Furnace has stopped working - HELP!

[Bodrey]

Yesterday, I woke up to find that my gas furnace is no longer working. It's a KeepRite - model C9MPV075F12D1. Almost 17 years old. I can hear a faint humming sound coming from the furnace but that's all.

Steps I've taken to troubleshoot the issue:
- I worked with an Ecobee rep to rule out my smart thermostat as the cause
- I removed the Flame Sensor and cleaned the oxidation from it
- The circuit board has power (LED comes on) and the fuse is good. Using a multi meter, I verified that the transformer is good and the board's getting the proper voltage (24-28V)
- I used my multi meter to test the voltage going to the inducer motor - 0V. So, there could be an issue with the board

I'd also like to test the inducer motor's capacitor. I watched this guy's YouTube video to learn how to test the capacitor, but his furnace setup looks different than mine. I'm unable to locate it. The only two components branching off of the wiring harness from the inducer motor both look like pressure switches. So, I'm not sure which component is the capacitor.

I'm hoping someone that has worked with KeepRite furnaces could help me identify it (using the included pics below) so I can test it. Else, I hope a furnace tech out there could let me know what they think. TIA!

[machinist]

Hey Bodrey!

Hope you’ve been doing well!

I haven’t worked directly on this furnace model myself, but I looked into it a bit and figured I’d share what I found in case it helps. From what I can tell, your KeepRite uses an ECM (Electronically Commutated Motor), which is a variable-speed DC motor. These motors are more efficient and don’t use an external capacitor like older PSC motors, everything is built into the motor itself.

Since your inducer motor isn’t kicking on and you’ve already confirmed the board is getting voltage, one possibility could be a stuck or faulty relay on the control board. Another thing to check, and this is sometimes overlooked, are the safety switches. That includes the high-limit switch, rollout switches (usually near the burners), and the pressure switch. If any of those are open or tripped, the board won’t send power to the inducer motor.

If you haven’t already, it might be worth:

• Testing all the safety switches with a multimeter, just to make sure they have continuity and aren’t open.
• Taking a close look at the control board for any obvious signs of damage, like scorch marks or popped components.
• Checking the wiring to the inducer motor to make sure nothing’s loose or corroded.

Hope that helps you narrow it down a bit!