Monitor 2400 E 14 error code

[Major Tom]

I have a 5 year old Monitor 2400 Kerosene heater. It has been shutting off lately with an E 14 error code. I checked the fuel source as well as cleaned any dust. All good there. It will burn a bright yellow flame in the window before shutting off. I opened it up, took out the flame rod, cleaned it and replaced it. The flame rod gasket was pretty trashed. I have a new flame rod gasket ordered. Does anyone know if this could be the issue, or do I need to further rebuild/clean this thing? How important is that gasket? Will a bad gasket cause the unit to burn hot and shut off?

[HayZee518]

E-14

The E-14 error code has to do with the flame.
You state yellow flames. this would indicate insufficient combustion air. check for a blockage at the air inlet tube. that's the surround pipe part of the exhaust tube. the blower bearings might be on the way out. with a water manometer the pressure should be around a 3" water column.
check for crap in the tube going from the blower to the bottom of the combustion pot. there are two rubber elbows in this line.
it is unlikely that the flamerod gasket would be at fault.
check the fuel sump is clear of all junk. water mixed with kerosene looks like a brown sludge. clean out the solenoid pump filter with a few shots of gumout carb cleaner. clean the sump filter with gumout.
check to see if the outdoor tank is at least 18 inches above the inlet line to your heater. because the flow is strictly gravity feed, lack of pressure will take forever to fill the sump tank.

[Major Tom]

Very helpful thank you. Airflow seems fine. Fan is working fine. My fuel tank is in the basement with a lift pump bringing fuel to the unit on 1st floor. Lift pump is working fine and I'm going through fuel. The unit burns fine for a while with blue flame, then after 20 minutes to a couple of hours, it'll have a bright yellow flame right before it shuts off. It will turn back on OK and work fine for a while longer.
I just got a delivery of Kerosene before this started happening. I thought it was a coincidence but now I'm not sure???
Thoughts?

[hawkins111]

M2400 flame

As HayZee stated, you need the check the air side of the flue on the outside of your house. It should be clean of all ice and snow. The other question is, do you have the correct air dampers installed? One fits on the blower case and should have a small screw through it. The other is in the air hose. It should be marked STD if you do not have an extended exhaust. As a point, the flame will change from blue to orange or bright at the end of the cycle when the fuel is no longer flowing to the burner. At some point the mixture is to lean to burn and the stove shuts off. This is normal. If you had received the wrong fuel (#2) the flame would be yellow all the time and the window would soot up very quickly. The E14 message means the stove lit normal and sometime later the stove quit, i.e. fuel, dirty filter, over heat.

Tom

[HayZee518]

2400

I consulted my 2400 cheat sheets and here's what it says:
E14 Flame failure There are obstacles at circulation
air inlet or outlet.
Fan cage is clogged with dust.
Gas pressure dropped when other appliances are used.

It all boils down to air flow or lack of fuel. no flame no heat, unit in lockout.
try unplugging the unit and plugging it back it. this is the only way to reset the computer.
simply turning it off then on with the push button won't do.

[hawkins111]

reset computer??

HayZee,

Please explain what goes on with the resetting of the computer. I'm not sure what you mean here.

Tom

[Major Tom]

I have tried unplugging the unit, with same results. It has run for as long as 14 hours without shutting down, but usually lasts 15 minutes.
The air intake is free of blockage. I'm not sure about dampers. I'll have to look into that. ?? I get that it's fuel/air flow.

[hawkins111]

M2400 flame sensor

When you removed the flame rod did it have black soot on it?

Tom

[Major Tom]

It had what looked like white carbon build up on it. I cleaned it with mild sandpaper.
Tom

[hawkins111]

troubleshoot the flame

Tom,

You need to watch the flame and the burner light at the same time. If the stove quits we need to know if the flame was strong when the Burner light went off or if the flame dies and then the Burner light goes off. If the flame is strong then there is a problem with the flame sensor. The sensor is not bad, but it is not recognizing the flame. The flame may not be near enough to the sensor (bad burner mat or ring) or the sensor may be too close to the burner or ring. If the flame dies down and then the Burner light goes out there is a fuel problem. Take a look and get back to us.

Tom

[Bryand]

I bet we can solve this real quick. Take the oil line off the burner. Take a 1/8" drill bit needs to be about 6" long and drill out the line going down into the burner. It should go at least 5 inches before hitting metal. You can tell the difference between metal and carbon. I really think what is happening is your line going into the burner is clogged but not completly and will allow the heater to run on low and possibly even medium but when the heater goes to high and runs for a while it is building up back pressure and cutting your fuel pump off. Try it only takes a minute or two. Always try the easy stuff first and eliminate them.

[hawkins111]

M2400 trouble

Major Tom,

Have you had a chance to trouble shoot your M2400? Be sure to rod out the fuel nozzle as Bryand stated. Keep us posted.

Tom

[Major Tom]

I've been away. Just got back and Bam, that was the problem. Cleaned out the carbon on the fuel intake and she's burning nice. Just in time for the deep freeze here in the NE.
Thanks to all.
Peace and warmer days.
Tom

[Bryand]

I have worked on these things for 25 years and don't profess to know it all but I always try to eliminate the little things right off the bat. If it is not running when I get there the first thing I do is take the burner door off and check flame sensor and burner ring. If that is not the problem check the oil line going into the burner. If that is not it then I will try to start it up and see how it acts. If you start it up before checking then you have to wait on it to start shut off then cool down so you can work on it. These two simple first steps can save you a lot of time. You will also know if the ignitor is ok if there is not a fuel build up in the burner. There are some issues with blowers and dirty carbs causing problems but most of the time the few simple steps above will solve a lot of the issues.

[HayZee518]

Monitors [in general]

I started this thread way back in 2006 give or take a few years. I had a Monitor M41 when I moved from the big city [Buffalo NY] to Saint Regis Falls. I didn't even know what a Monitor was. I heard talk about them but......
Anyway, mine had a blower that sounded like a jet engine winding up. The supplier guy said the combustion blower was going. I bought a new motor and replaced it. I put the vacuum blades on backwards and had to take it apart again. This time it made air. It fired up and with a little gentle push it was making heat! So this is the infamous Monitor!
I took apart the blower motor I took out and used a small gear puller to remove the bearings. 608Z double sealed ball bearings. Google searched and saw that the bearings were the same ones used on inline skate trucks. Amazon had a dozen of them for 8 bucks. I checked out MPI and they wanted 26 bucks for one bearing. Are they nutz???
Next came a search for the viewing window. I broke mine so it was off to McMaster-Carr Industrial supply. I found BORO-SILICATE GLASS. It had a temperature co-efficient far greater than the original so I bought a piece. It didn't even feel like glass but it cut like glass. Next came the gaskets. 16.05 for the viewing window gasket. Again there had to be a better way. Back to McMaster and I found a woven ceramic gasket material a half inch thick by 1 foot wide and 3 feet long for 11 bucks. I peeled away until I had a one-eighth thickness and put it on. It worked and didn't disintegrate when I removed the metal, not like the stuff MPI supplied. Next was the burner mat. 55 bucks for a new mat. Again back to McMaster. They had a coated acryllic ceramic material, a little thicker than MPI material but had a temperature rating of 2300 degrees. Bought it put it in , fired up the heater and off I was again to the world of turquoise blue flames. And so on and so forth. I was hooked on fixing Monitors and helping anyone that owned one.