Isolating Existing circuit
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OK, you're gonna need to find how many feeders are going to your switchboxes and outlets in all the rooms you speak of. Since you say there are no three way switches but there is a few three wire lines we're gonna hafta look for a switch leg for split wired outlets in the bedroom(s) Chances are that the outlets in the hallway are just two wire. bedroom one and bedroom two have split wired outlets part of which is switched, the other half hot at all times. bathroom will have a two wire to a gfci and downstream loads will be taken off the bottom screws of the gfci. tell me what you have in each switchbox and I might be able to tell you what to splice together. look in the codebook for"box fill" requirements. this is the number of 12 wires you can legally put into what size box. each gangeable box has a certain number of cubic inch volumns of wires you can put in there. a typical 2x3x2 1/2 inch box can take only two 12 wires plus receptacle and be in compliance. -
Pretty much around here too and of course adhering to the 2008 NEC.
I am pulling 2-20A 12/2's with respective breakers as detailed in my permit as required for the dedicated heater circuit on the unit and the other for the bathroom 20A CFGI outlet and vanity light. ThanksLast edited by vdotmatrix; 03-15-2009, 08:22 AM.Leave a comment:
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Yes thankyou!
I also said, or tried to say, that I needed to do something with the existing circuit.
Is wire nutting the blacks, whites, reds and grounds a fail safe method for isolating the bathroom from the existing circuit (i.e. by-passing the bathroom), if I don't know from what direction the wires come from and otherwise don't know what to do with the series of 2-wire and 3-wire combinations on this circuit???
The new circuit details are already addressed in my approved electrical permit, and only serve as background for clarity in my rambling question to the group!
(I hope to have big enough boxes to accommodate the old wiring and the new wiring or else I'll have to have a box with a blank plate which will look really ugly. (wire limits inside boxes-always something
).
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Around here inspectors want to see a dedicated circuit for bathrooms, by dedicated I don't just mean the obvious dedicated breaker, they also want to see a "stand alone cable run" from panel to bathroom.Leave a comment:
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Uh, you said it above - NEW DEDICATED CIRCUIT(S) TO THE EXISTING BATHROOM" Answer run two new circuits to the bathroom. The heater will take probably all the 20 can provide and the fan/lite the other circuit. the fan is a fractional horsepower type, I have a fan/light/heater "with fan" and night light combination here. I ran two 20 amp circuits to this gizmo off a common trip two pole breaker.Leave a comment:
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Isolating Existing circuit
Moving onto the next home project.
I am putting in a new bathroom exhaust/light/heat unit and I was required to pull a permit for the electrical to run NEW 20A circuits to the existing bathroom.
The house was built in 1956 and it had a 100amp panel before I replaced it with a 200A one years ago.
HERE IS WHERE IT GETS COMPLICATED FOR ME:
The existing circuit supplies the back bedroom, hallway, bathroom and my daughter's bedroom with a series of 3-wire and 2-wire cable to the switches, fixtures and outlets (ahhhhhhhhh!); there are no 3-way switches.
I want to take the bathroom off this circuit and here is the question:
Because of the 2-wire , 3-wire dance it's doing can I just remove the switching branches and wire nut all the blacks together, and so on and still maintain the circuit for the rest of this circuit to the other bedrooms? They are all still neutral and black and grounds right-uh, on the same circuit?Tags: None
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