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  • #16
    the internals of the sump are really straight forward about where they go. the only area that is sticky is the position of the needle valve. the tangs on it go only one way so when the toggle over center lockout activates, it pushes the needle valve down, NOT up. In the up position it'll keep the needle valve to seat open and you'll flood out the sump.

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    • #17
      m21..

      all right....removed the sump assembly...filter completely clean...inside of sump had no brown gunk either...made sure in line and cappillary lines were clear...plugged back in...combustion fan comes on immediately...I can hear the pump thumping now where it wasnt before...no fuel coming out of cappillary at all....

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      • #18
        ok, s all the prestarts are working which allows the fuel pump to operate. all that is left is to rod out the small copper cappillary tube and its exit into the combustion pot. take a bare piece of copper telephone wire and rod out the whole tube, then take a 1/8 inch drill bit WITH YOUR FINGERS and drill out the end that goes into the pot. be very careful with that pot fitting. it is a brass gland nut which mates to a steel tube into the pot. do it when its cold. it is very easy to cross thread it. the silicone gasket and washer is necessary.

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        • #19
          Do you have any fuel pumping from the top of the fuel pump when it is pumping.

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          • #20
            m21...

            all right...rodded out the cappillary line with a 18 ga copper wire...put back together...started up fine, combustion fan on ...pump started thumping but still no fuel coming out of cappillary line...suction on the pot end of the cappillary line produces no fuel either...took the plate off of the filter on the side of the sump and pours fuel there...hmmm?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by NEWHOPEFARMS View Post
              all right...rodded out the cappillary line with a 18 ga copper wire...put back together...started up fine, combustion fan on ...pump started thumping but still no fuel coming out of cappillary line...suction on the pot end of the cappillary line produces no fuel either...took the plate off of the filter on the side of the sump and pours fuel there...hmmm?
              You may have fuel where your filter is in the bottom of the sump and still not have fuel where your fuel pump is in the top of the sump. If the needle valve is stuck in the closed position you will have fuel in the bottom of the sump but not in the top where the pump is. There is a bigger screw just to the left and above the plate where the filter is that allows you to drain the top of the sump.

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              • #22
                sump button

                If the pump is thumping you may need to push the Red button or the metal lever once for one second ONLY. Depending on the year of your M21 you could have a Red button that trips the float off the magnet (off position). If there is a lever on the side of the sump it does the same thing. One time for one second ONLY. Once the float is off the magnet you may get fuel flow. The button is NOT a primer, just a trip off the magnet.

                Tom

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                • #23
                  About a 1 1/2 weeks ago my 422's combustion motor would come on then the burner would start. Soon after the heater began putting out heat the burner would shut down and all the burn indicator lights would start flashing. I tried several times to get it to run without any luck, I then took the screws out that hold the flame rod in and wiggled the flame rod around a little bit, put the screws back in and it's been working fine ever since. I assume some carbon had built up between the flame ring and the flame rod causing the flame rod to short out shutting down the heater. This may be something you'll want to try to see if it fixes your problem. Just be careful not to damage the gasket for the flame rod.
                  Last edited by FordMan59; 01-24-2012, 07:23 PM.

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                  • #24
                    monitor 21

                    hey guys...still haven't got it running yet....flame rod had a little carbon build up but cleaned it though....combustion motor cuts on immediately,pot warms up and emits a good stream of warm air,fuel squirts thru cappilary tube, looking thru the glass into the pot there looks like a steady, complete ring of firein the pot except there is an intermitent flare up right under the glass peep hole....when it trips to come on completely, there is a flare up and all goes out... at the end of the proces something trips and the 8 flashing lights are there again...any ideas?
                    Last edited by NEWHOPEFARMS; 02-20-2012, 02:54 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Check to make real sure the flame rod is not too close to the burner ring. As the flame rod heats up it will move toward the burner ring not a lot but some. These are very hard to see down in to ensure it is not touching or close to touching. it really sounds like you are running out of kerosene as it runs for a longer period of time. Do you hear the fuel pump getting louder as it start to shut down.
                      Last edited by Bryand; 02-20-2012, 03:25 PM.

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                      • #26
                        M21

                        The numbers just don’t add up. If the stove was purchased at the last of the M22 run or somewhat into the M422 run the stove would have been new in 1996. If you ran it 3 years and stored it for 9 years that would be 2006? I think the stove was run much longer than you think and is in need of a combustion chamber overhaul. Since it is a M21 you may be able to get away with oiling the blower motor bearings. If the blower case is a gray color, inspect it closely for cracks. You can get a new style black cover if necessary. The burner pot needs to be cleaned and a new ring installed.

                        Tom

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                        • #27
                          monitor 21

                          Bryand..

                          Slightly adjusted flame rod...I cant see only feel that it isnt touching anything...removed cappilary line and rodded it out again with 18 ga wire...has a strong blue flame thru the view glass...when it tripped off this time it may have given me it's clue to the problem....as soon as it tripped off, the empty fuel light came on. And there is a full tank on it...where does it read its empty status from?...sump float,needle valve, where?

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                          • #28
                            the sump tank has a toggle over center lockout that operates off the tank float. when the fuel level gets well below the 3/4 inch level in the sump, the needle valve shuts and locks itself shut. the fuel solenoid begins to thump as it runs out of fuel. no fuel, no flame and the flame rod shuts down the system and you get eight flashing lamps. to reset the computer you must unplug the heater, then plug it back in. merely re-starting the system will not work. its got to be unplugged and plugged back in.

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                            • #29
                              Sump Tank Switch

                              The capsule tank Empty Light gets its message from a switch on the Sump Tank. If you remove the capsule tank you will see the wires and switch on top of the Sump Tank. When the fuel level is low the switch no longer floats and closes. The circuit is complete and the Light comes on. The stove will not run with the Empty Light On. Make sure the plastic piece on the screen is sticking up enough to make the cap open when it is sitting on the sump tank filter.

                              Tom

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                              • #30
                                moniyor 21

                                Thanks guys, I would have gotten to my wits end with this baby if it wasnt for you......I thinking you both are right...Hawkins111...I removed the view panel and see soot and powdery rust. This heater had to have been in service for at least8-9 yrs. My grandfather had the guy come out and do some preventive service work but it never broke down.I found a overhaul kit on ebay for $200 including the pot with the mat already glued in...also hayzee the empty light tells me something is still going wrong in the sump. got to regroup here and get this heater working...thanks a million...

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