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  • MPI 2400 E13 help

    Will a bad burn mat cause this issue? The mat is lifted, and the side is missing next to the igniter on the flame rod side.
    Thanks

  • #2
    No, bad burn mat will not cause e13. E13 means no flame detected. Check if you have fuel going to burner mat, then check if the flame detector rod is touching the burn ring.

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    • #3
      The rod is not touching any components inside the chamber, visual verification .250" between the rod on both sides.
      Things I have tried.
      Cleaned flame rod, bypassed air switch and ran fuel into a bowl 80 plus drops of fuel, while watching the igniter glow with the side panel/window off, reamed fuel tube in chamber,
      The heater was working fine for few days . I can see it ignite but the flame is not strong enough to be blue above the ring. There is fuel in the pump bowl and the burn chamber is always dry when I have looked in there. I also ran the pump in a cup of fuel so the pickup tube was submerged the whole time in start up.
      Thanks.

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      • #4
        Remove the copper tube from the burner pot and use paper clip, very small screwdriver or the smallest allen wrench 0.05 to check the hole if it's clogged up with carbon. If is, try to clean it and see what happens.
        The picture attached shows it full of carbon.
        Last edited by megrinoise; 12-20-2022, 10:20 AM.

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        • #5
          Yes, a burner mat that has torn or is missing can cause an E-13 message. An E-13 message means no ignition or the main board did not recognize the ignition. If the flame is not strong enough, in the wrong spot, or the burner ring is warped, it won't get on the flame sensor. Everything else seems to be working. There is flame so the igniter is good, as is the fuel pump.

          You need to open the burner chamber up and take out the burner pot. It will need to be cleaned and inspected for a warped bottom. A new mat and ring will be needed. You will also have to replace any gasket you disturb. Not a hard job to do. The only hold up would be parts, i.e. mat and glue, burner ring and gaskets.

          You can get parts from Hickory Home and Gardens in
          North Carolina. They have a big Ebay web site that has most everything.

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          • #6
            Well, I installed a new mat and burn ring this afternoon and I still have a E-13 message. 🤬

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            • #7
              I'm not familiar with the 2400 but I assume it's like my 422 and has an internal fuel filter. Have you checked/cleaned it? A few years ago my 422 showed it was running on high all the time yet the temperature in the house was continually dropping. The issue I found was the screen/filter on the bottom of the fuel pump was covered with dirt/lint from 15-20 years accumulation. Although I wasn't getting a code nor was the heater shutting down I wasn't getting enough fuel to put out sufficient heat. I cleaned the screen on the bottom of the pump and the heater has been doing fine since.

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              • #8
                Just this evening I blew the screen at the bottom of the pump again it was clean, and the bowl was half full. I also did a flame rod bypass, and it would burn a little longer circulation fan would come on. But no blue flames.
                I appreciate everyone helping me try to troubleshoot this.

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                • #9
                  Where are you located?
                  Did you inspect the burn chamber hole for carbon build up? remove the copper fuel line to inspect it.
                  You said: it would burn a little longer...How long? Does it shut down and give you E13 code after that or just no blue flame?
                  Your issue either not enough fuel or air from the combustion fan going to the burn pot or the igniter on it's way out.

                  Last edited by megrinoise; 12-24-2022, 11:00 AM.

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                  • #10
                    I'm in Central Oregon, Redmond.
                    I have cleaned both fuel lines and filters.
                    As far as burning longer maybe a just a minute or two. Not a robust flame I think it threw a E-14 because I pulled the test lead off.
                    I thought maybe it was clog in the air supply, so I took off the boot used a shop vac to clean and blow it out.

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                    • #11
                      You never answered my question about cleaning/inspecting the burn chamber hole for clog Click image for larger version

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                      • #12
                        The burn pot line got the drill bit treatment, and I poked/twisted a piece of 3/32 tig wire against the igniter shield.
                        The copper line had a piece of .035 mig wire ran through it and compressed air.
                        Both passages are clear.

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                        • #13
                          I am working on m2200 similar to 2400 but smaller, kept getting the E13, cleaned the solenoid pump and now it's running perfect, if you want to try let me know and I will show you how. You will a can of carb cleaner. it's worth a shot. the picture is a proof. Click image for larger version

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                          • #14
                            Sure, at this point I just want it to work.

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                            • #15
                              I made an pdf file that has steps on how to clean the solenoid pump. It wont let me post it here due to the size limit, if anyone interested let me know.


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