Wiring 3 new bucket lights in kitchen

[mr.B]

Hi,
Hopefully my goal here is achievable fairly easy with my existing wiring.. I am new to home improvements and am looking to remove my current lighting and install 3 of the bucket led type lights that recess in the drywall.. Currently I have a 5" or so hole and an 8' fluroscent fixture (all encased by a hideous 1970's "box" in the ceiling). I don't even know how to explain what I have, it is just very ugly. So I am tearing out this whole "box" and the fluorescent light an I would like to install these bucket lights.

Does this sound doable? I seems to be the only light on the circuit so I was hoping to be able to just run wire to each box and thats it? Hoping to also install a dimmer switch in the wall as well.

[HayZee518]

new lights

you are going to have to find a retro fit can light that will utilize your existing "hole."
I'll do some searching and see what I can come up with. I had a guy in another forum that had a similar problem.
First make sure you know which circuit feeds those existing lights. Mark it at the panel.
Is there an existing wall switch?

[mr.B]

Well, I only have the one hole, so I figured I would just patch that hole and then make new holes were I want the cans... I am in the process of texturing all the ceilings right now so I figure I would like to get all this stuff figured out before hand. (I am just moving into a new place).

Yes there is an existing wall switch, it has two switches on for the kitchen light and one for the garage.

I tried to post a link but I cannot yet... Sylvania 70734 is what I was looking at. Is this about what I need?

[HayZee518]

retrofit cans

The lamp kit you have quoted is just for the LED. You need an old work light fixture.
I have two attached items. One is the recessed can, the other is the LED insert for the can.
check on specs for a dimmer BEFORE you install the LED assembly.
Some are compatible many are not.

[mr.B]

It seems these LEDs are newer on the market. Would you recommend them over an incandescent type?


One thing I am unsure on is can I run the existing wiring to the closest junction box, and then "piggyback" the wire to the other two? Or do I need to run seperate wiring to each light box.
Thanks, trying to learn basics.

[HayZee518]

can lights

once you locate and bore the holes for the cans, daisy chain the wiring from one fixture to another. the last one in your run [or the first one] will go to the switch. connect all [line in to line out and fixture wire], line in to line out and fixture wire, and so forth.
answer to your question.
incandescent has been around for ages. installing a dimmer for incandescents is easier because of less variables. dimmers chop the ac into pulsating dc to operate a triac within to afford the dimming.
LEDs require an internal transformer to reduce the current to a usable level to operate the LEDs. Dimmers don't like transformers.
That is why I suggest you inquire of different manufacturers in case you want to retrofit your cans for LED lamps.

[mr.B]

once you locate and bore the holes for the cans, daisy chain the wiring from one fixture to another. the last one in your run [or the first one] will go to the switch. connect all [line in to line out and fixture wire], line in to line out and fixture wire, and so forth.
answer to your question.
incandescent has been around for ages. installing a dimmer for incandescents is easier because of less variables. dimmers chop the ac into pulsating dc to operate a triac within to afford the dimming.
LEDs require an internal transformer to reduce the current to a usable level to operate the LEDs. Dimmers don't like transformers.
That is why I suggest you inquire of different manufacturers in case you want to retrofit your cans for LED lamps.

Last dumb question, line in to line out. fixture wire. What exactly does this mean.

I found a nice kit at home depot. They are about 50$ for the fixture w/trim ring and LED. Sounds like a pretty reasonable price. is 14 gauge sufficient for the 3 lights?

[HayZee518]

can lights

14 gauge is sufficient for the lighting. a lot of houses being wired use #12 romex throughout even for lighting. I find it more difficult to shove #12 into a box than #14.
just make sure the circuit feeding the lights has a 15 amp breaker connected to it. if yours is 20 amps and the kitchen lights is all that's on it, change it to a 15.
you don't want to intermix 12 & 14 on a circuit.

[mr.B]

Ok I will check the breaker. I flipped it the other day but didn't notice the amperage on it. Now I feel plenty confident doing this ! Of course where I want to put the lights is near the roof so it is a bit of a crawl through the attic and laydown to get there Everywhere else has heaps of room !!

thanks a lot