Monitor 441 Heater

[sidol]

Monitor heater

Hayzee, he checked all that you posted.

The pump ohmm reading with the wires disconnected and the meter set on 20k, the resistance is 0.65. The meter set on 2M Volt, on the wires that go to the pump, blue ones, it reads 7.4-7.5. We taped two toothpicks together, measured the kero in the reservoir and it was a little above the full mark.


On the igniter, there is no resistance in any postion you set the ohmmeter. He said he doesn't know how stupid this sounds, but he's no electrician and our son is out of town, (the electrical brain in the family).

During the cycles of performing all the tests, the pump has not come on.

Since you said the fuel should be more than 1/2 an inch in the chamber, (we didn't know there was suppose to be that much or we wouldn't have sopped it up), Jerry said that he is now thinking it's the pump. Could this be our problem?

We apologize for being so dumb when it comes to heaters. Wish this thing was a car, we could fix those. Thank you for helping us Hayzee. You are kind.

[HayZee518]

if you measure no resistance on the ignitor then I would suspect that. at the igniter output on the board you should have 120 volts. with the front cover off and when the unit is going in purge, you should be able to feel heat near the igniter cover. put your hand right on the combustion pot in that area. after the purge and when the pump is called for you can feel pulsations on the pump tubing going to the combustion pot if that's working. if you need a pump that might be hard to come by because the pump controller and pump body is sold as a unit. check my supplier in keeseville ny. elsewhere in this or another thread.

[enater]

I don't really know how to use this. I would like to thank you for all you advice. I am about to replace several parts including the burner pot. There was a tube labeled g17 in the box with no instructions. It smells like glue. Is it glue? Is it some kind of lube? With all your information, i have had no trouble checking, and taking everything apart. The mat was in terrible shape, and even though the unit was not hot, the braise on the fuel line broke off with very little force put on the nut. I have purchased the gasket material from mcmaster, and i am ready to do the reassembly, but don't want to make any mistakes, and i would like to know what the tube of g17 is. Thank you for all you advice. The service people here are not very good.

[HayZee518]

that tube of gook is the cement you use for the burner mat. apply the cement to the outer edges of the new mat, work it down around the igniter channel and under the fuel tube extension. it must be flat on the bottom of the pot. which brass nut are you talking about? the one on the pump solenoid or the one on the outside of the fuel inlet to the pot? there's a flat washer and a silicone rubber seal in this area.

[enater]

I thought the glue was for the mat, but the dealer i bought it from told me the mat was installed, and i didn't have to get into that mess. I can now see it is not installed to your specifications. It is only glued in the corners i will take care of that. I started this whole thing because i was having the same problem as most of the people in this thread. The burner light would go down and flash when it was about to go into high burn. I thought a fuel problem, and i pumped the primer , and was able to get all the burner lights to come on, but the unit would shut down a little while after i stopped pumping on the primer. I let it cool, and tried it again, and the next time, i continued pumping after all the burner lights came on, and the unit worked, and continued working for a week. It again did the same thing, and this time i was able to get all the burner lights on and the unit running on high, but it quit soon after. I got on the computer, and found this thread. Your information was great, and just learning the sequences makes one able to figure things out. I decided to take off the "carberater" and clean it with gum out. I thought that possibly the needle valve was sticking, and my pumping on the prime lever had freed it. The filter was clean, and everything seemed clean, but i cleaned it anyhow. This was when i took off the fuel feed line. The braise broke loose with only a little pressure on the nut. I did not lose, the washers or rubber gasket, so i have them to put on the new burner pot. Because of this break, i decided to check out everything, and decided to replace the burner pot, and the combustion ring was warped, so i am replacing that also. The flame rod looked to be in good shape. The mat was curled at the edges, and this was another reason i decided to replace the entire pot. We have gotten about eight inches of snow today, so i am anxious to get it back together, and see if it works. I ordered gasket material from mcmaster, and that will be delivered tomorrow. In the meantime, i have emergency portable kero heaters, that keep me comfortable, but with the price of the odor,etc. For the first twelve years i serviced this regularly, and have had to replace an ignitor, and combustion fan, and burner matt, but i guess i got lazy, and haven't done anything but clean inside and outside. I really appreciate your information and help. My friends here that have used the local repair service have complained about high cost, and have had continuous problems. I hope my problem did turn out to be one of fuel shortage, but probably won't know for a couple of days. Thank you again

