Tweet
i have 1 last problem with my monitor 41,when it lites and and is heating up,it keeps a yellow flame,you can give it a small tap on the back of heater and it quickly has a higher fan speed and the flame goes blue..i don't leave the heater unattended anymore...in time it will go into a blue flame if left alone but it's getting to where i help it go in alot more than not.....is this the fan motor or something else.....it is for sure getting worse
-
-
MOnitor 41
We need to know what you have done to this date. If you have not overhauled the combustion chamber yet that would be a start. Since the blower motor sounds like it has some kind of problem that will have to get new bearings. While you are there the solenoid damper will need to be proved and have the “O” ring replaced. All the work needed on a Monitor M41 may be more than what you want to spend on an old heater. Before you spend all that money I would prove the fuel pump and controller. That will take a flame sensor by pass and a pump to measure the flow. Once the pump has been proved, you can go ahead with all the other repairs needed. Fuel pumps are hard to find and if yours is bad that may be the end of the M41. Keep us posted, Tom -
i bought this heater used in january,it had new gaskets on burner and had set a couple of years..it worked but the glass window was sooted up to where you couldn't see flame at all so i replaced glass ..when i did that i got an 01 code that went away an hasn't come back..the fan motor is quiet and it preforms good on high..it just needs a small thump on back of unit to make it go to high and clear the yellow flame......i was asking because i thought this problem could be common.. for no more that the unit cost i would be better to find a newer one...i was hoping for a damper but that is a quessComment
-
sooted up M41
If the unit has sooted the window once it will do it again unless something is done to the burner, blower motor system, or fuel pump. With soot on the window you have soot in the burner pot as well. Taping on the blower to get it to high sounds like a loose wire. I am afraid what ever caused the motor not to work has sooted the combustion chamber. If this is the case it will have to be gone through again after you figure out what is up with the blower. Sooting up is a normal thing with a unit that needs service but the blower motor not turning is not normal at all. TomComment
-
i thank you for your time and answers,i probably should have used another word than soot..the window had a baked on film that i buffed off but there was a spot in the center that was breaking down so i replaced it from info from this forum from mcmaster-carr..when i got the code 01 i took the rod out and there was no soot or film on the rod or upper chamber that i could see.......i run this heater for about 3 hours a day in the mornings ,while i am working on the inside of new 30x40 building 10 ft high walls so it stays on high most of its running time just heating up that area...the new window has stayed clear since january and being able to see flame has been good to show me of the yellow flame problem that i would not have known about without seeing inside,which as you are saying probably wouldn't take long to cause sooting running prolonged like that..i have never disassembled a monitor before but i will try it in another couple of weeks when the temp outside gets warmer and i won't need the heat..which is very nice now..the heater keeps a pretty blue flame and the center area gets solid red..in reading post, it sounds like the heater is going to be about stripped to get to the blower motor..and as you say the heater may not be affordable or part avaliable to repair..i don't leave the building without shuting it down so i need to get it to work on its on or figure on a different heater...i payed 250 for this one and it is very good on fuel and it has allowed me to work this winter so it has paid for itself..thanks again for your insiteComment
-
also tom,if it helps the blower when it first lites speeds up and it does fine until the room fan goes to high,as soon as that happens the exhaust fan goes to a lower speed,it don't quit turning..thats when the all blue flame goes to a lazy yellow forks coming off burner,when you tap the lower blower housing it speeds up and the flame in a second turns into a tight ring of blue again..as i have said the blower was on high but it drops its speed when the room fan kicks inComment
-
M41 trouble
You need to understand the cycle the stove goes through when it tried to run. Even though your heater is a M41 a M441 chart will work. This chart can be found in a Post named Monitor 441 Heater. Post #63 by Adnadeau has a chart of the timing. This will show you what is happening at different times in the cycle. I believe you have a problem with the Solenoid Damper or the blower motor as well as a combustion chamber that needs to be overhauled. Without knowing when, if ever the unit was serviced, be ready for a new mat, ring, a numbers of gaskets, a couple of motor bearings and a look at the solenoid damper, i.e. a complete overhaul. TomComment
-
circulator fan
the circulator's function is only to force warm air into the room. it has no electrical connection to the combustion circuit. it operates off a plenum switch and the motherboard.
hawkins I think said it. your problem seems to be in the damper solenoid. the air flow from the blower is constant and is only regulated by that damper solenoid and its O ring.Comment
-
thanks,the combustion fan is what i hear changing to a faster speed when i tap it and damper would be more apt to change the flame ..or both fan and damper........i read a good post tonight from magilla that goes into detail on removing the fan and damper adjustment and o-ring replacement so i don't have any other option that go for it and hopefuly it will be a problem that shows itself..the post talks about 2 sets of windings on that motor...i do know that fan is running in high speed in the purging and lighting ...thanks for your input and i hope a damper or motor is something i can still buy....Comment
-
M41 blower and damper
DD,
The blower motor does not speed up early in the cycle. What you are mistaking for a speed change is the damper opening early in the cycle and closing after 2 minutes or so. When the pump level goes to high the damper opens again with a clunk. Read Adnadeau’s post about the cycle. The motor is a two speed motor. If there is anything wrong with the windings, which I doubt, you can’t do anything about it anyway, you will need a new motor. If you do need a new motor you will be able to use a M441 motor which is the same as a M41. Bottom line here is you need to figure out if you have a damper problem. If you can hear the bearings in the motor when you spin it, you’ll need new bearings. More than likely you are going to need a burner ring and mat as well. Let us know what you come up with. It is always nice to get to the bottom of these heater problems. TomComment
-
yes i will let you know what i find,and i haven't forgot about cleaning and checking out the whole thing as well..i know more now what i need to be looking for and i still am reading on this forum all i canComment
-
tore into heater today,damper solenoid looks good,spring,good,ohm 4.35k,motor turns free ,no noise,plug in wires to board ohm 73.3..wires off of capactor ohm 156.6..which is too high as per specs,but would that not be the low speed windings?..i ran the heater earlier as it takes a less hit on the motor shroud itself to get it going..what do you think?Comment
-
blower motor
that capacitor might be at fault. the motor doesn't contain a centrifugal start switch so its left in the circuit all the time.
the capacitor provides an out of phase condition to allow the motor to start.
any motor starting from a dead stop is a short circuit technically. it draws about 125% more than nameplate current. once it starts the amps needed to keep it running drops considerably.Comment
-
i did check the mf on the capactor with a tester and it was right with # on the side of it but i don't remember what the reading was...i will try that...the spec on the winding checked from the leads off of capactor is 92 ohm on sheet and i measured 156 ohm on mine..is that close enough to be ok...all the other readings looked fine,thanks for your replyComment
-
capacitor testing
they make a meter specifically for capacitor testing but its cost is way beyond what the regular home owner can afford.
the next test requires an analog meter like a triplett v-o-m.
with the resistance set to RX1 you put your test leads across the cap. the meter should deflect full scale then go back downscale for a good cap.
reverse the leads and do the same. same thing should happen - go full upscale then downscale.
what is happening is the cap is charging off the internal battery, then discharging through the meter.
a bad cap will go upscale and just sit there at some resistance value.
you cannot test a cap with a digital meter.Comment
Comment