GE Arctica Refridgerator, PSS26MSRB SS, water tray leaking, and other questions

[Jason B]

I moved into a house that has this refridgerator in it. GE Profile PSS26MSRB SS - made in 2004 I think.

I've noticed that if there is any water laying in the water tray, it will LEAK under the trim of the dispenser, see these pics:





1) Not sure what is invlolved to fix this? Cost?
Also, I notice when the motor turns on/off to maintain the temperature, it's a little loud. I can manually make this motor turn on/off but pressing the Turbo cool button, see video here:

http://www.burtmanindustries.com/ima...z/ge_turbo.MPG

2) Is this normal for this unit?

3) Also, I've noticed that the light for turno always stays on, but when you press Turbo, it gets brighter, but never goes off.

[Dan O.]

Model number incorrect?

** GE Profile PSS26MSRB SS **

I'm afraid I can not find a listing for that exact model number (note bolded character in question above).
If this is not a Canadian model, please double check it.

** I've noticed that if there is any water laying in the water tray, it will LEAK under the trim of the dispenser **

Any cracks in it?

** motor turns on/off to maintain the temperature, it's a little loud. Is this normal for this unit? **

It sounds too loud to me. My guess is that there is likely a problem with the motor.

** the light for turbo always stays on, but when you press Turbo, it gets brighter, but never goes off. **

Maybe a short in the wiring or a problem in that mechanism's electronic control? I myself have never come
across that symptom on one of GE's fridge's myself. It would have to be investigated.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
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[Jason B]

Maybe this will help?



Ok, I think I found the issue with why it's leaking. After filling a glass of water up, if you walk away and come back 3-4 hours later, there is a decent sized puddle in the tray. It seems it will drip like once an hour from the water tube. Any ideas?

[Dan O.]

No listing

**Maybe this will help? **

What you posted definitely looks correct. I don't know why it isn't
listed in any of the part lookup sites. They have PSS26MSRA...,
PSS26MSRC... and PSS26MSRD..., etc. but none with "B".

** It seems it will drip like once an hour from the water tube. Any ideas? **

That will be the water valve at the back of the fridge not closing tightly.
Such a symptom could be caused by a defective water fill valve or not
enough water pressure getting to that valve.

LINK > Water fill valve for PSS26MSRA... and PSS26MSRC...

Lack of pressure could be caused by a plugged sediment screen (if installed)
in the water line at the valve, a kinked water line to the fridge or use of a
'self piercing' saddle valve on the house water pipe for the fridge's supply line
or any kind of saddle valve mounted on the underside of a horizontal pipe.

Only a drill type saddle valve should be used for a refrigerator water supply
(if not a regular plumbing valve) and only mounted on the side of a vertical
pipe or the top of a horizontal pipe.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

That will be the water valve at the back of the fridge not closing tightly.
Such a symptom could be caused by a defective water fill valve or not
enough water pressure getting to that valve.

Hey Dan. I've been so busy, just getting back to this now. If I order the
new valve from your site and this wasn't the issue, can I return it?

[Dan O.]

Checked?

One thing, the site I linked to is a vendor, not myself. I do not sell anything.

2. Normally electrical parts are not returnable once installed. You'd have to
check the particular vendor's return policy.

3. Usually everything else should be checked first before just replacing a
part hoping it helps. If everything else was correct only then moving on
to replace a suspect part would usually be done.


Have you checked any of the things I mentioned??


Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Ohh, ok. Yea, I check what you mentioned and earlier today I removed that valve switch assembly. I shook it over my sink for little and installed it back in. No dripping after filling a glass. Did this 5-6 times, and no dripping. Normally as soon as I'd fill a glass, within 10 seconds it would drip. BUT, 3 hours later when I tried using it again, it's now dripping after filling a glass. Argh.


Also, I just did some more digging and was told this:

"low pressure will stop the valves from opening but not closing. The valves are shut by a spring plunger assembly in the selonoid, so replace the valves".

I think this may be the case. I'm assuming when I replace the valves that spring plunger assembly is built inside that valve part too?

[Dan O.]

"low pressure will stop the valves from opening but not closing."