[HayZee518]

on the M41, all that pumping doesn't actually "pump" fuel into the sump. the lever pushes against the lockout lever to keep the needle valve open. the lockout lever is a spring loaded paddle that toggles "over center" and flops when NO FUEL or LOTS OF FUEL is in the sump. Be careful when you re-install the needle valve. It is possible for it to go in backwards so that when it calls to lockout, it doesn't! the small metal tabs on the valve go towards the back of the sump tank. Don't try to bend the spring tab on the float. It will come off the float, that's why they got that little slotted "grub" screw for adjustment. If you ever messed with this thing it doesn't take much turning to open more or close more the needle operation. Oh BTW that channel in the bottom of the pot is rivetted with solid rivets so that there's no leaks in the pot bottom. pop rivets won't work because the "nail" is just in a sleeve that expands.

[enater]

Thank you. I had learned from your earlier replies about the lockout lever, but at the time i was "pumping" i hadn't yet gotten on the computer and found your thread. I put the sump back in today, without the cover to test it. I left the lockout lever down, and went out and opened the tank valve. When i came back in i pushed the lever up, and it filled to what appeared to be even with the line on the outside of the tank. I lifted the float a little, and the lever came down, and then i opened the drain near the filter, and drained it. So, it appears that this is how it should work. I just think that i was jiggling the needle valve loose when i first tried what i thought was priming. At least i am hoping that this was my problem to begin with. I won't know until i get my gasket material from mcmaster, and with our current snow, i don't know if the ups truck will make it tomorrow. From the information i have gotten on this thread, i am hopeful that the needle valve was the problem, but if it still doesn't work, i guess i will be back for more advise. Did you say that the lockout lever should drop when the float is down all the way as it does when it is lifted? Can you think of anything else that could have caused my monitor to shut down, and then start working after "pumping" it like i did? Thanks, down in the teens tonight, and i am getting a little tired of the smell of kerosene, but still comfortable.

[HayZee518]

be very careful with that wick type kerosene heater - if you are not careful or don't have adaquete ventilation IT'LL KILL YOU! Carbon monoxide and co-2 is invisible!
when the float goes all the way down the top of the toggle plate will move to the right and lockout the fuel flow. a lever [tang] on the lockout contacts one of the tabs on the needle valve and forces it down [viton seat against the brass seat]

[sidol]

Hayzee, it was the igniter. Finally just called a guy who fixes them. He came and checked the igniter, installed one and...he also broke one accidently. My charge for the repair was 100.00. Thanks so much for all your help with our monitor. I'll keep this site listed as a fav, in case I have anymore trouble. Take care and many blessings to you.

[HayZee518]

I hope I was able to shed some light on this heater which so many dealerships keep in secret - as there is no secret on how it's supposed to function. It's only a heater that's not to allow kerosene fumes from entering the heated space. what heat you recover is off the heat exchanger.

[enater]

Thank you so much for your help. I got it back together and working. We had a warm spell, and now it is back on. I used the mcmaster gaskets, and had some trouble working with them. I notice now that there is a moment when the heater gives off a kerosene smell,and that is when it first ignites. I have taken a fireplace lighter, and run it around all the gaskets while the combustion fan is running, and found a leak at the flame rod gasket, and replaced that, but i still get that one moment smell of kerosene, and then it seems normal. Is there one gasket more likely to leak at that time. I don't want to redo everything, but i will if i have to when the heat season ends. Are there any better ways to test for a gasket leak? It is working so good, and it is so clean, it is like new, but it never gave off a kerosene smell before. Thanks again for all your help.

[HayZee518]

the combustion blower is the ONLY thing that produces a positive pressure within the combustion pot. therefore, the view port, main access panel [with the view port on it] top cover and combustion pot to heat exchanger fitting and their associated gaskets are the only things that may leak. the other thing(s) may be the "o" rings on the exhaust tube out back of the heater. a smouldering piece of clothesline or rope [something that produces smoke] will aid in finding the air leaks. I saw a smoke making device on home and garden tv but I can't think of a name for it. maybe "leak-check??"

[enater]

Thank you, i hadn't thought about smoke!! I have some long incense sticks that might do the trick. On the view panel in the front, did you overlap the gaskets on the corners, or try to make a tight joint. I overlapped them, and didn't know if that would work. Thanks again

[HayZee518]

just a layer of the gasket material should be necessary. I was thinking maybe a rope type gasket material because the compression on a round object may be better than sheet goods.

[monitor heater]

Monitor Heater main circuit board repair

We repair Monitor Heater main circuit boards and push-button panels in about 72 hours. Call me at 800-782-4449 ask for Dima or visit mathiselectronics