Wiring a Twin Flourescent Light

[hairykiore]

Hi...I purchased a Twin Flourescent Light fitting some years ago on auction and have decided to put it in my work room .... BUT I do not know how to wire it....So I have attached two photos (one of each end of the fitting ) and hopefully a member can tell me how I wire it up ...Thanks...

[HayZee518]

ballast

there's a wiring diagram printed on the ballast, follow that.
those two circular gizmos are starters, they go into those two sockets.
this type of fixture is called a trigger start ballast.

[hairykiore]

What Diagram ?

The so called diagram on the ballast is meaningless to me ....If I could follow that I would not be seeking help on this forum...I have 4 wires ???? I presume one is a negative and one a positive to the electricity ......??? Whats the other two for.....We are talking about electricity here and I want to be absolutely clear in my mind what I am doing here and not relying on an unreadable diagram ...Thanks Hk

[HayZee518]

ballast

take a picture of the diagram on the ballast and send it to me. I'll tell you exactly how it's wired.
what you have is a non conventional ballast.
most american ballasts are color coded. black, white blue red etc. in america green is exclusively used as a ground wire but in your case don't connect it up yet.

[hairykiore]

Photos As Required

take a picture of the diagram on the ballast and send it to me. I'll tell you exactly how it's wired.
what you have is a non conventional ballast.
most american ballasts are color coded. black, white blue red etc. in america green is exclusively used as a ground wire but in your case don't connect it up yet.

Hi Photos are attached of the two ballasts...BtW I am not in America but I am sure it will not be a factor...hk

[HayZee518]

fluorescent wiring

attached is a wiring diagram for your particular ballast. printed on the ballast it says 220 V 50 Hz.
If your mains are 60Hz, this fixture will burn up in a short time. because the ballast is rated 50Hz.
The starter is in series with one side of the bulb socket which may be a screw connection or a push in wire terminal [as shown on my diagram]
One other terminal of the bulb socket goes to the ballast, the other bulb socket terminal goes to the LINE. the remaining wire from the ballast goes to your NEUTRAL

[hairykiore]

I think I have it...

Hi..Thanks ..I think I have it .. The starters just push in and turn ......my supply is 230v 50 hz.....Hk

[HayZee518]

lighting

ok, I'm glad it worked out. I did track where you are - New Zealand - time difference you know.
How come you guys still running 50 cycle?

[hairykiore]

You are right...

Yes you got the country ..right at the bottom near the south pole?? the a*se of the world..as for 50hz ..I do not know..... Funny how the short wires confused me in fact if I could work out how the wire is actually held in the tube holders I would remove and replace with longer wires ...as it is I will have to use 1/2 dozen wire connectors .....the ballast short wires are no problem as they they are held by screws .....these are extremely cheap plastic things but with a lot of ingenuity put into how they fit together ....Cheers Hk

[HayZee518]

power

In the US and Canada most of the power generated is 60Hz [cycles per second] Our voltages vary from a 24 volt machine control to a 120 volt control and utilization of 120, 240, 480, 575 or 600 volt. Larger pumps etc operate at 4160 and 13,800 volts three phase.
In Europe it is also 60 Hz but in some places it is still 50 Hz as in your neck of the woods.
I like the concept of using 220 or 230 volts for utilization equipment within a house hold. For one thing it eliminates one wire size [American] 14 gauge.
With an increase of voltage, wire sizes are one half the 120 volt requirement.
As voltage increases, current decreases by one half and wire sizes are also reduced.
In Europe you determine wire sizes in mm by current draw of a circuit. If a circuit draws 10 amps the equipment is wired for 10 amps. Drop this figure to, say 6 amps, and a wire size adjustment is made for 6 amp.
I have rewired machinery made in the Netherlands and shipped over here [US] because of burning up of conductors because of objectionable current increases.

[hairykiore]

Apparantly I am no Electrician?

Hi...I wired up the unit yesterday and put it up today ...and no light..??? I already have a single unit up and going so I tested both bulbs in it and they are alright so tomorrow I will take it back down (which is difficult on my own) and I will recheck how I have wired it.....If I cannot find where I have gone wrong I hope you do not mind if I take a photo and post it for you to look at....At least sparks never came shooting out? Thanks Hk.

[hairykiore]

Does the Ballast have a neutral side?

I am wondering if the Ballast has a neutral and a live side? Hk

[HayZee518]

bsallast

shouldn't matter. the ballast is just a coil wired in series in your circuit. look at my diagram again

[hairykiore]

I am all go...

Yes I rechecked your diagram and rewired it again ..I needed another short length of wire ??? and it has now burst into life...BUT I do not know where I went wrong in my initial wireup....Would help with less white wires on the fitting....and I have had to back the unit with a board to stop the fitting from twisting??? but its going and thats the main thing although a bulb is fluttering so do not know how long it will last ....Cheers .Hk

[HayZee518]

the way things work

yeah the fixture is made of plastic so it will twist. a wooden backing is ok.
Now, the way it works: Inside the fluorescent tube at both ends is a filament just like in a regular bulb. this is connected to the two pins that comes out the tube. also inside the tube is a small droplet of liquid mercury. the white part of the tube is phosphorus coating on the glass.
The starter has in it a capacitor and a glass tube that contains a bi-metallic switch.
when you turn on the power, the elements at both ends of the tube heat up and vaporize the mercury into a conductive gas. this gas ionizes or conducts in the presence of the gas and glows, exciting the phosphorus and creates ultraviolet light. ultraviolet light is invisible but makes the phosphorus glow to visible light.
after a delay the bi-metallic switch opens and being that the current path is through the ionized gas and the high voltage produced by the ballast continues to glow, the light stays on.
Now the matter of flickering. what you have is called a "cold rolling" tube. Once its heated, it won't flicker. shut the power off then back on. It shouldn't flicker.