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Liftmaster Help - motor, ckt board or ??

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  • Liftmaster Help - motor, ckt board or ??

    I have a Liftmaster 2220-267 1/2hp screw drive - ckt. board 41A5389-1C. We had a power failure due to local tornado. When we returned home and going to bed (no power) I secured the garage door to the rail so it couldn't be lifted. I also thought that I released the arm. It seems that later that night the power came back on, the arm engaged and tried to lift the door. When I awoke I heard a "hum" from the motor I suspect so it likely had been trying to lift the door for a few hours. By the time I reached the unit it was,,, well it wasn't humming anymore. The lights work via the remote and wall switch but the motor doesn't engage. The top of the opener also was warm/hot .

    Questions: 1. What fried? Ckt board? If so, is there a difference in the 1, 1C, 1D or 1E boards that I see for sale ro were they just later versions? 2. Could the motor be fried? If so, I think a new opener is in order. 3. Anything else likely gone bad? 4. If a new opener is the solution, will the new series - 3240 fit my rails? The new unit comes w/ a one piece rail and I can't tell if the slide is the same fitment or not. The coupling/rail sprocket look the same on paper at least.

    Thanks for any input!

  • #2
    Well having taken the unit down and removing the cover ...it seems to work. But now, ....see my next post please.
    Last edited by toomanyhobbies; 04-19-2011, 06:22 AM.

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    • #3
      There's probably a high temperature switch on the motor that's probably why it stopped working until it cooled down and now works.
      If you jump across the screws for the sensors, I assume you are talking about the sensors that go in the footpath of the door so somebody walks under the door it trips, if so you can jump across jump the screws were the wires attached on the motor and it should work without the censors.

      Not quite sure what you're talking about by the worm gear sensor

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      • #4
        Took a much closer look just now, the motor isn't / won't reverse. It had caused the sensor (worm gear that moves the contact to the high/low stop) to travel past the down stop and keep going rather than shutting the motor off. I pulled that gear out and re-centered it then plugged it in. All good. Then I pressed the remote and the motor starts and traveled to the down stop. It did stop. Then when I press the remote again to simulate raising the door the motor turned in the same direction (down) and ran the sensor past the stop point. I then removed the entire sensor assy. and the motor runs fine but only in one direction no matter if I plug it in or use the remote.

        Sensor board worth $80 to try? Any input on which version to get or if I must buy the version that I have?

        The worm gear I refer to us a travel limit "switch" that has contacts on the raised and lowered section - as the motor turns this rides on a worm gear from the motor. When it reaches the limit "Up" it hits a contact and stops / reverses the motor for the next use.
        Last edited by toomanyhobbies; 04-19-2011, 07:42 AM.

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        • #5
          any of the # letter combonations would work, they change the #s a little as they modify software a little.

          make sure all the wires are attached correctly, you may just need an RPM board, which is cheaper and smaller. it has a serial cable that attaches to it and a fan wheel that spins though it.
          There is probaly a little led light near the learn button beneath the red wire input from the wallbutton. it will blink x number of times then pause and repeat, this will identify some issues, but all boards could have been fried if you had a lighning strike or surge, even the wallbutton and eyes could be affected. Ryan

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