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  • Toilet Running-Not flapper issue

    Hi-

    When I flush the toliet the tank keeps running water down the tube from the "trap primer line"...basically where the water comes out of the hose inside the tank and flows directly into the vertical tube...it keeps going. The water does not stop flowing until I flick up the blue bar located near the instead left of the tank (not the handle). I think the water in the tank consently circulates down into the vertical tube. Jiggling the handle doesn't work and the flap is close and the chain seems taught. Any thoughts?

    Jessica

  • #2
    If you will look inside the tank you will see a "Water Level" line embossed into the ceramic or printed on the tank wall.

    The water fill valve should be adjusted so that it stops filling when the water reaches the water level index.

    The trap primer line is intended to run the full time that the fill valve is open.

    If the water fill valve is not adjusted correctly the water will overflow down the center standpipe to the bowl and the trap primer line will continue flowing.
    Last edited by LazyPup; 03-09-2006, 10:30 AM.

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    • #3
      We used to have the style you described. That little thing you said you 'flick up' may be a pressure valve that controls level. Not worth replacing. change over to the fluidmaster as shown in pic from LazyPup. Works great, easy to do, not costly. Good Luck

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      • #4
        New Toliet

        Hi-

        This is a new brand new toliet, so I don't want to replace anyhting...I ust think a setting if off or something. What should I do to adjust the water fill valve? Is it a pin system or something? Sorry, I'm not looking at the tank as I type this. Thanks...

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        • #5
          Before you begin please examine the illustration I previously posted again. I had a minor mistake and I have now edited the illustration. The center screw on the top of the ballcock fill valve controls the rate of flow from the fill valve while the second screw to the right adjusts the water level.

          This is a very common problem with new toilets. In some cases the installer just does not take the time to do all the necessary set up adjustments while in new construction the water service has not been turned on yet so we don't have opportunity to make the adjustments.

          If this is a new toilet it will most likely have the "Ballcock" type valve as illustrated on the left side of the above illustration.

          The first step of the adjustment is to locate the "Water Level" index mark in the tank. It is usually printed or embossed into the ceramic on the back inside wall of the tank at about the center of the tank when measured side to side. Typically the water level index will be about 1" lower than the top of the vertical standpipe in the center of the tank. Once you locate the water level index compare that to the actual water level in the tank. (In your case I would guess that the index level is about 1" below the actual water level.)

          Once you have located the index mark locate the water level adjustment screw on the top of the fill valve. Although there is no actual standard, typically each full turn of that screw will adjust the water level approximately 1/2" therefore if your water is 1' above the index you will begin by tightening the screw two full turns.

          While you can adjust the screw while the tank is full, the preferred method is to first flush the tank and make the adjustment during the fill cycle, then watch to see where the water level stops.

          On older toilets, especially those with metal fill valves, quite often the adjustment screw will be corroded and is very difficult to move, or you may feel moving it would risk breaking the screw. In that case you can make the adjustment by slightly bending the metal rod from the fill valve to the float ball downwards. (Caution-if you elect to bend the rod be sure to hold the rod with both hands and make the bend between your hands without putting undue stress on the fill valve head.)

          While checking the tank you should also check the legth of the chain from the flush handle lift arm to the flapper valve. The chain should have about one or at most two lenghts of chain slack when the flapper is down and the flush handle is in the at rest position. If the chain is too long the excess chain gets sucked into the flush valve as the water exits the bowl and it prevents the flapper from reseating properly, thereby resulting in the toilet continually running. (To adjust the chain length you will note that the chain is attached to the flush handle arm by a small spring clip like a safety pin. To shorten the chain simply unhook it and move the clip down to the desired link.
          Last edited by LazyPup; 03-09-2006, 10:32 AM.

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          • #6
            The little black refill tube should spray down into the overflow tube. If the small tube is actually pushed down INSIDE the overflow, it will cause a siphon and cause symptoms exactly like a leaking flapper. Lift the tube out of the overflow. A simple bracket can be purchased at HD or fashioned from a paper clip.

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            • #7
              Try all of these

              I will try these techniques this weekend...thank you for the step by step instructions on how to "turn the screw"....it will help me navigate this issue better.

              Question--when you say "The little black refill tube should spray down into the overflow tube"--should the black refill tube be a little in the overflow tube (like a millimeter) or should it totally clear the overflow tube (hanging above)

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              • #8
                There should be a rigid plastic nozzle on the end of the trap primer line and the line should be held above the standpipe by a metal clip with the nozzle positioned to insure the water will go down the standpipe.

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