GE Arctica Refridgerator, PSS26MSRB SS, water tray leaking, and other questions

[Jason B]

** it's set at 60 psi. **

As long as it is working up to that it should be more than sufficient pressure.

Did you ever actually test the water pressure coming out of the the fridge's water
supply line? I can't see the problem being anywhere else.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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Another update. I just took off the saddle valve to look at it and it IS the self piercing type. I took it off, then put it back on, still drips at the fridge of course.

Tomorrow, I'm buying this:

Part Details - SEA Saddle drill tap valve, part number: STV2D (any tip on how to keep metal shavings from getting into the pipe?)

Now, the only test I did weeks ago, was seeing if there was pressure to fill a bucket, but that's it. Tell me exactly what I need to do to test it by your method?

Am I on the right track now?

[Dan O.]

** any tip on how to keep metal shavings from getting into the pipe? **

Very little should go into the pipe, most should be forced out via the bit's grooves. But you could always run
water through it into a bucket first before connecting it to the fridge just in case.

** Tell me exactly what I need to do to test it by your method? **

Place one end of the water line into a 1-quart container. (1 US quart = 32 US fluid ounces = 0.91 Liters (L))
Time how long it takes to fill. If the container takes longer than 9 seconds to fill, the water pressure is too
low for most appliance water valves to function properly and will likely cause problems.


Maybe a before and after test to see the actual difference?

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Jason B]

Time how long it takes a specific amount of water to flow though it, then calculate how much would flow in a minute.

Dan O

Ok, now "where" do I do this test at??? I know that the pipe the saddle valve is on, is the pipe that comes from the kitchen faucet. Do I do the test there? Or do I remove the water line from the back of the fridge and do it there?

[Dan O.]

Water pressure *to the fridge*

** do I remove the water line from the back of the fridge and do it there? **

Since it is the water pressure getting to the fridge's water valve that is important, yes.
Although if you're replacing the saddle valve anyway, it is academic. Maybe for your own
(and others) curiosity checking it before and after the change might be interesting?

BTW. If you're installing the new valve in a different location than the original, only install
it on the top side of a horizontal pipe or the side of a vertical pipe. Mounting on the underside
can allow sediment to accumulate it it more easily leading to possible water flow problem
again in the future.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Great, thanks again. I really appreciate all your quick replies. I'm knew at this, but feel I've learned a lot. I'm a car guy, not a plumber, but like to do things myself sometimes. I do thank you.

I'm going to put the new valve on the same "vertical pipe" that the old one was on, and just am going to make the hole bigger with a 1/4" drill bit. Putting it in the same spot as the old one show below:



It's funny how small the hole was that the self piercing valve made. Super small.

I'm going to try putting the NEW drill type valve on later tonight, and will see if I can measure the gpm before and after.

[Dan O.]

** It's funny how small the hole was that the self piercing valve made. **

No it's not. It causes a lot of headaches with appliances even though most installation
instructions specifically state NOT to use such valves.

Let us know how you make out.

Dan O.

[Jason B]

Ok. Now I'm about to go crazy.

Tested with the old self piercing valve, and it took 4 min and 50 sec to fill the huge 5 gallon bucket from the small coper line on the back of the fridge.

Drilled the hole to 1/4", and then did the test. 2min and 50 sec! No joke, it was double the speed.



Put it all back together, and it still drips, same thing as before. I don't get it. The water pressure coming out of the tube was super hard, night and day, but it still drips.

Here is the new drill valve in place.



Wasn't sure how much I was supposed to thread the valve into the first bracket that the rubber piece sits behind. I twisted it in maybe 3 turns, and the shaft barely sticks into the copper pipe. It doesn't leak. Wasn't sure if I needed to thread it all the way into that bracket, see pic. Again, nothing leaks on the valve.

Not sure what to do now. I just can't figure it out. What are the chances of the brand new water fill valve being bad. I tried the old one, and the new one, same drips at the dispenser.

[Dan O.]

** What are the chances of the brand new water fill valve being bad. **

It does happen occasionally but I'd have to ask myself what are the chances of both the
new and original valves being defective in the very same way? I'd say that is fairly unlikely.

** Put it all back together, and it still drips **

Does it drip from the dispenser continually or just for a short time after use?

Dan O.

[Jason B]

Pretty much continually. For ex, after filling up an 8 ounce glass, it will drip 3-4 times. Then drip a few times an hour. Let 5 hours go by, or wake up in the morning, and you have a puddle. I can then wipe the tray clean, come back in 30 min, and there will be more drips.

I was on another forum and a guy mentioned the water tank inside the fridge side possibly flexing or breathing?

As another test I removed the water filter and replaced it with the factory twist in plug. Still drips the same.

(on another note, I have called serveral repair places and noone has any idea, as they don't get this involved, or at least they don't want to. I need to fly you out here. You close to PA? )

[Dan O.]

Water reservoir tank expansion

** I was on another forum and a guy mentioned the water tank inside the fridge side possibly
flexing or breathing? **

If the leak/dripping only occurred after use, I was going to suggest that. It is a common
occurrence with the molded plastic water reservoirs like used on your fridge design. Many
manufacturers are going away from such a tank altogether in favour of just a coil of tubing
(see the following link).

LINK > Frigidaire Replacement Kit for Molded Water Reservoir

GE is still supplying molded plastic tanks for their fridges AFAIK which on your model
should be part number WR17X11440

LINK > GE Molded Plastic Water Reservoir (*Example only* - not for your model)


JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Some updates... I replaced the electronic valve at the back of the fridge, same exact issue. Replaced the self piercing valve on the water line with a drill type. The pressure was doubled when testing it before the fridge. Same issue, same leak.

I also replaced the water tank with plastic tubing for the water supply and it still drips after filling a glass. Looks like I have to just live with it dripping 5-10 times after a glass is filled?

[Dan O.]

I replaced the [water] valve at the back of the fridge... Replaced the self
piercing valve on the water line with a drill type... I also replaced the water
tank with plastic tubing for the water supply and it still drips after filling a glass.

No kinks in the water line to the fridge? No inline filters before connecting to
the fridge's water valve? No sediment screen in the water line where it
attaches to the fridge's water valve?

I can't think of anything else that would cause it, sorry. Maybe someone else
will make a suggestion?

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Nope. It's just one of those annoying thing I'm going to have to live with I'm definitely going to put the water tank back in!!! When I eliminated it and just put the plastic tubing in, the water doesn't stay cold like it did in that big tank!

[Dan O.]

When I eliminated it and just put the plastic tubing in, the water
doesn't stay cold like it did in that big tank!

I don't know why that would be. They're both subject to the same refrigerator
compartment temperature and should have the same temperature water in them
... once given the chance to get down to temperature.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Because that water tank holds like 40 ounces of "chilled" water in it, vs the tubing I ran to replace it probably only holds a few ounces of that "chilled" water.