Faster hot water delivery

[russell]

Can anyone provide information and maybe illustrations as to how to install a return line to the water heater for recirculation of hot water at my bathrooms and kitchen faucets so that I am not wasting gallons of water in an effort to get hot water to my sinks. Lazy Pup.......this might be a good one for you!

Thanks......Russell

[pushkins]

Wait for Lazy pup to reply but I think you just need to run a return line back into the drain valve at the bottom of the tank (after you remove the valve that is).

[LazyPup]

The return line can be tee'd into the water heater cold water supply line at any convenient point between the cold water shutoff valve and the tank or you can connect the return line through the drain port.

Either way the returning water will end up at the same place in the tank because there is a dip tube under the cold water supply inlet that takes the cold water to the bottom of the tank before discharging into the tank.

A word of caution if you have copper pipe and opt to connect through the drain port. The inner pressure vessel in the water heater is a steel tank and the plumbing code requires a dielectric coupling when connecting copper to ferris metal (the steel tank).

You could remove the existing drain valve then install a dielectric nipple and a brass tee however dielectric nipples are a bit pricey for my taste. Per code when a dielectric coupling is required we are permitted to use a dielectric nipple, dielectric union or a 6" brass converter fitting. You will already be purchasing a nipple and a tee so if you choose a brass nipple and tee instead of a galvanized iron nipple & tee you will have the same configuration plus the brass will provide the code required dielectric coupling.

Anyone who has ever drained a water heater knows only too well that once those plastic drain valves that come installed on the water heaters are opened it is "iffy at best" whether or not they will close without dripping again. When I install a water heater I don't even ask, I simply remove the plastic valve and replace it with a brass boiler cock, which costs about $5.

I agree that there is a bit more energy loss through a brass valve than there is through the plastic valves, but if that is a consideration you can simply cover the valve with some pipe insulation. On the other hand, I find it much more cost effective to throw in the $5 brass valve during installation than to run a service truck burning $5/gal gas and a plumber to replace the valve on a warranty call later.

[russell]

Faster hot water delivery

Thank you Lazy Pup for your reply. Along with the information you posted I also need to know how to connect the return line at the hot water piping that is located at the sink. Do I need a tee to pick up the return line before the shut off valve? Your illustration was great, do you have another for this issue? Thanks again...Russ

[HayZee518]

the piping is just a loop from/to the hot water tank. anyplace you want hot water, just tee into the loop

[russell]

Faster hot water delivery

Ok this will be the last question on this subject, hopefully. When fabricating this loop return does it require the same size as the supply piping or can it be smaller. Also can this loop be one large loop capturing say 3 sinks or does each sink require it's own loop back to the water heater? Thanks for everyones help on this ..........Russell

[HayZee518]

No as far as the loop back to the heater. What I would do is create a loop using 3/4 inch copper out to its furthest point and reduce it down to 1/2 inch for the trip back. Where you need to tap off use a 3/4 X 1/2 X 3/4 Tee.

[LazyPup]

I just finished making an illustration that should help you understand how it works. In the illustration I simply used a kitchen faucet to represent all the different hot water loads in a structure.

In the illustration I have the hot water supply line loop connecting directly to the fixture angle stops, but in the real world we run the loop in a direct line as close as possible and try to keep the branch lines to the fixtures as short as possible.

The circulation pump can be installed at any convenient point after the last fixture.

The return line can be connected to the cold water supply line of the water heater at any convenient point downstream of the water heater cold water supply valve and before the union on the cold water supply at the tank. (Unions are required within 1' of the water heater).

Circulation pumps designed for hot water recirculation are typically rated at about 2gpm. For flow rates up to 3gpm you may use 3/8" copper for the return line, however it is customary to use 1/2"

When installing a hot water recirculation pump all accessible hot water lines should be insulated on both the hot water supply and the return line.

[vdotmatrix]

A company called WATTS make a hotwater reculation kit for about $200 i think. Very easy to install by but this "T" or a "U" at the furthest facet in the house and the small electric recirculator , on a timer, near the water heater. I have been forgeting to install this thing for the last 2 years....but I saw it first on the ED the Plumber on DIYnetwork on cable.

Cheers, hope this helps

Vin