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JOINING DISSIMILAR PIPE ILLUSTRATED

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  • JOINING DISSIMILAR PIPE ILLUSTRATED


  • #2
    Really nice drawings LazyPup. I have a guestion, is it ok to use a brass fitting to connect galvinized piping to copper instead of a dieletric union? I see this alot and figured it to be a good substitute to ensure against electrolisis.

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    • #3
      Zinc-Copper, Zinc-Brass is electrolytically active. The dielectric union eliminates the "battery" across the joint.

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      • #4
        The code prohibits directly coupling copper to iron, but in addition to dielectric nipples and dielectric unions, it does permit the use of a 6 inch hardened bronze nipple.

        In some jurisdictions the inspectors will permit valve bodies to be used as the transition fitting if the valve has a hardened bronze body but technically they would not pass for two reasons. 1. They lack the code minimum 6" length, and 2. there is no way to insure that the valve will be replaced with a hardened bronze body valve during future maintenance.

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        • #5
          Hi LazyPub,

          How about those "dielectric nipples" that are just a galvanized nipple with a plastic lining? I can't see how they would work.

          Ron

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          • #6
            Very useful indeed. Thanks for the drawings.
            ceramic tiling tips

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            • #7
              Galvanized to Bronze Valve

              It seems to be pretty standard to use bronze valves with threaded galvanized pipe. Why doesn't that cause problems, since they are dissimilar? Also, I have been told that having copper and galvanized in direct contact will not only cause the galvanized to corrode at the point of contact, but will also cause problems downstream. Any thoughts?

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              • #8
                just for ha-ha's take a look at the periodic table of elements from chemistry class back from high school. one side is active gasses other side is active metals. here you'll find Cu=copper, Zn=zinc, Fe=iron, Pb=lead, Tin=Sn. Bronze and brass are alloys of two metals. Brass is copper and tin, bronze is copper and nickel. so, if you mix any of the active metals you can create corrosion between the joints unless you use an alloy.

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                • #9
                  very useful drawings, thank you!
                  Do It Yourself
                  water restoration

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the info! I have a question that no one in any of the big boxes can answer. We jackhammered the basement floor to remove an old cast iron bowl drain and to install a shower. The existing pipe into the floor drain is 2.5 inch cast iron. We need 2" pipe for the shower. WE have searched high and low for a male threaded reducer and can't find anything 2.5". whatever we use must also be able to have concrete poured on top of it. Would the illustration on joining cast iron and pvc work in lieu of not being able to find ANY 2.5" threaded pipes?

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                    • #11
                      there is a fitting called a DESANKO fitting but you mention that at a home depot people are gonna look at you funny. all it is - is a beefed up plastic hub that fits into a cast iron hub and can be oakumed and leaded in place without melting. instead of using hot lead use the newer two part epoxies.

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                      • #12
                        Drawings

                        Thank you for responding back to me.It is greatly appriciated.
                        Last edited by Plumber09; 02-09-2009, 11:20 AM.

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                        • #13
                          drawings etc. are submitted by mostly the moderators of that specific section. lazypup used to be the moderator of the plumbing section as I am of the electrical section. If it helps to straighten out a situation then we will add a drawing or two.
                          Reason for the bowl level not to be consistent is how soon the flapper snaps shut when the tank is flushed. sometimes it closes later or sooner and the time the tank fills as well as the bowl fill tube is later or shorter.

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                          • #14
                            drawings etc. are submitted by mostly the moderators of that specific section. lazypup used to be the moderator of the plumbing section as I am of the electrical section. If it helps to straighten out a situation then we will add a drawing or two.
                            Reason for the bowl level not to be consistent is how soon the flapper snaps shut when the tank is flushed. sometimes it closes later or sooner and the time the tank fills as well as the bowl fill tube is later or shorter.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by kactuskid View Post
                              Really nice drawings LazyPup. I have a guestion, is it ok to use a brass fitting to connect galvinized piping to copper instead of a dieletric union? I see this alot and figured it to be a good substitute to ensure against electrolisis.
                              Brass is acceptable to join copper to galvanized. A nipple of at least 6" in length should be used.

                              Brass is much closer to Galv. on the galvanic scale than copper is and makes a good transition material.
                              I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
                              Now I can Plumb!

                              For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
                              Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
                              Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

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