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  • Security lights

    Hello all,

    I'll make a short story long here...we've been having problems with someone breaking into cars around our neighborhood. You can't shoot at criminals anymore and you can't booby-trap the yard [}] so I'll have to settle for security lights. (Just a little venting there. Don't mind me) The current placement of the existing lights places the new security light photocell behind the gutter downspout. (I believe that's what the little device is called - correct me if I'm wrong!) (See illustration)

    Can I extend the wiring and make a bracket to move the photocell to the opposite side? Wiring looks straight-forward and shouldn't be an issue.

    Any thoughts on this? Has anyone else done this before? Let me know what you think.

    -Thanks
    Gary








  • #2
    Heck yeah! Do it! I wanted the sensor in a completely different area than the lights, too. I used a 50' extension cord between the sensor and it's original location near the lights and it's working fine.

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    • #3
      the sensor can be moved to wherever you want. It's just three wires - black, red, and white

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      • #4
        If this existing photo cell has an on/off switch inline with it to control it in the case it needs resetting, why don't you just leave the existing light where it is. Then buy a new motion detector light and install it where you want. Then install a run of NM cable between the new light and the existing switch to supply power to it.

        And Captain, it's not really a good idea to power your light via an extension cord, you should really install permanent wiring to this fixture.

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        • #5
          Excellent. I'll tackle that this weekend. I have them up and operational for the time being.

          I plan on making the new connections inside the fixture if possible. I added outdoor light boxes to give me more room for wiring as the original electrician had the wiring smashed inside a little hole in the overhang. Can someone give me some pointers on making weatherproof connections just in case I can't fit anymore wiring/wire nuts inside the boxes? (ie: certain connectors or shrink tubing etc)

          Thanks
          -Gary

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          • #6
            Use some butt splices and a crimp tool. Squirt some silicone in both ends of the splice.

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            • #7
              While I have in the past relocated a solar sensor to a remote location for secuirty lighting I much prefer motion sensors for numerous reasons...

              1. Less energy consumption

              2. When the lights switch on by motion an intruder can not be sure if it was in response to an automated switch or if they have been detected and are being watched.

              3. When lights switch on by motion it informs the homeower of a potential intruder in the zone.

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              • #8
                That's what I was talking about, Pup. The lights that switch on when motion is detected. Sorry for any confusion.

                I want to make the sensors remote so they pick up activity in the driveway better. I have them placed in the original position, but as I mentioned in the first post, they're kinda behind the gutter downspouts. They work, but I'd definately get a better detection range/zone if I could move them to the opposite side of the downspouts.

                Thanks for the input everybody.

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                • #9
                  Basically the wiring and the mount for a motion dectector is the same as a photo sensor so the information on how to configure it to a remote location would be the same.

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                  • #10
                    Yeah, I should. I used an outdoor 50' extension cord for it. Just a temp situation. Not sure if everything's where 'we' want.....So, I'll do it right when 'we' make up our minds.

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                    • #11
                      The motion sensor circuit black/white should be powered at all times. If you want to switch the load use the red wire.
                      In a photocell circuit the load comes off the red wire and power to it can be switched via the black because it goes through a test each time power is applied.

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