I'm afraid that is an incorrect statement when it comes to appliance water valves.
Their internal diaphragm requires a minimum water pressure behind it to keep it closed
fully. Most appliance water valves require at least 20 psi water pressure to them
to function properly.

I check what you mentioned and earlier today

How did you check the water supply's saddle valve or does it use a regular household
plumbing tap?

Use of a self-piercing saddle valve is by far the most frequent cause of your symptom
which is why most manufacturers specifically state not to use them in their product
installation instructions.

I assume the valve spring plunger assembly is built inside that valve part too?

It comes fully assembled, yes.

I think this may be the case.

It's definitely one possibility. Good luck!

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Thanks again. I test by disconnecting the line to the fridge and testing the flow in a bucket of water, which is seemed fine.

What's your opinion of me removeing the valves and shaking it, then installing it back in, and the drip stopped for a while. Does that mean anything?

I've so busy lately I haven't really messed with it until today.

[Dan O.]

What's your opinion of me removing the valves and shaking it, then installing
it back in, and the drip stopped for a while.

Coincidence. Maybe it dislodged some internal obstruction temporarily?

BTW. Shaking many appliance parts can damage them. It is usually best to avoid it.

Does that mean anything?

Not from a service standpoint, no.

testing the flow in a bucket of water, which is seemed fine.

That's not really a "test", just an observation which is relative at best. A test would
be timing how long it took a specific amount of water to flow through it and then
calculating the PSI to make sure the rate was (preferably much) higher than the
minimum usually necessary for the such valve. 20 PSI is likely the absolute minimum
the valve needs to function properly but many fridges with built-in water filters need
35 PSI or better water pressure to them.

Even if the water pressure was borderline, replacing the fridge's water fill valve
might alleviate the symptoms... for the immediate present. You can then just
worry about the rest the next time it acted up as such problems only get worse,
never better when left on their own.

But I suggest you do a job once and do it right!

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Ok, here is the latest. I ordered the new electric water valve that you posted and it came in today.


(They looked almost identical, except the new valve had a longer mounting plate, and some kind plastic shroud around the top)

I installed it, crossed my fingers, it still leaks! : ) I read all your replies again. I could never get to that valve in the basement to check to see if it was a drilll type or self piercing. I had called the previous owner who built the house months ago, and was told it was a drilll type.

I removed some of the drop ceilng panels to try to find this thing to see for myself. Also, I noticed a KINK in the line, right before the shutoff valve. I cut out the kink, and made the line go straight into the valve:



This seemed to fix the leak, which led me to believe this kink caused the issue. So, as a test I then put the old electric valve back in, and it leaked again. So, I thought maybe it was a combination of the kink and the old electric valve. SO, lastly, I put the new electric valve back in, and now it's still leaking again! I checked all connections, swaped them both out a few times, and it's still leaking. Argh.

Here you can see what happens after filling a big glass of water: video I made of leak, .mpg

I really don't know how to tell if the valve in the basement is a self pieceing or not. Maybe these pics will help you. Also, I'm on a Well here, and the well tank has 25 gpm written on it, which I thought was pretty good, as most people in this neighborhood get 8-15.

Suggestions?

Also, here is a pic of the back of the fridge.

[Jason B]

Also, another note. The water filter inside the fridge is a "gwf". I saw there is a newer filter out called the "mwf". I haven't change the gwf flter as the previous owner had the water turned off on the Fridge for the 2 years he lived in the house. So, yea that gwf filter has been in there for two years, but there wasn't water going through it until I moved in 6 months ago, so I think.

[Dan O.]

The water filter is in line after the main fridge's water valve so even IF it needed replacing
it shouldn't create your symptom.

I can not tell what type of saddle valve that is either.

** ...has 25 gpm written on it **

Hopefully it is working that well because that pressure is borderline to begin with for a
refrigerator water valve's operation.

Sorry but I have no other ideas. I would think either the water supply pressure is not high
enough or the saddle valve might be the problem.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[Jason B]

Thanks. I also just found out that I have a contstant pressure pump for the well, and it's set at 60 psi.

[Dan O.]

** it's set at 60 psi. **

As long as it is working up to that it should be more than sufficient pressure.

Did you ever actually test the water pressure coming out of the the fridge's water
supply line? I can't see the problem being anywhere else.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~