Monitor 41 shows flashing burner lights and will not ignite

[HayZee518]

the FLAMEROD is basically a piece of stainless steel wire which is very brittle. Don't try bending it or it will break! If there is a carbon "bridge" around the porcelain insulator, the electronic circuitry will detect this as a short and will lock out your system. So just clean it with alcohol and a rag. Getting it shiny doesn't do anything for it.
The way a flamerod works is, initially there is 120 volts AC on it in free air. In the presence of a flame, the air around it ionizes, that is it conducts electricity, but, it is now a DC current being fed to the lockout circuit. A carbon short, shorts out the dc signal and the lockout operates and shuts down the heater. As with all monitors, merely shutting off the heater with the push button isn't sufficient. You must unplug the unit, then plug it back in. This is the only way the computer resets itself.

[Venkman]

Thanks for that Hayzee. I thought perhaps I had to polish it. It looks ok so I'll put it back in.

Earlier hawkins111 mentioned using a jumper on the air pressure switch to see if it works. The quote is below. I'm not quite clear on how to do that. Do I unplug the two leads to the air pressure switch and then place the jumper wire between them, simulating a closed pressure switch? Or can I leave them plugged in and jump between them?

Try to start your stove and put your finger on the pump. When the status lights come on you should feel a thumping in the pump. If you don't feel the thumping your next step is to by pass the air safety switch, i.e. put a jumper between the spades that have wires on them. Do not lose the positions of the wires. Use the search feature on the site and read all the posts about the air safety switch and fuel pump. I don't think you have the tank high enough or enough fuel in the tank.

[HayZee518]

the air proving switch has a small microswitch on it with three terminals. one is marked C for common, one is NC for normally closed and one is marked NO for normally open. you'd put the jumper between the common and the normally open because when the switch is activated its contacts would close. there's no need to remove the wires from the motherboard. either jumper the terminals on the motherboard or at the switch if you have access to the spade terminals.