GF200 trouble

[fi8215]

I have a GF200, probably 12-14 years old. When it is turned on the small internal fan runs, solenoids click (I assume they are the gas valve solenoids) but there doesn't appear to be combustion. After a minute or so the burner status lights on the control panel all flash. Any tips on where to start?

Also, I can purchase a GF1800 pretty reasonably. Anyone know if this is a drop in replacement regarding gas line and flue alignment?
Thanks!

[hawkins111]

Gf 200

Shortly after the motor comes on you should be able to see arcing through the window. No arcing, no ignition. If you see arcing you need to check the air safety switch. If it is not closed the gas valve will not open.

Tom

[HayZee518]

Gf200

I have run into the 200 at a camp locally and found the rubber tube on the air flow proving switch cracked and came off the nipple on the switch. replacing the tube took care of the problem

[fi8215]

Shortly after the motor comes on you should be able to see arcing through the window. No arcing, no ignition. If you see arcing you need to check the air safety switch. If it is not closed the gas valve will not open.

Tom

Thank you both for your reply.
Hayzee518- my brother had the same problem with his, but mine seems to be intact.

[HayZee518]

Monitor Heaters [in general]

Both the kero and gas heaters all go through the same starting sequence. The combustion blower is the first to come on and the last to shut off. The spark start on the gas is the same more/less as the igniter on the kero model. The fuel pump and sump on the kero system is the same [more/less] as the gas solenoid on the GF models. The combustion air proving switch is the same on all models. you might have someone check the gas pressure to the gf model. a 5-6.5psi water column pressure is normal.
check for a blockage in the inlet outlet tubes. could be a spider in either or a carbon build up in the kero model.
the gas model has a spark gap that could have expanded so it doesn't spark even if there is high voltage present.
check overheat limits - these have to be normally closed. the circulator limits have to be open, they close when their setpoint is reached.
gas does not suffer from icing, kero units do.

[hawkins111]

GF 200 ignition

Have you confirmed the ignitor is arcing?

Tom

[fi8215]

Sorry for the delay, was out of town for a few days.
So here's where I'm at with this thing:

When I turn the unit on I get power to each of the 3 gas solenoids- SV1, SV2 & the gas control valve. I also hear these click, although it's hard to be sure which ones are actuating because they are so close together. I don't have a meter handy to check the actual gas pressure at the test port, but I may be able to borrow one. I did pull the brass plug out of the test port to see if I could detect gas flow- did not feel/hear/smell any, but I don't know if I would.

The pressure sw closes and I get power through the Overheat Thermostat. End result is that I get power to the electrode and it does spark- I can't really see it through the window, but I pulled it out and it does fire. I also pulled the pressure detective pipe off and was able to see it spark in the burner.

It seems that I have spark & air but no fuel, and that I have all the signals that should give me fuel.
Can I take all this to mean that the flue pipe is good (looks clear), and no safety is being triggered- the problem is simply that one of the 3 gas valves is not opening despite being energized? (and yes, I have good gas flow at the connection to the unit)

If so, does anyone know where to purchase these solenoid valves and the gaskets for the electrode and air pressure detect pipe? I don't see them on ebay.

Thanks again!

PS- what the heck does a flame rod do??

[HayZee518]

flamerod

a flamerod is a safety device that locks out the heater in the absence of a flame. there is normally ac across the gap, but when the electrode is in a flame, its characteristics change and it puts out dc. the air between ground and the electrode ionizes and conducts electricity.

[hawkins111]

GF 200 electrical values

Fi8215,

You need to check the resistance for the gas control valve and the two valves on the gas solenoid valve. Connector PP should show 87 Ohms. Connector LL should show 2400 Ohms and MM should show 2400 Ohms. If those are correct the voltage at L should be 105 volts DC, M 105 volts DC and P should show 8.7 volts DC to start with. These voltages may need to be taken separately as they are there only for a short bit if the stoves does not start. Note: be very careful trying the stove with any of the components off the combustion chamber. If you do get gas and a spark you will get lit up.

Tom

[fi8215]

Fi8215,

You need to check the resistance for the gas control valve and the two valves on the gas solenoid valve. Connector PP should show 87 Ohms. Connector LL should show 2400 Ohms and MM should show 2400 Ohms. If those are correct the voltage at L should be 105 volts DC, M 105 volts DC and P should show 8.7 volts DC to start with. These voltages may need to be taken separately as they are there only for a short bit if the stoves does not start. Note: be very careful trying the stove with any of the components off the combustion chamber. If you do get gas and a spark you will get lit up.

Tom

I had the gas shut off when I was working in the combustion chamber, but good tip!

Ok, voltages are all good, SV2 appears to have an open coil- MM tests open. Any ideas on where to get a replacement, preferably for the individual valve, not the whole assy?

[hawkins111]

Gas Solenoid Valve GF200

Try your local Monitor dealer. They will be able to order the part if they don’t have it. If that does not work call or email, Hickory Home and Garden in NC. I will say, my wholesaler does not show a Gas Solenoid Valve for either the GF 200, GF1800 or the GF 500, GF 3800. They do show valves that have a different # that are identified as Gas Control valves for $200. I don’t think that is the right valve. The one you need is ID’ed as a Gas Solenoid Valve. Sorry I can’t help more.

Tom

[hawkins111]

Automatic Gas Valve

After checking with the distributor I found part number 6801 Automatic Gas Valve (unit) is the way the gas valve is sold today. That part cost about $215 dollars retail. Any Monitor dealer could order the part for you. It is a seldom used part so it might not be found on the net. As stated if you can’t find someone close try Hickory Home and Garden, 1-828-327-3719.

Tom

[fi8215]

Thanks a million Tom. I appreciate your time.
I haven't been able to locate a local dealer (the one in my area no longer deals or services MPI) so I emailed Hickory. Hopefully they'll be able to help me out. Again, thanks a bunch!
Mike