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okay, i'm not an idiot but...41 problems

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  • okay, i'm not an idiot but...41 problems

    This thing is about to put me over the edge. I am a 40 year veteran of service to Mercedes, Ferrari and other high line euro cars, know a little about a lot of things and this little heater is about to eat my lunch

    Unit = Monitor 41 about 12 or 15 years old - has not given a minutes grief the entire time. It operates in a clean environment with the electronics being protected by a decent surge protector.

    Problem = About three weeks ago the heater began to act weird. It would heat and cycle properly for a few days and then begin a peculiar gyration. It would heat and then refuse to cycle. Instead the flame LED began to flash and the machine would cycle down not to re-light.

    As the days passed the intervals between lift off and shut down with the flashing flame light became shorter until the heater became just about useless.

    I pulled the lid off of the burner pot and couldn't find/see anything wrong. I tested the fuel and replaced the tank filter outside and then checked the in-unit strainer. It was clean a whistle.

    Then I called a service tech who advertises himself as being enlightened in the ways of Monitors. He replaced the mat at the bottom of the chamber, the dome thingy that fits over that and the metal probe and line that fits into the side of the burner pot and runs over to the main circuit board.

    I didn't see the original mat and although he tried to point to some flaw in the dome thing, all I could see was what appeared to be a slight surface texture difference in a spot about a half inch long and three sixteenths of an inch wide. He seemed to think that the surface change was hiding a crack, but I have worked with lots of alloys in my time and couldn't see any such possibility. Never the less I let him install a new one. As he was beginning to button things up he suddenly decided that the probe, I suppose it is a temperature probe, needed replacing. He admitted that he had mixed feeling about the need, but I felt like another twenty bucks or so for a known good part wasn't too much to ask for an operational heater.

    We stood there and watched the heater go through several cycles and he left. All seemed well enough until for the next few hours until I went to bed. The next morning though I found the flame light flashing and the machine silent. Bummer !

    I pulled the top off of the combustion can again this afternoon and found nothing obviously wrong. The dome thing was installed correctly and the mat had not curled up at all. I did note though that the mat that the tech had installed seemed a little "cheaply cut". It didn't come close to covering the entire bottom of the can and was far from being rectilinearly exactly square. It was also held down by four small globs of black adhesive (?) at each corner.

    I wire brushed the inside of the metal burner ring, the part that has all of the small holes in it and vacuumed out all of the debris and then reinstalled the domed thingy.

    Once back together enough for a test run I pushed the orange button and the heater from heck started up. It went through about 150 seconds of what must have been a purge cycle and then began to light up. The flame LEDs marched up scale slowly over a period of a few minutes, while the burner began to operate.

    The "flame" was just a very light yellow glow for the first little while and then began to get more intense as I could begin to see some actual flamage, light but there and still yellow. As things progressed the yellow flame became larger and there was obviously heat being cooked up and blown out the front of the machine until a couple of minutes later when the thing abruptly shut down with the flame LEDs flashing.

    I let it cool completely down and then pushed the orange button again. The ambient temp read 66 degrees and I had the target temp set at 68. All went well for two cycles. The larger yellow flame seem to abate quite a bit in the second cycle and was replaced by a blue flame around most of the ring. This blue flame was not completely even, some places being a bit higher than other, but at least it was blue.

    This worked for two cycles until on the third cycle the burner went into it's earlier fits and the flame LEDs began to flash as the machine cycled off.

    This heater is a pretty simple device, I know, but every attempt to isolate a single possible cause of these failures or to catch the thing doing something in a repeatable order seems to be impossible.

    I just have this feeling that my circumstances cannot be a "first" or isolated incident, and that someone somewhere out there has experienced the exact same problem and has been able to overcome it.

    I have searched several sites looking for answers, even the Al's Heating site from up in Maine. That fellow really has it in for Monitors and the company in general. I suspect that he might be able to point me in the right direction, but he doesn't take calls except for from 7P until 11PM and I am not in the mood to spar with someone whom is most likely just wanting to throw bombs at my Monitor anyway.

    So that is the story from down here in the North Carolina mountains. I would be most happy to listen to someone who has "been there" with these 41 heaters and I do hope that some help will come my way.

    BTW: Be unnecessarily kind. Everyone that you meet is battling some sort of issue in their life and adding to their burden benefits no one.

