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I have received a number of emails asking about faucet supply tubes so I decided I would post a reply for the benefit of all (See attached illustration)
Most kitchen, bath and utility sink faucets are mounted by means of the water inlets. The water inlet tube is passed through the openings in the sink from the top down, then a mounting nut is tightened up against the underside of the sink.
The water lines are then attached to end of the inlet tubes by means of a 1/2" compression nut and a rubber "cone washer".
For the most part we have become lazy and just grab the preformed lines that come complete with the cone washer and 1/2" compression nut on the faucet end and a 3/8 compression fitting on the bottom end to attach to the angle stop.
While the preformed lines are certainly the easiest to install they are without question the absolute least cost effective, and in many instances they are the least reliable for the long run.
Many people are lulled into buying the Stainless Steel Braided supply lines thinking they are the top of the line for durability but in truth, such is not the case. Many of those Stainless Steel Braided lines have nothing more than a thin rubber hose under the braid. They do have a very high rating against a pressure blowout, but when we consider that the entire domestic potable water distribution system is limited to a maximum of 85psi, the chances of a blowout occurring on any line is slim to none, while on the other hand, with certain water conditions rubber hoses or rubber components are subject to deterioration in a relatively short time, as is evidence by the failure rates of toilet flapper valves.
We are now seeing a lot of preformed lines made of Vinyl tubing or PEX tubing. While both vinyl and PEX are high quality tubing they also have a drawback. Plastic pipe and tubing of all sorts deteorates from prolonged exposure to ultra-violet light. Providing the line is inside a base cabinet this may not be a consideration but in the case of a utility sink or perhaps a watercloset supply tube it may be receiving direct UV exposure from a nearby window or even some forms of lighting equipment.
In recent years we are seeing a strong resurgence of wall hung or pedastal type lavatories and nothing in the world looks tackier than a high end pedastal sink with a preformed hose for a supply line.
The next alternative for ease of installation are the metal or PVC lines with a preformed cone washer. The only problem with these lines is that you have to be careful when bending them to insure you don't kink the line. Generally if you only need a gentle bend you can carefully form it by hand without problems but if you need a relatively tight bend the best procedure is to use a tubing bender. Lacking a tubing bender you could also opt for the Beaded type lines as they will permit fairly tight bends by hand without crimping or kinking. Here is a trick. You will need to cut the lines to length and often people run into a problem because they cut the tubing too short. If you will first form slight S curve in the line, then attach the preformed cone end to the faucet with the 1/2" compression nut supplied with the faucet you can then get an accurate measurement to the angle stop, and if you should happen to still cut it a bit short, you can make up the length by straightening out the S curve.
The last option is to use plain 3/8" copper tubing or where a nice finish is desired you can buy short lengths of chrome, gold, or brass plated. One advantage here is that the cone washers, friction washers and compression nuts generally come pre-packed with the faucet.
Most kitchen, bath and utility sink faucets are mounted by means of the water inlets. The water inlet tube is passed through the openings in the sink from the top down, then a mounting nut is tightened up against the underside of the sink.
The water lines are then attached to end of the inlet tubes by means of a 1/2" compression nut and a rubber "cone washer".
For the most part we have become lazy and just grab the preformed lines that come complete with the cone washer and 1/2" compression nut on the faucet end and a 3/8 compression fitting on the bottom end to attach to the angle stop.
While the preformed lines are certainly the easiest to install they are without question the absolute least cost effective, and in many instances they are the least reliable for the long run.
Many people are lulled into buying the Stainless Steel Braided supply lines thinking they are the top of the line for durability but in truth, such is not the case. Many of those Stainless Steel Braided lines have nothing more than a thin rubber hose under the braid. They do have a very high rating against a pressure blowout, but when we consider that the entire domestic potable water distribution system is limited to a maximum of 85psi, the chances of a blowout occurring on any line is slim to none, while on the other hand, with certain water conditions rubber hoses or rubber components are subject to deterioration in a relatively short time, as is evidence by the failure rates of toilet flapper valves.
We are now seeing a lot of preformed lines made of Vinyl tubing or PEX tubing. While both vinyl and PEX are high quality tubing they also have a drawback. Plastic pipe and tubing of all sorts deteorates from prolonged exposure to ultra-violet light. Providing the line is inside a base cabinet this may not be a consideration but in the case of a utility sink or perhaps a watercloset supply tube it may be receiving direct UV exposure from a nearby window or even some forms of lighting equipment.
In recent years we are seeing a strong resurgence of wall hung or pedastal type lavatories and nothing in the world looks tackier than a high end pedastal sink with a preformed hose for a supply line.
The next alternative for ease of installation are the metal or PVC lines with a preformed cone washer. The only problem with these lines is that you have to be careful when bending them to insure you don't kink the line. Generally if you only need a gentle bend you can carefully form it by hand without problems but if you need a relatively tight bend the best procedure is to use a tubing bender. Lacking a tubing bender you could also opt for the Beaded type lines as they will permit fairly tight bends by hand without crimping or kinking. Here is a trick. You will need to cut the lines to length and often people run into a problem because they cut the tubing too short. If you will first form slight S curve in the line, then attach the preformed cone end to the faucet with the 1/2" compression nut supplied with the faucet you can then get an accurate measurement to the angle stop, and if you should happen to still cut it a bit short, you can make up the length by straightening out the S curve.
The last option is to use plain 3/8" copper tubing or where a nice finish is desired you can buy short lengths of chrome, gold, or brass plated. One advantage here is that the cone washers, friction washers and compression nuts generally come pre-packed with the faucet.
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