Rebuilt 422 Problems

[Maine]

Tom- thanks for the help with this.

I removed the blower cover and verified that the damper is in place and working just fine- very responsive, no issues with an o ring that I could see either.

As for the blower, I did hook a shop vac up to on blow and the only thing that happened was the flame going out. I did not spend a lot of time trying to regulate the air flow from the vac.

The fan spins up very fast and makes no noise, it seems to be pushing a lot of air on its own.

I am pretty much at a loss here!

[hawkins111]

bad flame

Maine,

Give us a run down on exactly how you glued the burner mat down. Did you also clean every hole on the burner pot? Also did you replace the burner ring with a new one? What about the Air damper. I'm talking about the one that is inside the air hose? Is it a "Standard" damper?

Tom

[Maine]

Tom, I did not glue the mat down as it seemed to be glued already, this was a new burn pot.

I did replace the burner ring as well.

The only damper I see is between the fan and the burn pot, and it is the original- not sure if this makes it standard or not.

I also removed the restrictor rings in the air intake ends.

[hawkins111]

Air damper

Sorry Maine,

I now see the burner pot was new. The damper you refer to as a restrictor is what I am talking about. It should be in the system. Monitor controls the air 3 ways. One, fan speed, two solenoid damper, three Air damper. Without the Air damper your flame will be too strong with yellow tips. With the damper in and a new mat and ring you should have a nice blue flame.

You did mention the unit needed to be overhauled. Was this due to a warped ring and carboned mat? Was there a lot of soot and carbon in the burner? If there was a gross amount of soot there is a chance the flue pipe got blocked by ice, snow, dirt or something else. If this happened you may need to get after the heat exchanger. If your flame is high in the pot and yellow you may have a blockage somewhere. I would look at the exit port for the heat exchanger.

A Monitor 422 blower motor should last longer than 5 years. Be aware that Monitor has not built a M422 since about 2000. The unit may be only 5 years old to you, but it could be as old as 15 years. If it’s an older M422 the blower motor will have oiling points on the end caps. If it’s a new one, (1997 to 2000) it will have ball bearings?

Stay with it as your M422 is worth saving.

Tom

[Maine]

I removed the rescritor rings as I was instructed earlier in this thread, I will re-install them (hope they didn't get tossed!)

The old parts were dirty but there were no blockages in the chamber- the ring was warped and mat was crumbling apart.

The M422 was bought new about 5 years ago, although now that I am looking back it may actually be 6-7, time flys.

I am about ready to call in a tech as I am really frustrated.

Thanks for the input guys!

[HayZee518]

don't get frustrated! that's the worse you can do. if you wanna call a tech be prepared to spend a minumum of 400 dollars. there's a reason for everything including these simple heaters.

[Maine]

So, what should I do next?

[Maine]

I have given up on this one, I can't find anything wrong.

[hawkins111]

422 troubles

Maine,

Did you ever get a Monitor guy over there? He could do a fuel pump check if needed. You did say earlier you had a M41, can we assume it is on the same fuel tank as the 422? If you have a different tank I would look at the fuel to make sure it is not #2. Be sure all the air and exhaust sides are clear all the way through. One last item. when you replaced the burner pot you did use gasket # 6114 on top of the burner pot, between the pot and the combustion chamber?

Stay with it,

Tom

[Maine]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the support.

The 422 runs on its own built in tank and the M41 runs on a 275 gal external tank with a lift pump.

I cleaned all filters and am using fresh K1.

The only gaskets I replaced were #6130, #6119, #6117, #6115. Should I order #6114? The old one seemed so-so.

[hawkins111]

422 gaskets

Maine,

We are so deep into this I have to ask all the questions. The old top burner gasket would be OK as long as it was not cracked or destroyed. Did you use the old burner insulating pad as well. It is a must to be there. Have your tech run a fuel pump calibration to prove the flow rate. If that is OK then you have an air or exhaust problem. Too little air or blocked exhaust. Have you played with the solenoid damper by removing the wires from the board while the stove is running to see if the damper is really doing what is supposed to. Open on high and closed on low. I'll get back to you on the 11th. I'm off deer hunting.

Good luck,

Tom

[hawkins111]

M422

Maine,

Give us an update on your M422 project?

Thanks,

Tom

[kevyluvu]

One thing I always do when I rebuild a monitor is I disconnect the heat exchanger plenum from the chamber and bang the hell out of it on all sides with a plastic screw driver handle. Those plenum walls come together at a squeeze point and allow soot to build up and block the exiting air flow. Tip the plenum and shake to empty the soot out the two holes and repeat until no more soot comes out. A good chance this soot will cause a burning sensation in your lungs so wear a mask.

Also after every rebuild on the older heaters I set the air flow with a manometer. You can try adjusting the air flow yourself by loosening the two screws that hold the solenoid in place and moving it the slightest amount in the tiny slots will affect your flame quality (if there are no other issues with fuel delivery/ plugs in the system). The newer heaters don’t have an adjustment (all electronic) and I’ve had some that needed it…bummer.

Keep us posted.

[kevyluvu]

Try to find an air leak using a long handled BBQ lighter. Check around the heat exchanger. Check where the plastic fan cover meets the metal housing with the rubber standoffs on the back.

[kevyluvu]

Do you hear the solenoid "click" when you first turn the heater on?