heat but no cold

[polocash]

I had a HVAC repairman put in some stop leak that would clog small leaks. I had leaks in my coil. This seemed to have worked but now I think I have a clog on my copper line outside on the compressor freon line. It is cold at 1 location and then gets room temp within an inch. I was told that there is a filter inside at this point. I believe this could be logged. Could it be the stop leak chemical?

A repairman said it works in heat, 1 direction, but not cold the other. Can something be clogged in 1 direction but not the other?

Thanks

Rick

[HayZee518]

freon line

does your system use a filter/dryer? does it have a sight glass?
a/c works by a differential in pressure across an orifice [i.e. thermal expansion valve] on the manifold pipe on the evaporator. the low side has pressures of zero to about 55 psi. high side from about 255 to 375 or higher. your tech is seeking the easy way out [ one of those pay me now or pay me later] schemes. stop leak is temporary.
the whole system should be sniffed out with a leak detector. the ultrasonics works better than a propane tank with a reaction plate.

[polocash]

does your system use a filter/dryer? does it have a sight glass?
a/c works by a differential in pressure across an orifice [i.e. thermal expansion valve] on the manifold pipe on the evaporator. the low side has pressures of zero to about 55 psi. high side from about 255 to 375 or higher. your tech is seeking the easy way out [ one of those pay me now or pay me later] schemes. stop leak is temporary.
the whole system should be sniffed out with a leak detector. the ultrasonics works better than a propane tank with a reaction plate.

He said the blockage is at the filter dryer. I do not see a sight glass. He used a handheld device and found the leaks on the inside coil this last summer. He showed me where there was oil also on the coil. It seems like it still holds the freon in this spot by sniffer, but has developed a small leak in the center now and the clog is cutting off my cooling. It blows cold in house but can't keep cool. It goes off for a few minutes and then runs along time and repeats.

He did say the high side was normal but the low side was a little low.

He is suggesting a new unit. Mine is almost 14 years old. New coil was estimated at 750 part and 750 install. $350 to replace filter dryer and freon. I can get a new unit, at his cost, through a friend and tech quoted $1300 for install. Is this average? I have my air handler in an inside closet above a water heater.

[HayZee518]

your a/c

the filter/dryer doesn't cost what he quoted you. Sporlan makes filter/dryers - it costs about 30 bucks. If your tech has a freon recovery system he can recover the freon in your system, unsolder the filter/dryer and replace it. for good measures he should install a sight glass. this way you can monitor your system to see if freon should be added. the sight glass allows you to see bubbles in the system IF it isn't fully charged. ok, you mentioned oil in the A coil. this indicates a leak and this is where your freon is going - to atmosphere and it will continue doing so until it is sealed up - either the leak is brazed or the A coil is replaced. oil is necessary for your system as the oil travelling with the freon lubricates and cools the compressor. no oil your compressor will stop working and give you an added expense of replacing IT! just remember, an a/c system is a closed loop system. if it develops a leak, its not a closed loop anymore. freon, either R-22 or R-12 is very expensive that's why newer systems are using 134a or an azeotropic mix of two types - because they are atmosphere friendly and don't deplete the ozone layer. chlorinated hydro-carbons like R-22 and R-12 do.

[LazyPup]

Polocash...the first thing you should replace is your HVAC tech...No competant HVAC tech would use the type of flim flam he is trying to sell you.

[polocash]

Polocash...the first thing you should replace is your HVAC tech...No competant HVAC tech would use the type of flim flam he is trying to sell you.

My decisions have been based on the facts I have been given by many ac people. Air conditioners have a life of 12-15 years. Is this true?

I honestly think the guy is trying to help me. He was much more reasonable with the work he has done for me up to date. He only charged me $25 per lb of freon (old type) when everyone else wanted $80.

I had a 13 year old unit when he added the stop leak to the freon. This was advised as a temporary fix to get by as I would probably need a new system soon.

The original leak showed leakage along top front of coil. I faced a $1500.00 bill for replacing the coil or trying the fix a leak. He did not offer a quote on repairing the coils though, only replacing. I now have a leak in the center front of coil.

In my mind, I couldn't see fixing a 13 year old unit for that kind of money vs buying a new one. We tried the fix a leak product to buy more time. It stopped the leak in the coils as he came by 2 months later and confirmed I had not lost freon.

I can get new equipment at cost from a friend from another state drop shipped to my house and he would install for $1250.00. My price was better than his. This would be compressor outside and air handler/furnace inside a closet in my home. I only have electric.

He has advised me not to get another heat pump. He said just more things to go wrong and the energy savings is not much for me in S Texas. This would also give my compressor (outside unit) a rest during winter adding to the life.

So does his pricing and advice sound ok?

Thanks

Rick

[HayZee518]

replacement

the bottom line is your call. if you trust him, go with him. check out what his other customers say about him. call the BBB and see what his track record is. I'd just like to know how the leak started in the first place. did your fins start to move from vibration and cause a weak spot on the tubing? if you do go with another unit, I'd check out the company that manufactures the components - their track records, how many failures they've had over a ten year period etc.

[polocash]

could be my fault

I have a friend who manages several apartment complexes and she uses him. She has had no problems with him.

I have a trane unit and I do not know why/how the leaks started. I do know that the fins were flattened across the top area where this happened and was covered by dust/debris. I think the debris stuck to the oil. I might have made matters worse as I was told at a home depot to get a fin cleaner to clean and straighten them. It looked like a 4 sided comb with various widths between teeth. I found the one that matched my grooves and tried to clean between fins and straighten them. It was my first house and I was much more naive then. I had freon added about 2.5 years ago and it cooled until this summer, so leak seemed to be small.

I thought if I had to add a little freon every couple of years that it was better than replacing unit. The HVAC tech that put this freon 2.5 years ago did not check for leakes, just added freon. It was a trial fix and after 2 years I assumed it was fixed.

Is it wise to repair a 14 year old unit that uses the old freon?

I have learned to be more prepared this time..

[HayZee518]

a/c

given what you said and the age of the unit I would go with a newer unit that uses R-134a or a refrigerant mix. Trane is a real good unit. Anything that uses a Copeland compressor is good. Fedders is another one. There's a lot of hype about a Carrier. Again your call. Little things like a filter/dryer and sight glass as well as access valves at the compressor are a real help. While most are not user friendly your tech won't have to puncture a line to put in an access valve, which over time loosens and causes problems.
As far as heat goes, on the average what are you looking at for comfortable temperatures in the dead of winter? I was in florida in january one year and the morning temperature was 40 degrees. I was also in texas [lackland afb] in mid june and temperatures were around 104 in the shade.

[zamirmewelldy]

freon line

does your system use a filter/dryer? does it have a sight glass?
a/c works by a differential in pressure across an orifice [i.e. thermal expansion valve] on the manifold pipe on the evaporator. the low side has pressures of zero to about 55 psi. high side from about 255 to 375 or higher. your tech is seeking the easy way out [ one of those pay me now or pay me later] schemes. stop leak is temporary.
the whole system should be sniffed out with a leak detector Diamond veneer. the ultrasonics works better than a propane tank with a reaction plate.

Heat but no cold presents a unique situation, whether in a climate system, a mechanical device, or even in biological contexts. Heat represents energy in motion, the active transfer of energy between molecules, while cold is simply the absence of that heat. When only heat exists, the system may be one that continually accumulates energy, preventing the formation of balance or contrast with cooler temperatures.