Crackling/sizzling noise

[Bodrey]

Update:

I bought a new WR-rated GFCI and wired it in exactly the same manner as the old one and I'm still getting the same result with my circuit tester - hot and neutral reversed. Under the pretense that it is in fact wired correctly, I decided to reverse the wires on the light switch (since I observed the sizzling sound coming from the GFCI when the light was on in addition to it flickering). After reversing the light switch wires, I placed my voltage tester near the light switch and the tone was now coming from the bottom terminal, the same as the fan switch. So, then I suspected that the light switch wires had been reversed. However (and again), when I plugged my circuit tester into the GFCI I got the same result. I'm not aware if the orientation of wires on light switches matters, but in this case it didn't make a difference; the light comes on regardless.

The only other thing that I can surmise (and I suspect) is that one of the other two pairs of wires going to the GFCI should be on the Line side, and the pair connected to it now should actually be on the Load side. What say you? Otherwise, I don't know what else I can do to try and rectify the problem. When I put the voltage tester near the brass terminals on the GFCI I got a tone from both the top and bottom.

[TinyTool]

Since you’ve taken care of the wiring and you’re still getting that “hot and neutral reversed” error, it’s looking more likely that the GFCI itself could be the culprit. You’re right to lean toward that conclusion, especially since the GFCI isn’t weather-resistant (WR) and has been exposed to moisture over time. Swapping out the GFCI for a new, WR-rated one is a good next step. If it turns out that the GFCI was the problem, replacing it should fix everything. And if not, at least you’ve ruled out that possibility and can focus on other parts of the circuit with more confidence..

Regarding the unorthodox ground wire situation you mentioned, while it's good that the pairs are tightly bound, it might be worth connecting them together properly with a wire nut to ensure there's a solid ground connection across the circuit. It’s a small step, but making sure everything is as standard as possible helps rule out potential issues..

Replacing the GFCI with a WR-rated model seems like your best bet at this point. I’d be interested to hear if that solves the issue, and if not, we can continue troubleshooting from there. Good luck, and feel free to share any more details or pictures if needed!

[Bodrey]

TT - I re-seated all of the connections on both sides. Some of them had a little bit of copper exposed beyond their respective insulation. So, I trimmed them back as necessary. I know these backstab connectors are not reliable, but I tried pulling on each wire before I loosened the screws and they were all secure. However, I think the backstab connectors on this GFCI provide a more secure connection than those on a regular receptacle (they're held in place by tightening the terminal screws). In any event, after re-testing I got the same result - "hot and neutral reversed".

I also checked the connections on the light and fan switches. Although the wires on each of the switches are connected to the backstab connectors and not the terminals, I don't suspect that either of these switches is the problem. The neutrals are firmly secured using wire nuts and electrical tape. The only thing I noticed that was somewhat unorthodox was that there were two pairs of ground wires (tightly bound but not secured with wire nuts) but the two pairs were not bound together. Again, I don't think this is the cause of the fault, but I can take a pic of the light/fan wiring and post it if you'd like to see it.

Moisture could certainly be a factor, and in addition as you stated the GFCI itself could be faulty. I'm leaning towards that as being the problem. Easy enough to swap out to confirm. The one installed is also not of "Weather Resistant" (WR) grade. So, over time moisture may have degraded the connections.

[TinyTool]

Hi Bodrey!

From the picture, it looks like the wiring is done correctly with the black wires connected to the brass terminals (for hot) and the white wires connected to the silver terminals (for neutral). However, just looking at it doesn’t always tell the whole story. A loose connection might not be visible but can still cause the crackling sound you’ve been hearing, as well as the light flickering.

One of the next steps would be to make sure all the connections are tightly secured. Sometimes, even if everything is wired correctly, a slightly loose wire can cause electrical arcing, leading to the noises and flickering. If everything seems secure but the problem persists, it’s possible that the GFCI itself could be faulty. Over time, GFCI outlets can degrade, especially in bathrooms where moisture is more common, and that might explain the reversed hot and neutral signal from your tester.

I’d recommend checking all the connections first, and if the issue isn’t resolved, replacing the GFCI might be a good idea. If the problem continues even after replacing the outlet, then it could be something to do with the wiring leading to the switches for the light and fan. If that’s the case, it might be worth checking those connections or bringing in a professional to ensure everything is safe.

[Bodrey]

Recently, when turning on the bathroom light I've noticed a sizzling/crackling noise coming from the GFCI receptacle above the sink. In addition, the light bulb flickers. I plugged my Klein circuit tester into it and it's telling me that the hot and neutral connections are reversed. However, as you can see from the pic all of the black wires are connected to the brass terminal side of the receptacle, and the white wires (neutrals) are connected to the silver terminal side of the receptacle. It appears to be wired correctly.



Now, as you can see there are three sets of cables connected to the receptacle. Two sets of cables branch off and lead to the bathroom light switch and fan...



Is it possible that the wires going to the light and/or fan switches are connected improperly and that that is where the problem lies? Or, is it possible the GFCI itself has become faulty and is throwing out a false "incorrect wiring" signal? The light and fan switches have always worked properly, and it has only been in the last few weeks that the light has started to flicker and that the GFCI has been making the crackling noise. TIA