Monitor 41 issue

[InTheWoods]

is the high lift pump the one that is installed on the wall right behind the monitor heater that makes all the noise ? Or is that the sump tank? Im prepairing to take something apart today and clean it out I dont care what it is! There is a small square opening to the bottom right on the side with 3 screws, 2 silver and 1 copper. I unscrewed one of the silver ones because i read in one of the older posts that its some kind of oil filter ..
K-1 shot out at me so i buttoned it up real quick. lol I really do appreciate the help..

[Bryand]

To the left of the 3 screws you were talking about is a small hole with a lever in it. Push that lever 1 time it will release the float from the magnet and allow the sump to fill up with fuel. Sounds like you have fuel coming in but the float is in the up position not allowing the kerosene to fill up the top of the sump. You only press it one time.

[HayZee518]

The M-41 has a toggle over center lockout. It is entirely mechanical. That's the red button you see just above the bleeder screw and filter plate [ the two screws] When too much or too little fuel comes into the sump, this lever is spring loaded to shut off the fuel flow to the sump. You see many guys saying to "press this button three or four times to prime" but it doesn't serve to prime anything. It's just a mechanical lockout and as Bryand said press it once. Now, in your post you said "you are going to take [something] apart." If you don't know what you are taking apart DON'T TOUCH IT! Better leave it alone until you are sure what you want to dissassemble. You'll cause more problems than you already have. Now, the high lift pump is usually mounted on the wall next to or near the heater. On the right bottom side of the heater is the button reset. Below it is a large screw. This bleeds out the sump tank. Those other two screws hold the plate and gasket behind the fuel filter. Shut off the fuel flow before you take anything apart here. Remove the plate and gasket. pull out the filter screen and clean it with GUMOUT carb cleaner and put it back. Later, down the line you might want to take out the whole sump tank and clean out whatever crap has accumilated inside of it. The brass gland nut in back of the sump tank is 14mm across the flats. Turn this nut clockwise to unloosen. Four screws hold the tank in the heater bottom. The spade terminals on the pump just pull off. They can go back on in any order. The pump solenoid also has a small stainless filter on its bottom.

[InTheWoods]

Okay this is what i tried so far..(and thank you Hayz and bryand for helping me out, Im learning.) I wanted to be sure a line wasnt clogged coming from the tank outside, so i took a straw and methodicaly removed all the K-1 from the high lift pump the best i could. I also removed this round silver cap from under the high lift pump. was a little dirty inside so i cleaned it out. Put it all back together and restarted the unit. The high lift pump filled right back up with K-1 when i held the silver button down on it. So i knew the line outside wasnt clogged. OKAY. now, i finaly found that button you guys were talking about just now.. I just pushed it once. It clicked. and i rebooted the whole machine. Its not making that same gurgling noise that it was doing before on every cycle. WOW, NOW ITS GIVING OFF HEAT!!! THANK YOU!!! I feel like the man over here! My Wife, my 3 toddlers, and i thank you. That button must have been it.

[Bryand]

Glad you got it going as Hay said don't just start tearing apart. It will cost you much more in the long run. Rule out the simple stuff first. I work on the all the time and hate going behind someone else but most of the time I make more money fixing what they tore up. I have one repairman that I have had to fix at least 50 behind this year and it's always the simple stuff he is over looking.

[InTheWoods]

Yeah ive learned the hard way before, at this historic hotel i used to keep up and running. Its a good tip to concider. So, why would the heater all of the sudden call for that button to be pushed? was it because i ran low on K-1?

[HayZee518]

the mechanical lockout works on low or no fuel, as well as overfill. when the heater shifts into high heat it'll empty the sump in about twenty seconds with no fuel coming back into it. the float drops and locks out the heater. the mechanical lockout has a finger that goes under the needle valve and forces it to close the needle valve in either no fuel or excessive fuel. the float has a super fine thread set screw. you don't want to mess with this. it adjusts the fuel level in the constant level control. I did at first and was cussing myself out for touching it, but I finally got it right. that springy metal tab is just glued to the floats surface so don't try to bend it.

[InTheWoods]

haha yeah i read posts from you dated back to 2008 and i remember you talking about that screw. well alright, Im very new to this site but seeing the treasure trove of information on here from good people, I'll def be coming back.