GE GTW330ASK0WW Top load Wash Machine growling noise on slow down from spin cycle.

[Adam/]

Bearing like noise as machine starts to slow down from spin cycle, The noise decreases as tub slows down to a stop. No noise when actually on spin cycle or any other cycle just after spin finishes and tub is slowing down. Under side of machine, belt and floor is covered in a black grease like substance. Can not duplicate noise by spinning tub by hand




Tried hand spinning machine with bottom belt cover and with belt both on and off. Unable to duplicate noise. Bottom smooth pulley has a lot of side to side play. Pulled off pulley and same play in actual shaft side to side.

[machinist]

Hi there!
From what you're describing and based on the pictures, it really sounds like the tub bearing or shaft assembly might be going bad.

The black grease-like substance splattered on the bottom and around the belt area is usually a sign of a failing bearing or seal. Over time, as the machine spins, grease gets thrown out, and that seems to be what's happening here. Since the noise only happens as the tub slows down and not during the actual spin, it's a strong clue that there's play in the bearing or shaft. That play becomes more noticeable when the spin slows and the tub is coasting to a stop.

You also mentioned there's a lot of side-to-side play in the bottom pulley, and the shaft still moves even after removing the pulley. That shaft should be pretty solid. If it's moving, the bearing is likely worn out or the internal part of the mode shifter or transmission is starting to fail.

Just to narrow things down further, has the washer ever leaked or dealt with a lot of heavy or unbalanced loads? And how old is the machine?

If you're handy with repairs and it's out of warranty, you might need to replace the mode shifter or possibly the full transmission, depending on how GE built this model. Some GE washers don’t let you replace just the bearing without doing a full assembly swap.

[Adam/]

Thank you for the reply. The washer is probably at least 15yrs old, it has never leaked and is not currently leaking. The transmission looks to be really inexpensive @ $115 and comes complete with tub seal so I will just replace it along with the clutch gear and driven pulley. Hopefully the agitator bolt lets loose easily as I really fought that bolt on my oldest daughter when I replaced her tub seal.

[machinist]

You're very welcome, and thanks for the update! Sounds like a solid plan, especially since the transmission comes with the tub seal and isn’t too pricey. At 15 years old, you've definitely gotten good use out of the washer, so replacing the transmission, clutch gear, and pulley together makes sense and should give it a second life.

Hopefully the agitator bolt cooperates this time. Those can be a real pain when they seize up. A little penetrating oil and some patience usually helps. If it really won't budge, a breaker bar or impact driver might make the job easier without damaging anything.

If this were a newer washer, I'd suggest digging a little deeper to rule things out first. But at 15 years old, replacing those parts is a smart and cost-effective repair.

Keep us posted on how it goes. Would be great to hear if the repair solves the noise and keeps the machine running strong. Good luck with the tear-down!

[Adam/]

Ok the parts are in and the first load has run and no more noise! I do have a question. There was a metal shield that was on the end of the transmission enclosing the motor but the new factory transmission did not have any holes in it to reinstall it. Does it matter? Not sure of its purpose but here are a couple of photos to better explain where it was on the old transmission.

[machinist]

Thanks for the update, and really glad to hear the washer is running quietly now.

About the metal shield, it was most likely there just to offer some extra protection for the motor area, maybe from splashes or any grease from the old transmission. Since the new transmission doesn’t have holes for it, GE probably changed the design and decided it wasn’t needed anymore.

If everything fits well, runs smoothly, and nothing seems exposed or at risk, you should be fine leaving it off. It’s always a good idea to keep an eye on it for the first few loads just to make sure everything stays clean and dry underneath.

[Adam/]

Just a wrinkle in my repair. The transmission is doing just fine but the spin light started to flash so I read up on it and the most common is the belt slipping causing a slower rotation of the tub which is picked up by the speed sensor. I checked the belt and it looked fine but order a replacement anyways. I was going to replace it when I did the transmission but forgot to include it in my order and did not want to pay the freight charge again at that time when it looked fine.
Well the new one showed up and I went to install it and boy was it hard to install as in getting it to stretch around the pulley. I checked it against the one I took of and it was a little shorter but yet still had the same part # on it. I got it on and have ran the washer with no more flashing spin light so my thought is that even though the belt looked fine it had stretched and that is why it was slipping. Next I tackled the dryer but will make a separate post on that.

[adambarnes]

Thanks for the detailed insight! Sounds like the bearing or transmission is definitely on its way out, especially with that grease splatter and shaft play. I’ll look into whether this model allows individual bearing replacement or if a full assembly is needed.

[Adam/]

Thanks for the detailed insight! Sounds like the bearing or transmission is definitely on its way out, especially with that grease splatter and shaft play. I’ll look into whether this model allows individual bearing replacement or if a full assembly is needed.

Thanks but the transmission is already replaced and doing fine. I was mostly just sharing that even though a belt may look fine that it could stretch and lead to slipping.

[machinist]

Nice job tracking that down. Belts can definitely stretch over time, even if they still look okay. That little bit of stretch is probably what caused the tub to spin slower and made the spin light flash. The new belt being harder to put on means it’s tighter, which is a good thing.