or anything, I just want to have the edge be of the 12X12 tile and I don't want to rough cut edge revealed. Do you think it would look odd doing the floor diagnal and not the shower wall if it's the same tile?

[HayZee518]

it's really a personal preference call. use your computer's "paint" program and make a diagonal "mosaic" to see how it would look and go from there. go look at a few tile sites and see what designs look like in real time photos.
take a look here: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/floor-tile-patterns.html

[pushkins]

I personally like diagonal floors, especially in smaller rooms as it makes the room look bigger. Diagonal walls are another beast unto themselves, while they do look god they are much more difficult to do right.
If it were me I'd most definitely have two different colors for floor and wall, unless you like the monochromatic look, everything will start to blend together. Most often when a dark tile color remains the same floor to wall you get a "cave" look to your bathroom, especially as you have dark grey walls as well.
Have you looked at Schluter strips to end your tiles ?. These strips are usually metal, various colors and make the exposed end of the tiles look much better, you don't see the end of the tile, also makes a great idea if you do decide to set your wall on the diagonal as the cut edge is hidden by the Schluter strip, the strips are placed on the wall and mortared in with the tile glue at the same time you set the tiles....really easy.
They are available at Lowe's and Home Depot or any good tiling shop.

[DKAudio]

I have used those before, however...another issue is that the 1/2" edge of the Durock is going to be exposed on the two walls where the alcove starts. This was due to shimming the tub out and then building out the studs so the Durock goes over the flange of the tub. Once all said and done the whole piece of Durcock will be exposed on the edge where it meets the finished wall. I was thinking about getting a plastic L strip of some sort, sticking one end under the tile and on top of the Durock, the other end would hide the Durock then I would caulk the seam and painting it to match the walls. I havent thought of anything better but am worried this will look cheap.

Also, when I do the floor I am going to put a bed under the Durock, should I use the Flexbond for that or are you supposed to use something different?

Thanks

[pushkins]

No, for the backer board bed just use the cheaper thinset (about $10 a bag), basically this is only to bond the backer board to a sub floor surface. While this bond between backer board and sub floor isn't "that" great it is enough to stabilize the two together.

[DKAudio]

Sounds good, would mortar or cement work as well? I have a few bags of each already. Thanks for all the help!

[pushkins]

I wouldn't recommend either mortar or cement for this use, while they are very similar to tile mortar they offer absolutely no flexibility at all, even the cheapest tile thin set offers a little flexibility.