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  • #31
    What kind of pipe do I need to use for this?

    Single wall or double wall
    Black stove pipe
    Galvanized
    AL
    etc.

    Thanks

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    • #32
      I got black stove pipe on mine. But mine vents into a lined chimney. going through a window like you are with a thimble, I'd use double wall and once outside switch to galvanized going up to a stack cap. guy the stove pipe so the wind doesn't catch it. should go four feet above the eave.

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      • #33
        Wow, this is going to be a lot pricier than I thought then. I went to Menards and black stove pipe was very expensive, maybe I will look online.

        Do you need sealing tape at the seams (if so what type) or is it just friction fit?

        Finally, the doors and top have no gasket, just formed cast iron. I would think smoke would seep out. Should I try installing some of that stove ribbon gasket or do you think it will be fine?

        Thanks Tom

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        • #34
          NO SEAL TAPE THE PIPE IS GONNA GET hot! DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE GAPS AROUND THE DOORS. THE NATURAL DRAFT WILL SUCK IN AIR AROUND THOSE PLACES.

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          • #35
            Great, my last concern before I spend more money and time on this...

            I am adding this as a supplement to my NG central furnace to help with expected increased costs of NG this year. My concern is when I use it the living room with be nice and toasty but everywhere else in the house will be freezing. The stove will have to get its air intake from somewhere, I assume this will be the rest of the house. Will that be an issue, I'm worried I may be doing more bad than good.

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            • #36
              if your house isn't totally air tight, I wouldn't worry. If it is air tight, crack a window in your nearest non habitable room for air.

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              • #37
                You said to use plywood around the thimble to "seal" off the window. Can I still fiberglass insulation between the two layers of plywood, I assume that can safely touch the thimble. How did you go about sealing off the plywood to the house so you don't get any drafts?

                Finally, would it make sense to put a 1" hose through the plywood to the outside and place it near the stove intake, make a trap by bending the hose at the floor (similar to how fresh air intakes on many furnaces are) so the cold air would just sit. Then, when operating the stove it will have a fresh air intake and the rest of the house shouldn't get drafty and cold.

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                • #38
                  sounds do-able yeah use the fiberglass but even though its fireproof, it does melt - an occasional wisp of insulation touching the pipe won't matter but a lot - would.

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                  • #39
                    Old thread, I know...

                    I never got around to using this last year. Recently, I ended up installing it in my 2 car detached garage. I made my own wall thimble out of a galvanized electrical enclosure and vented it out of my garage window. I used it the past 2 weekends and it works pretty good and is cool near combustibles. My garage is un-insilated with aluminum garge doors. I want to install a blower (squirrel cage, microwave fan, large computer fans, etc...I have a ton of them to choose from). My question is where should I am the fan? The stove is a few feet from the back wall in the center of the garage. Should the fan be behind blowing onto the stove/duct/aiming down/up, etc? The ceiling is open with two whirly birds on the roof and I have new aluminum soffit with lots of venting so as the heat rises I probably loose a ton there.

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                    • #40
                      as it sits now, the stove is heating via convection. heat is radiating from the stove and going upwards. the whirlybirds should be set for reverse, blowing the upper air down. if you want to distribute the heat you can make a sheet metal plenum around and above the top of the stove. duct it using round duct from the plenum up at an angle. fans don't really work too well with an open wood burner. I got a floor fan pointed at my pot bellied stove and it really isn't doing too much. SOME heat is driven off it but not that much. There's a site in pennsylvania called NEPA. they deal with mostly coal but you might pick up tips from them.

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                      • #41
                        Hmm, how do you reverse whirlybirds?

                        Making a plenum is more cost and effort than I want to put forth. I also want to take this down every spring (the reason I'm venting out the window).

                        I was going to line part of the back wall with Reflectix. It's supposed to bounce (reflect) heat back and off it. I was also thinking about putting foam between my garage door slats. Do you think any of that would help?

                        Maybe I will install a fan above the window pointing down. That will push air across the heat coming off the flue pipe and the stove itself and push it down into the room before it rises back up.

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                        • #42
                          most ceiling fans have a reverse switch on the housing. check your manufacturer for one.

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                          • #43
                            Ceiling fans? I didnt mention ceiling fans. I'm talking about roof whirlybirds...

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                            • #44
                              ok, what is a roof whirlybird?
                              I did a google search and by definition a whirlybird is 1) a helicopter and 2) a cat play toy.
                              Last edited by HayZee518; 11-18-2009, 10:16 AM. Reason: added info

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                              • #45
                                ok, I just did another search and found what you referred to. they are wind propelled vents that exhausts the hot air near the ridge and roof line. now since you are trying to heat your garage, simply place a piece of plywood over the vent with a "round" of fiberglass inside. if you go to craigslist search for surplus industrial ceiling fans and put one in to blow the heated air from the ceiling back down.

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