Monitor 441 Heater

[HayZee518]

Monitor parts are Monitor parts. They are not interchangeable with other vented heaters even many look the same. The bearings on the combustion blower are the same ones used on inline skates. the gaskets can be gotten from mcmaster-carr at a price way lower than what mpi charges. the temperature ratings on the mcmaster gasket material is higher than what mpi uses. the thermister can be obtained from Mouser electronics in Texas. Other than what I've annotated mpi charges top dollar for replacement parts but those parts are unique to Monitor. A solenoid pump will set you back about $45. The blower motor, $145. mpi gaskets like for the pot access flap is $16.50. The mica or quartz glass ised on the window is $55 for a small 1 inch X 2 inch piece. Boro silicate glass from mcmaster costs 5 bucks for a 2X5 inch piece. Tell me specifically what you want to do and I'll tell you what you need - hayzee.

[dr.tech]

10 year old 441

I have a 10-year old 441 (and a 6-year old one). I do not have a Monitor dealer anywhere near me and have not serviced them since I purchased them. I love them by the way. The 10-year old one has started acting up last season ... shutting off sporadically, low flame, bearings starting to make a noise.

I'm thinking of dropping it off for a full reconditioning when I drive through the area where it was purchased, but I'm guessing that they are wanting close to the cost of a used, refurbished unit (circa $900) to make these repairs to mine.

• Should I consider doing it myself? ....
• How goof-proof is it to do a major refurb?
• I saw info on this forum re: options to replace gaskets. What about purchasing other replacement parts, like the pot, bearings, etc.?

I don't mind replacing things that are questionable (if i'm doing the work) so a parts list of what ought to be replaced would be helpful.

Any sage help is appreciated.

thanks in advance

[HayZee518]

look inside this section. a member has the file for d/l there. it is just a flowchart that shows symptoms and repairs.
any questions fire away and I'll try to answer them.

[snowmaker]

i could use a copy of your pdf file for servicing my heater

[snowmaker]

441 heator

i could use info on &serviceing a mointor 441 heater

[HayZee518]

send me a private message with your email on it and I'll send a zipfile of the manual. HayZee. The manual doesn't have any pictures on it so if you got questions I'll try to answer them here.

[jdybowski]

MPI 441 Service Manual Help

I have a desperate need for an MPI 441 service manual. Can anyone help? The heater has been defunct since last year and it's starting to get cold! It has a problem where it comes on for a short time then goes off with all the lights blinking. I'm pretty sure the problem is with the burner chamber. I was able to break it down but now I need to figure out what I'm looking at.

[huemogus]

huemogus

I got it going--it was the float that was hung up--every thing is working fine now.

Thanks Hay,for bearing with me and helping me through this.

Thanks again!

[HayZee518]

monitor heater

Since I don't have a photo of it - I did my best to draw what's underneath the cover on the sump chamber. you'll see the black plastic float, the needle adjustment screw, the needle valve that's underneath the float spring steel tang, the support for the float rod, the toggle over center lockout, the reset lever. use a thin finishing nail 2 or 3 mm diameter. the length you'll have to do trial and error but it fits into a shallow recess in the support for the needle valve seat and uses one screw to hold it in place.

[huemogus]

huemogus

I think the reason i am not getting any fuel there appreas to be a pin missing that goes through the float something like a pin that holds the float in a carbrator in a car. Does any one have an exploded view of this area?

[HayZee518]

if there is no fuel in the sump, then it makes no sense to check the solenoid pump. from your oil tank there is a tank valve. make sure its open. then check the fuel filter at the tank. then check for any kinks in the fuel line going into the house. at the sump, there is a stainless steel filter in the bottom of the sump. make sure this is clean and the tiny hole in the sump is clear. this hole goes to the bottom of the needle valve. with the float down the needle valve should be open allowing the fuel to enter by gravity. when the level is up about halfway the float will shut off the fuel. to check the solenoid, plug in the heater and adjust the set point about 10 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature. remove the fuel tube from the side of the combustion pot and put it into an empty can. when the time comes for fuel the pump should pulsate and pump fuel into the can. shut the heater down at this time if there is fuel going into the can. once you've gotten to this point email me back with your findings. the pdf was sent under my wife's email addy. mine is tmierzwa@twcny.rr.com. sorry for the mistake.

[huemogus]

huemogus

Good morning Hay,
I have checked everything and found out that I am not getting fuel. I cleaned out the sump filter. I don't thank the solenoid is working. How do you check it? There is no fuel coming into the carberator the float is not stuck. I have my 5 post now I will send you my email in order for you to send me the Service manual and parts ID. Thanks again for your help.
bgbritton@charter.net

[huemogus]

MPI monitor 441 Service Manual

Would you please send me a copy of the service Manual I can't find the site to download.

[huemogus]

Huemogus

Thanks hay, i have been reading all of your thread and you are the guy with the know how. I would still like to get a copy of the service manual and parts list and Id sheet if possible. Thanks again. I have checked everything out and found i was not getting fuel out of the carborator. The thing was dry. How do you check the fuel pump??

[HayZee518]

check the fuel filter off the oil tank. shut off the valve at the tank or the rear of the heater and remove the large screw at the upper left of the sump fuel tank cover and gasket. fuel will drain out of the sump. use a couple of shop towels to catch the fuel. now, remove the two philips head screws, the plate and the gasket. behind the plate is a small stainless fuel filter. clean this with gumout spray, blow off and replace. the spring goes on the end of the filter and into the sump. replace the plate and rubber gasket. unplug the heater and remove the front of the unit. two screws near the bottom sides of the cover. remove the solenoid wires and unscrew the cover. remove the solenoid pump and check inside for any gunky build up. kero gels sometimes. use a q tip to clean it out. spray the bottom half of the solenoid pump with gumout. don't try to take apart the pump unless you have $145 laying around. replace the solenoid and cover plate. open the fuel line again. the sump will fill with fuel and stop. remove two screws that hold the flamerod to the burner pot. you may have to rotate it to get it out. clean off the wire and the porcelain insulator with gumout cleaner and wipe dry. put it back in the combustion pot. the way this thing operates is, it has an ac voltage applied to it - when there is a flame its characteristic change so it is putting out a dc voltage. the air in presence of a flame, ionized and conducts electricity which goes to the lockout section of the heater. no flame no ionized air - system shuts down. flame ok, flame rod conducts, unit stays on. inadequate combustion air [flow] will cause sooting in the combustion pot and will blacken the mica viewing port. if that's the case you'll need to change the bearings of the combustion blower. a new motor with bearings will cost upward anywhere from 155 dollars.