leaking freon

[dslee]

I've had to recharge my freon twice in the past 6 months, so I think there's a leak in my system somewhere. I have central AC (a Rheem unit).

I called Sears today to take a look at the problem. He said that from what I told him, and from measuring the line (10psi), there is indeed a leak somewhere.

He said that it'd be close to impossible to figure out where the leak is coming from, he did a quick visual check on the ac unit and found nothing. So he recommended that I replace the WHOLE AC system: the unit, the blower, and the lines. Does this sound reasonable? Is there anywhere else he could have checked before making this recommendation?

I paid $102 for his 20mins of work.

Thanks,
David

[LazyPup]

I would agree that finding a leak is often a tedious job but it is certainly not impossible, especially when the leak is of the magnatude you describe. It sounds as if the sears tech either didnt know what he was doing or he simply didnt want to do it, either way, you got ripped off and i would call his supervisor immediately and lodge a complaint.

Normally a technician experienced in finding leaks can locate one such as yours fairly quickly.

A lot of leak detection depends on the age and condition of the unit.

Often when condensing units get old the coils corrode on the lower passes and begin leaking. Those leaks can be repaired but it would probably not be cost effective to do so.

The most common place to find leaks is in or around the service valves, especially if you have schraider valves ( spring action valves similar to automobile tire valves.)

If a schraeder valve is leaking there is a special tool that can replace the valve core without loosing any of the remaining refrigerant charge. (The valve cores only cost about $.50 to $1.)

Examine the refrigerant drier canister. It is a small can about the size of a beer can on the liquid line (small diameter line at the condensing unit) The drier canisters are normaally painted steel, and as the paint weathers and cracks the steel can often rusts through.

Visually examine all the solder joints on the refrigerantlines, both at the condensing unit outside and where the lines are welded to the evaportor section inside. If you see any evidence of oil or an oily film near the joint there ia a strong likelihood that is your leak.

You stated that your charged the unit twice in 6 months. A leak of that magnitude can usually be found by simply using a soap bubble solution. A trained technician would not even begin chasing leaks with out a good quality electronic Halogen Leak Detector. They are capable of finding leaks so small that they only leak and ounce or two per year.

Using a halogen leak detector check for leaks on the compressor at each of the welded fittings and at the wire terminal commection block. If the compressor is leaking from the wiring terminal block it is nearly impossible to repair ane would require a new compressor, however, if the leak is found at a welded joint in the tubing, they can simply cut the bad fitting out and weld in a new section of tubing.

The lines running under or through the house from the condenser to the evaporator section should be continuous runs of roll copper and they usually are not the problem, although in some circumstances old lines can be porous the same as the pin holes seen in copper water lines from hard water. If that is the case, they could pull new lines.

If you still cannot locate the leak you have to isolate the evaporator from the condenser, pull vacuum on both systems and see which section is leaking. It would make no sense to replace the condenser if the leak were in the evaporator and vice versa.

In an extremely rare instance there is a condition that appears to be a leak but is not. Some AC evaporators have a metering orifice inside a fitting where the liquid line (small diameter line) meets the evaporator. If the metering orifice is obstructed the refrigerant is trapped in the condensing unit and liquid line. It would show an extremely low pressure on the suction line which is often mis-dagnosed as a leak.

My question is, how did you get the unit charged twice in three months without testing for leaks?

Current Environmental Protection Agency Regulations prohibit anyone from transporting, possessing or distrubuting refrigerants unless they have successfully completed a prescribed course in "Proper Refrigerant Handling Techniques" and they must carry a card on their person to confirm that.

In addition, the EPA regulations prohibit anyone from dispensing refrigerants into a system that has a known leak. This is quite serious as the fines can be as much as $10,000 per proven offence.

By law, when a technician is informed there is a leak, or if he locates a leak he is required to either fix it, or pump out all remaining refrigerant until the leak is repaired. If he is unable to pump it down, he is required by law to inform the EPA within 24 hours and follow up with a written report to the EPA within ten days, notifying them of the location and nature of the leak.

To put additional teeth in the law, the EPA has posted a $5,000 reward for information leading to the arrest and conviction of anyone who is known to be venting refrigerants to the atmosphere, either directly or indirectly by failing to repair a leak.

If that technician did not offer to locate and repair the leak or notify you of the EPA regulations he could be found guilty of the above infraction of law. r.rinard -journeyman plumber & HVAC tech

[imeduc]

You dont say how old the set up is . If you have about 15 years on it go for a new one for sure. You dont say how long till the first charge of freon? but the second one he should went over the whole system then could have put some Dytel freon in . It would give you something to look for red where the leak is. We use fluorscent leak detection and have the Halogen kind also. lots of the new coils inside dont last to long of late.

ED

My mistakes dont define me they inform me.