Monitor 441 Heater

[ticki2]

You might also try unplugging the unit for a few minute to let the computer reset .

[HayZee518]

monitor

the metal cover over the igniter should feel warm when the unit starts up to heat. you might check it with an ohm meter too!
when it calls for heat use the meter set on 200 volts and measure the voltage on the heater [on the circuit board terminals]

[EDNY]

I've dried the burner out until it was just damp but I didn't have any luck with the relight. Does the ignitor itself need to sta.rt dry? FYI this was a rebuild / new burner mat from 2009.

I really can't answer that...but can tell you that my Monitor "took a good amount of time" after being plugged in, temp set and "set" button pushed in. The intake fan just ran continuously until it finally fired up....may want to just wait it out...the fan must vent out the fuel vapor and possibly dry out the ignitor?

[Chris K]

Flooded Burner

I've dried the burner out until it was just damp but I didn't have any luck with the relight. Does the ignitor itself need to start dry? FYI this was a rebuild / new burner mat from 2009.

[EDNY]

After the Blizzard yesterday I had a snow drift cover up my monitor vent and woke this morning to the flashing lights. I shoveled out the vent and after a couple relights had a look inside the chamber. I thought everyone on here would like to see a flooded burner chamber. I've got most all the kerosene out but I still am having trouble getting it lit. After it is flooded does anyone have any tips on how to restart the monitor. I had the chamber only "damp" with kerosene but it still wouldn't relight. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2152[/ATTACH]

I'm not even close to being an expert...but I would think getting some rags in there to soak up the fuel would be the first step. Just this morning I wet my "new wick" and used rags to collect any liquid fuel. Just wanted the wick damp.

When I put it together this morning...had to wait a good amount of time before it took off again by itself. Again, just had my first unit apart this week..but I suspect there is a cycle the unit goes through a couple of time before firing up after being flooded?

Ed

[Chris K]

Flooded Burner Chamber

After the Blizzard yesterday I had a snow drift cover up my monitor vent and woke this morning to the flashing lights. I shoveled out the vent and after a couple relights had a look inside the chamber. I thought everyone on here would like to see a flooded burner chamber. I've got most all the kerosene out but I still am having trouble getting it lit. After it is flooded does anyone have any tips on how to restart the monitor. I had the chamber only "damp" with kerosene but it still wouldn't relight.

[EDNY]

Update

Glued the wick down last night, let it dry overnight and wet the wick a bit before putting it back together. Fired it up and appears to be working fine all morning.

Thanks all for your help!

Ed

[EDNY]

Wick installed & glued - should prime it?

you said you were in Champlain. Mulharney,s in Malone has monitor stuff as well as Adirondack hardware in Keeseville.

Thanks..I found a local service business and picked up the wick & glue. Have it installed and will let the glue set overnight before firing up.

Wondering if priming the wick before putting it back together might be a good idea

BTW: I scanned the wick and package as a PDF file...but it's too large to upload in this forum..have it if anyone needs a copy. I'll be picking up some wick material for any future needs.

Thanks
Ed

[HayZee518]

monitor

you said you were in Champlain. Mulharney,s in Malone has monitor stuff as well as Adirondack hardware in Keeseville.

[HayZee518]

burn mat

at the very beginning of this thread is a list of burner mat material. you can get it at mc master-carr industrial supply. there are several thicknesses listed. I would go with the .040 thickness. also adnadeau has a diagram of the way the mat material is to be cut. like hawkins said its basically a D shaped cloth with three cuts to clear the fuel channel.

[hawkins111]

M441 service

As far as the glue is concerned you can use Monitor glue or Rutland 77, either is fine. You need to be sure the bottom of the pot is smooth, with no warps or cracks. The burner cloth has a definite shape. The mat is a D shape with a cut out for the igniter guard. I will only explain the install of the Monitor part as that is all I use. The burner cloth is a double weave cloth which makes it easy to glue to the bottom of the pot. There is very little chance the glue will come up through the weave, which will disrupt the wicking of the fuel. A thin layer of glue under the area of the mat and a drop on each of 4 corners is the procedure. Gently push the mat into the glue. With the Monitor cloth there is little chance of pushing the glue through the weave. You will need to make sure the heat exchanger is clean and the carbon has been removed from under the outlet. If the motor bearing need replacement that has been explained on the site several times. You also need to check the solenoid damper to be sure it works and the “O” ring is not broken. All this sounds like a lot, but it should only take a day to do the first time. Keep us posted with your project.

Tom

[EDNY]

Just determined that the wick is shot...and understand that I can make my own wick?..can someone point me in the right direction for material AND what does a new wick look like (ie shape, size etc)

Thanks

[EDNY]

Burner mat location?

Edny,

There is never just one thing wrong with a heater that has been in service for a long time. You probably have soot blocking the air holes, a warped burner ring and a burner mat that has lifted off the bottom. All those will cause a bad flame. Be sure your solenoid damper valve works proper. You should be able to hear it early in the cycle (if the stove will fire). The damper will make a clunk when it closes to shut down the air for the low part of the cycle. When you get around to cleaning the burner, be sure to clean the heat exchanger as well. The area below the outlet will have carbon build up and will need to be cleaned thoroughly. With those cars you should be handy with tools. You should not have any problems overhauling your heater. You can get a manual here on this site which will give you an overview of the heater.

Tom

Tom

You are right on...the burner mat was stuck up against the side of the burn chamber causing the flame to run up the side..obviously why the flame was high. Another problem was that the oil injector nozzle was was separated from the chamber and the nozzle tube cover detached (brazing broke).

It wasn't that hard brazing the tube back to the chamber...so that part is repaired. My question is...were is the burner mat supposed to be positioned? I can see that it was glued somewhere
but can't determine the correct position. I do have some high temp glue here someplace.

Also; how far should th nozzle be off the burner floor?

Thanks
Ed

[hawkins111]

M441 service

Edny,

There is never just one thing wrong with a heater that has been in service for a long time. You probably have soot blocking the air holes, a warped burner ring and a burner mat that has lifted off the bottom. All those will cause a bad flame. Be sure your solenoid damper valve works proper. You should be able to hear it early in the cycle (if the stove will fire). The damper will make a clunk when it closes to shut down the air for the low part of the cycle. When you get around to cleaning the burner, be sure to clean the heat exchanger as well. The area below the outlet will have carbon build up and will need to be cleaned thoroughly. With those cars you should be handy with tools. You should not have any problems overhauling your heater. You can get a manual here on this site which will give you an overview of the heater.

Tom

[EDNY]

you must run the quarter mile at frogtown speedway.
if you have a small shop vac, here's something to try. direct the airflow into the blower housing where the inlet tube usually connects to on the back of the heater. start the heater and see what shade the flame is when it starts. if its blue then the combustion fan motor is the problem. the blower might seem ok by sounding but the airflow could be restricted.

I'll give that a try...wish the weatherman would just turn the heat up. BTW: Have both 33 & 34 Chevy streetrods....my profile has our car forum info.

Thanks
Ed