    Jack

  • #2
    the M41 is the same heater I had when I moved here to NY in 1999. How long the people before me had it I have no idea. I didn't even know what a Monitor was till I came here. I heard talk about a Monitor but, anyway. I was out to find how this thing worked. I located a service center about 30 miles from me. I called them and asked about the blower. They said if it sounds like a jet engine whining out, it needs a new blower motor - the bearings are going dry. I went there and bought a new motor for $146. This price made me shudder. I put the motor in and started it and it heated up the place. Now, I was bound and determined to find out what made this thing tick! I went looking for a service manual. The guy at the supplier's had one but he wasn't going to part with it. He said he could get me one for 50 bucks. I said go for it. Three months later I went to get it and he said no, can't give, get you one. I said why not? you ordered me one. He said he thought about it and never ordered one. So, when I got home and the thing went crazy again I dove right in and found a few problems. I went back to the supplier and bought a new burner mat [$45.00] a burner ring [$65.00] and a gasket for the main burner pot access flap [$17.50] I got to thinking - these prices are awfully high. In the process of re0placing the pot flap, I broke the mica/quartz window. I called the supplier and he quoted me $85.00 for the window. I said screw this, there's got to be someplace I can get something as good but cheaper. I looked into McMaster-Carr industrial supply and found Boro-Silicate glass. I ordered a piece three inches by four inches for 8 bucks. When it came I used a glass cutter and made one. That glass lasted for 6 years plus. I took apart the heater during one summer and cleaned out everything. I got new gasket material: ceramic fiber - a piece three foot wide by four feet long for $40 and it peeled down to a workable thickness. I also found an acryllic coated fiber mat to use as a burner mat. this had a temperature rating of 2000 degrees so it had to be better than what MPI had. I bought a piece one foot wide by four feet long for $12. I installed all this stuff back in the heater and test fired it and it all worked. I had blue flames all around. I heard about a damper and O rings from Al Luce. I took apart the blower and there was a damper solenoid inside but no O ring or adjustment for an O ring. All there was - was the solenoid, a plunger a pivot and a plastic flapper with no O ring on it. It never had an O ring. In operation it opens up the air stream from a trickle to full flow to the burner pot. the only O ring or gasket I could see was where the four wires exited the shroud. there's a rubber grommet with silicone sealer on it If you take apart the blower, mark down where the spacers go. I made the mistake of not doing this and the impellar rubbed when I put it back together. The nut is a left hand thread. The bearings for reference are 608Z bearings with an 8mm bore. Same ones they use on inline skates. eBay sells a dozen for around 8 bucks. OK, so onto this forum - we had a user that got hold of a service manual and scanned it and produced a service manual that covers the 21, 41, 441, 442 heater. A link for it is in the monitor suf directory - illustrations. As far as I know it still works. There are also photos of a 441 heater. Give me some specifics so we can troubleshoot your heater. adnadeau gets right into the electronics of the microprocessor so he may have some insight as to what goes screwy with that.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks LOADS HayZee for responding! You sound like a tenacious and resourceful man after my own heart.

      I am not sure that I can add too much to the description above but I will try if you hold my hand and ask questions.

      After starting the thread last night I went through yet another round of cycles and ended up with very similar experiences. The machine plodded through the fire off - heat up - build and hold the flame LED - keep a small blue flame in the ring - cycle off - fire up - get a large yellow flame - cycle down to ambient temp - hold it there with a small LED for a long while - decide to shut off completely with LED flashing - and on into dormancy routine.

      It is luck that I heat the house with two Monitors. This one, the 41, is in the living room upstairs and the other one, a 441, is downstairs where, if left running, will generate enough heat to flow up the staircase and warm the upper level. I live on the side of a mountain at about 4000 feet and the temps and precipitation can get pretty severe so having both of the machines working would be a genuine plus.

      I started to just sit in front of the bad machine and use a stop watch time the sequence of events, but after a couple of cycles it became obvious that doing so was a waste of time as each cycle is different with the same individual segments sometimes longer or shorter. No rhyme or reason.

      As I said, I am willing to go through at least one more round with this thing though. Please ask specifics and I will supply the best answers that I can.

