Replacing bearings on combustion motor. Found broken o-ring inside spring of damper. Is it necessary to replace? If so is there a part number? And does it set on top of solenoid to center spring?
The damper solenoid has an “O” ring on its shaft. It acts as a bumper to keep the shaft from hammering when it pulls in. Yes you should put it back in. No, it has no part number and is not listed in the manual. So much for the Monitor manual! Take the pieces and get a rough measurement. Any hardware or auto parts store will have something that’s fits.
The combustion blower supplies outside air to the center of the combustion chamber. It is a two-stage centrifugal blower powered by a 120VAC permanent-split capacitor squirrel-cage induction motor. The motor has a second-phase winding connected to common by a 2.5µF motor-run capacitor. The motor has two supply voltages 110VAC and 88VAC and operates at two speeds. The 88VAC is supplied through a 91 Ohm 20 Watt resistor.
There is a damper in the output duct of the blower housing that is operated by a 105VDC solenoid enclosed in a compartment in the housing. The damper is closed (solenoid power off) in the LOW and MED-LOW heat settings and open (solenoid activated) in the MED-HIGH and HIGH heat settings. In its closed state, the damper does not entirely shut off air flow, but restricts it considerably. The closed damper position can be adjusted slightly by loosening the two screws that secure the solenoid and sliding it up or down. These two screws are accessable through a small cover under the blower housing on the rear of the Monitor.
The blower housing assembly can be removed by removing the front grille, control panel, top panel, inner heat shield, and printed wiring board (PWB) mounting panel. Tools required are a Philips screwdriver and a stubby Philips screwdriver for the screws on the rear of the Monitor heater near the wall. The heater doesn't need to be removed from its normal position.
The housing assembly can be disassembled with a Philips screwdriver, a 13mm socket for the left-hand nut securing the first-stage rotor, and a 2.5mm Allen wrench for the set-screw securing the second-stage rotor.
The motor bearings are type 608 and should be shielded or sealed. Use at least ABEC Class 3 quality. McMaster-Carr 6661K82 are ABEC-1, but McM-C claims they are made to class 3 tolerances.
There is an O-ring on the solenoid piston that acts as a bumper when the piston is retracted. It is 7mm ID, 11mm OD, 2mm thick, black rubber. McM-C 9262K167 works fine.
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