Leaky shower head in a shower stall (old Delex). What do I need?

[Nebulous]

My shower stall (no tub, shower head only) has a "Delex" brand single knob control, likely from the 1970's. The shower head drips.

Forgive my lack of proper terminology - I'm no plumber in any way!

A knowledgeable friend removed the handle and "casing" (the "rough"??) and looked at the "valve tree" behind it. There are 3 copper tubes - hot water, cold water, and out to the shower head. He said this whole assembly needs replaced. He said the person who does it will need to be able to sweat the connections.

Another friend agreed and said he thinks I'll have trouble finding the replacement part.

The construction of my shower stall is like this:
- Ceramic tile on plywood
- The plumbing behind that
- An concrete outside wall behind that (it's in a basement)

There's only 1-inch of clearance between the outside wall and the title, and that's where the "valve tree" is. According to this friend, modern versions of this require much more than 1" of clearance. I confirmed that is true at least with some brands during a trip to Lowes today.

Can someone give me proper terminology to use for all these parts and also tell me where I can get the replacement "valve tree" that I need?

If it would be helpful, this evening I can add a picture of the current fixture as it currently is inside the wall.

I'm under a great deal of time pressure to get this fixed and feel hopeless at the moment.

Thanks!!

[Nebulous]

Update to my original post...

I just found a helpful picture on this forum at Home Repair Forum > Catch All > Illustrations. Since I'm new, I can't include a URL to this message, but the post there is called "Tub/Shower mixer behind the wall piping."

This was very helpful. The image on the left, which I guess is called a "mixer" or a "diverter" is what I was calling a "valve tree."

That is what I need to replace, but there is only 1-inch of clearance for it and it seems the modern ones are pretty deep. Again, the brand name is Delex (which I understand is a Delta brand) and it's probably from the 1970's.

Thanks for any help you can give me!

[pushkins]

Inside your wall space there should be around 3.5" clearance (this would be the 2x4" stud) this amount of room is plenty for a mixer/diverter valve, be it delta or Moen or most other brands.
The problem I see is that unless the hole in the wall where the diverter is is big enough to cut out the existing diverter and manipulate the new one into place and solder it in (which I doubt) your going to have to remove tile to replace this valve.
I found this site where you can get replacement parts for your existing diverter.
Faucet Stems & Seats: Delex Tub/shower Cylinder Valve Assembly [5217468]

[Nebulous]

Pushkins - Thanks for the reply. But there is not 3.5" in my wall. If there were, I would be able to replace it with most modern assemblies. There truly is only 1" between the outer wall and the inner wall. My tile against plywood, the plywood (I asume) is attached to the outside wall with a furring strip, and in-between the walls are the pipes. The clearance is almost exactly 1".

I will check the site you pointed me to and report back whether it helped.

Again, thank you for the reply!

[Nebulous]

Update...
I didn't see any valve assemblies that would work on that site, unfortunately. I've tried several places online and a few Mom&Pop hardware stores (better than the big box stores for this kind of thing), making sure to talk to the oldest guy there .

No one seems to have what I need. There is a plumbing supply store near my home. I'll probably have to take another day off of work to go there, though, because they are only open during my work hours and I work too far away to go at lunch. [Sorry for the sob story]

As Pushkins said, I will definitely need to remove several tiles and cut out a large section of the plywood in order to have access to the valves so that I can replace them. I had a professional plumber assess it last night and he was stumped, too.

The problem is, the old piece is not longer useable since it's been removed, the nature of the shower stall is such that building the whole wall out further (to create additional depth) isn't an option, and my house is going on the market next week with a disassembled shower. Ouch!

[LazyPup]

There is a solution which I would consider as a last ditch measure.

They make decorative trim escutcheons that are 12" 14" and even 18" in diameter. In a worst case scenario you could cut a small section out of the wall to install a new mixer, then cover that service opening with one of the oversized escutcheons.

Some people actually prefer them in a situation like yours because it provides the homeowner a future service access without damaging the walls.

I doubt if you will find the over sized trim escutcheons in you big box home supply but if you try your local neighborhood hardware such as an Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware, an independently owned hardware or a commercial plumbing supply house you should have no problem finding them. They may need to show you the item in a catalog then order it in for you but even then you should have it within 5 to 7 days.

[Nebulous]

Thanks LazyPup. I'll check into that and again post back here once I have a solution.

Other ideas are still welcome. Is there someplace, for instance, that specializes in selling outdated plumbing supplies like this?

You guys are great, by the way. I posted this in a few different DIY-type forum sites and you are the only ones who have offered helpful advice. Much appreciated!

[mrcaptainbob]

Shower diverter....

I'd take the thing apart. After shutting off the water to it, relieve the pressure by turning the hot and cold on, then remove the stem(s). Oh yeah, cover the drain first! Watch for any clips, springs or 'O' rings. It just may be an 'O' ring or washer that needs replacing. Take any rubber items to a box store, a Mom&Pop or a plumbing supply and find replacements and reinstall. Also, pick up a small can of the silicone grease to aid in installing and operating.
Hopefully you can repair the item without removing the tile.

[Nebulous]

MrCaptainBob -

Unfortunately it's already broken. When I was trying to remove the cartridge, it was frozen -- I couldn't unscrew the stainless steel housing from the plastic cartridge. I ended up pulling one of the copper tubes from the valve assembly. The way it's made, there's no real way to reattach it (you can't get inside there to sweat it back on).

So what I need to replace is the entire thing -- the handle, the cartridge, and the mixer/valve assembly.

(My vocabulary is improving as I research this )

No matter what, I'll definitely have to remove some tile and cut some plywood.

The problem is that the valve assembly only has 1" of clearance that it needs to fit into (1" between the cinder block outer basement wall and the tiled plywood inner wall).

Modern shower faucet controls are deeper than this, especially if they have stops built into them. They are typically designed to fit between 2x4's, so they tend to be between 3" and 4" deep.

So I've come to understand that what I'm really looking to purchase is this: A single-lever shower faucet control with a valve assembly that requires no more than 1" of clearance.

Ay yi yi. I'm still looking.

I hope not to, but I may need to take LazyPup's advice and build it out with a decorative escutcheon. The way the shower stall is made, that would not be ideal but it is doable.

[HayZee518]

just a shot in the dark but try renovator's supply in millers falls ma. they specialize in new outdated house fixtures