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  • rgph07eauer will not stay lit

    The furnace is about 10 years old and after i restart it the blower comes on first and the it ignites but after a few seconds it turns off. It will keep doing that about four more times. When it stops the error code only indicates a 1 hour lock out which is 2 green and 1 yellow. I cleaned the flame sensor and ignite is new. I replaced the filters in the vent and the batteries to the thermostat. Any suggestions?

  • #2
    furnace

    need more accurate information. googgling what you listed doesn't show up anything.

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    • #3
      whats going on

      When the system comes on everything comes on blower, and and all burners but the igniter it's still trying to lite. You see the flames and then you hear this clicking noise. It does that for about 3-5 minutes and then shuts off. Then in about another 5 mins later it's tries again and then turns off. Does that help.

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      • #4
        furnace

        your source of fuel is either propane or natural gas. In either case you must have a purge cycle, otherwise the heat exchanger would blow up!
        Your source of ignition can be either a hot rail type or spark ignition or a standing pilot.
        a spark ignition will have three items in {on} it.
        A pilot flame, a spark gap and a flamerod sensor.
        Since you say you have flames, then the main valve is open. You also say you still hear clicks after the flames are established.
        What this tells me is that the flamerod circuitry is not working until the time cycle cycles out and the system locks out.
        check the flamerod.

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        • #5
          Flame rod

          The rod was dirty so I took it off and cleaned it with a soft sandpaper sponge. I attached it back and it still does not work.Click image for larger version

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          The first one is before and the second is after I cleaned it. I had the unit serviced last year for the same issue and the company replaced the pressure switch. Could I still have a switch problem?

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          • #6
            flamerod

            make sure when you replace the flamerod that the probe doesn't touch anything made of metal.
            it has to be in free air to function.
            when it grounds out it stops working and its circuitry will lock out your burner.
            the way it works, is, it detects the ionized air in the presence of a flame. normally there is a.c. on it. In a flame it changes to d.c.
            with no flame it stays as an a.c. current
            a pressure switch would be normally open until pressure is applied, then its contacts close.
            use a jumper wire to verify this. just jump out the common to open contacts and see what happens, but don't leave it in the circuit.

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            • #7
              pressure switch

              I removed the pressure switch to jump it and discovered that there was water in the hose and a bunch of water came out of the switch. Does this Mean that the switch is no longer good or can I let it dry out and replace it. Also there is a rattling noise inside of is that normal? In case you need it called mount diaphragm vertical by Cleveland controls. There is a sticker on it with these numbers rss-495-011 under 23026-3-0110

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              • #8
                pressure switch

                your lucky the pressure switch is plastic otherwise I'd say right off to change it out.
                the rattling inside could be the linkage between the diaphragm and switch.
                there is two ports, one is H the other is L.
                the switch contacts are the side is common, the outer one is NO the middle one is NC.
                see where your wires are connected. my guess the common and the outer one.
                with the pressure switch NOT closing could be part of your problem.

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                • #9
                  new switch

                  I purchased a new switch the rss_455_011 but I think I should have gotten 42-101233-81. My question is the Ross switch calls for .2_1.0 can when I install this switch will I need to co figure it or just install and leave it like it is. Or should I just buy the other switch 42-101233-81.

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                  • #10
                    pressure switch

                    the .2-1.0 I believe refers to the pressure needed to operate the switch. it might be bar or atmospheric pressure.
                    you'll have to figure that one out.
                    gas pressure uses a water column pressure gauge.

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                    • #11
                      stuck

                      So I changed the pressure switch and the igniter. The inductee comes on but that's it's. Before I changed it everything came on. The error light are 2 blinks. Do I know need professional help?

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                      • #12
                        schematic

                        take a close up picture of the schematic and send it here. I'll take a look at it and what the problem might be.

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