      Thanks again HayZee, Jack

      Comment


      • #4
        OK. your addition of information added a significant factor. Two heaters off the same tank. That brings to mind you have a lift pump on the feed line. I would check to see that the pump is working to get fuel to the farthest and highest heater you are feeding. Starvation of fuel to that heater would be my first question. In reference to the yellow flames. This indicates to me that the combustion blower isn't getting enough air to the mix. When you do an overhaul to this heater I would check two things. Make sure all the openings in the inside wall of the combustion pot are open. Air is supposed to blow through there. Between the combustion pot and the heater base is a gasket with a hole in the middle. This is where the combustion blower air has its connection - up through the bottom. The inner cylinder and the outer sylinder make up the combustion pot.
        The M41 has a CLV a constant level valve. fuel comes in via the rear copper tubing to an internal stainless filter and migrates upward through a small opening in the sump to a recess where the needle valve is. K-1, I don't care if it is clear or dyed, it will produce a brown jellied crap inside the sump and must be cleaned out. The M41 uses a mechanical toggle over center lockout. Get some GUMOUT and remove the sump tank. disconnect the cappillary line at the solenoid pump, the two spade connections at the pump. Unscrew two screws in the top plate and remove the pump and plate together. Remove the four base screws and take out the sump. Spray a liberal amount inside every corner of the sump. You may remove the float and needle valve just remember which way the metal tabs on the needle go. they have to go back the same way. Use a Q tip with gumout to clean all the brown crap out of the sump. If you have compressed air, blow the sump out. Reverse the procedure and put everything back. Don't touch the small grub screw on the float tang. If you do you'll regret it later on. Now, start the heater after you've restablished the fuel flow. It should fill rapidly on account of gravity and IF the lift pump has done its job. After 300 sec the heater pump comes on and fuel ignites. As the flame stabilizes you may see yellow tipped flames which should subside in a few seconds and blue appears around the burn chamber. IF the air is sufficient the flames should be blue, if its yellow or orange, your blower isn't making enough air for the system. It may be time for new bearings on the blower - as I said before 608Z bearings. Check inside of the flexible air inlet tube. There may be a round restrictor ring. Take it out it may be at the line coming from outside or it may be on the heater connection. this should increase the air flow to the heater. Your elevation may have a factor in the mix too because of lack of oxygen.

        Comment


        • #5
          thanks again for the reply hay-zee - another question

          Thanks for information hay-zee.

          I printed it out and I am going to run with it, but I looked at the end of the Google link for the "Monitor Repair Book" and found that it lead to a manual for the 441. Before I print that whole thing out, could you tell me if it is pertinent to a 41?

          Thanks, Jack

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          • #6
            the manual covers four models of monitors. the computer board is the same, the location of the components is basically the same. the difference comes in the 2400 and 2200

            Comment


            • #7
              Checking in here...

              I verified the fuel delivery. Plenty of clean fuel to the float chamber.

              I removed the float chamber and verified the cleanliness of the reservoir and the passage of fuel through the shut off valve.

              The float was not saturated.

              The pump pick-up was completely clean.

              There was no debris or goo anywhere in the system, from external tank through the pump valving. There is no lift pump as the tanks are well above the level of the heater.

              I verified the integrity of the small hose running from the blower plenum to the pressure valve/switch, and the rubber elbow connecting the blower plenum to the metal duct running to the bottom of the burner area. Ditto on the rubber connection at the other end.

              I removed the rubber elbow at the blower plenum and actuated the blower. There was quite a breeze flowing from the plenum.

              I took the cover off of the burner pot and checked again for problems inside. All is at it was earlier. I did note that I could rotate the metal "nozzle", at least it's sheath, that delivers fuel from the joint at the skin of the pot over to a point above the gauze.

              In other words, we have ignition, at least to begin with, and fuel and air, so I see no reason for the burner to not continue to operate unless some sensor or circuit is telling the pump to shut down. The beginning burn process is quite abbreviated and within a couple of minutes, perhaps one or two, the whole system begins the shut down process.

              I am beginning to think that there is a problem with the circuit board. I certainly hope that it isn't because The Lord only knows what MPI is going to want for a replacement.

              Further suggestions or thoughts will obviously be appreciated.

              Jack

              Comment


              • #8
                Look in the manual around page 41-42 where they say to make up a test setup for the flamerod. go to radio shack and get the diode, a resistor, some hookup wire and two alligator clips. Make up this test setup and attach it to a running heater. After the purge, when the pump starts up and ignition takes place, attach the diode to the circuit board. this will simulate a flame being detected. If the the unit goes into lockout, let it cool down, stop it, unp-lug it, then plug it back in and start the cycle again. when you have ignition put the diode resister back in the circuit but reverse the connections. as I stated before about two pages ago, the flamerod acts as a diode in the presence of a flame and conducts in only one direction. If the heater keeps on functioning then the problem is with the flamerod itself, if it doesn't then the problem lies with the microprocessor. there's a guy who's referenced in here as being able to repair mpi boards look for that thread and get hold of him. I suspect all the microprocessors for the 21, 41, 441 ans 442 are obsolete. I looked in the web for jack's cars and came across a dude in north carolina. the reviews were rave - very nice. are you this kid on the block?

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's me.

                  Jack

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just a courtesy note.

                    I gave up on the 41.

                    Tried everything suggested and found myself on the brink of an electronics problem slippery slope and decided to cut my loses.

                    Installed an almost new 441 that I had in storage and it works perfectly.

                    Thanks to everyone, especially HayZee, for all of your time and attention.

                    Jack

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