I have a unit that provides Cool Air based on the Cold Water pipes being supplied with Cold Water in the Summer and Hot Air based on Hot Water pipes being supplied with Hot Water as long as the appropriate valves are open and closed. Right now cold water is cirulating and the fan is runnig but not blowing cold air as it was a few days ago. The pipes prior to entering the fan unit are COLD to touch. Can anyone explain what could have happened?
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Not sure how yours is set up here.But on most there is a solenoid valve there that is controled from the tstat that will let the cold or hot water into the coil. Can be electric power or the valve itself???? something in the line?????
ED
My mistakes dont define me they inform me.My mistakes dont define me they inform me.
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what you've described is an evaporative cooler and a convection heater. What the above gentleman said could very well be the problem. No electric the solenoid won't open or is locked in the wrong position.
Are the cold and hot water pipes on a circulating pump circuit? If this is so, maybe the pump is OOS due to power brownouts.
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I live in a high rise condo building. How can I find out if there is a ciculating pump circuit[?] Would the pump be in my unit or centrally located. If centrally located and OOS would other ppls units be affected[?] The guy next door to me has the same temp air coming out which i consider to be NOT so cooling... he seems to not be bothered by it for some reason.[] I should knock on other ppls doors to get a bigger sample size . Also should i have an electrical circuit dedicated to this unit? I dont! Is there a possibility of the thermostat has gone bad all of the sudden[?] Does the thermostat have anything to do with the operation of the selenoid[?]
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Sounds like the the circulator is for the whole unit and each individual apartment takes its supply through a zoning valve which operates off a thermostat. If it's a TACO valve then it's powered by 24 volts AC as well as the thermostat. There's three screws on the valve. One is a common and the other two go to the thermostat.
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NOrmally you do not need to change the valve itself.
The valve is a steel plunger needle valve type valve sealed inside a copper riser on the valve body. The electrical solenoid then surrounds the copper stub. The most common failure of the valve is a burned out coil in the solenoid.
You can test the solenoid by disconnecting the wires then check for continuity through the coil with and ohm meter. If you get no continuity, replace the electrical coil section.
If you get the make and model number off the valve unit you can usually get a replacement coil at an HVAC supply house.
If the internal valve plunger is bad, you can often get a rebuild kit for that too.
To install the rebuild kit, you have to turn off the water supply, drain the system below the valve level, remove the solenoid, then there should be four bolts holding the riser stub on the valve body. Remove those bolts. lift the riser stub and remove the steel valve plunger and the spring, insert the new spring, valve plunger and re-assemble the valve body.
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