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  • #16
    Originally posted by drgto View Post
    I missed your wet venting for the toilets by using the sink to the left…is that really necessary with the other dry vent in place? The reason I ask is because that is an existing bath with no access to add venting above.
    As you drew it they were vented, all the toilets need venting.

    What do you mean by studor vent? Are you referring to the new 1st floor roof vent I added? I could connect that to the existing vent stack if that is preferred.
    Sorry studor is a brand of aav where you have it many not be allowed in many codes I don't know about your's through the roof would be my preference.

    It’s hard to draw fittings on the isometric drawing…that is why I listed two of the toilet fittings in my text. Are they not the correct ones to use? I've listed them below again and added some more.
    1. Toilet directly over 3" drain
    ...a. Combination WYE & 1/8 bend w/side inlet (part No 515 - pg 32)
    side inlets in bends are susceptible to clogging and are flat, is it possible to lengthen the run slightly so a upward rolled wye can be used? How much space do you have on a vertical plane?
    ...b. Flush Closet Flange (part No 815 - pg 40)
    The closet flange is pretty much immaterial but my preference is one with a stainless steel ring.
    2. Toilet that branches off a bit
    ...a. Long sweep 1/4 bend w/side inlet (part No 311 - pg 20)
    Again I'd find a way to avoid side inlet
    ...b. Offset Closet Flange Adjust (part no 820P - pg 41)
    stainless steel ring preferred
    3. Where 3" turns and 2" continues to kitchen - use 'Y' 3x3x2 something like part no 502 - pg 30 or Sanitary Tee part no 400 -pg 23
    on the horizontal a 3X2X3 wye or a 3x3x3 reduced to 2 would be used
    4. For cleanouts I was thinking of a two way clean out (part no 448 - pg 29)
    probably not what you want to use but seeing placement of cleanouts on the drawing would be good

    I did not understand what you said about the usage of sani-tees vs wye and 45’s or, combo’s.
    Look back to the 1st page of the thread i put a drawing up that I missed putting up earlier showing a combo used in a horizontal to vertical transition and how it affects venting

    I do understand that all vents and drains must maintain a ¼” per foot pitch down stream. And I believe I have a handle on the direction of fittings as well. For example, on a ‘y’ the bottom of the ‘y’ should be pointed towards the sewer line but if used for venting the bottom of the ‘y’ should be pointed to the air source. In either case, the goal is to have a smooth flow of waste water or air. Is that correct?
    your wording lost me but the vents should be piped just like they were flowing water

    Oh by the way, you have been such a great help and I sure hope I pass the 101 course. This has been a great learning experience.
    You are doing pretty good as a student.

    Now a key part of the vents and wet vents they should all enter the horizontal run on the wye pitched upward so they are draining into the line... I'll see if I can find a picture which demonstrates this and get back to you.
    I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
    Now I can Plumb!

    For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
    Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
    Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

    Comment


    • #17
      Hi Redwood,

      I went with the aav because there is no roof suitable to use nearby for venting since it has a downward pitch (inside ceiling follows pitch) plus there are windows nearby if I left the vent at the top. I wasn’t sure of any other options so in went with the aav. I know a neighbor is using one so I hope it is okay by code; will have to do some more homework.

      (9pm) Brain storm...I was thinking that maybe I could run the vent pipe with the aav (with aav removed of course) into the wall and then along side the inside of the band joist and out the back and then make a right angle and connect to the new roof vent I plan to install. Can I run a vent pipe such a distance (15'+) and have various bends? I'll have to update the drawing so you can see what I am thinking.

      Toilets:
      There is about 12” (2x10 +) from top of drain pipe to bottom of floor. I’ll have to look up an upward rolled wye to see if it will fit and how the vent will connect so I can understand this layout.

      So a wye has more of a smooth curve vs a sanitary tee and is better to use for turns when a ‘y’ is needed.

      On the horizontal run I’ll use the 3x2x3 wye or the other option you have suggested.

      As for the cleanouts, can I use a wye with a treaded cap?

      Someone told me that a vented ‘y’ should flow towards the trap so the air flows smoothly…and if I understand you correctly…the vented ‘y’ should be installed no different than if water was coming down and therefore be installed so the flow is towards the sewer or down stream. Reverse of what I was told. My logic told me that was wrong because the water running down the pipe may hit the ‘y’ and start trying to go up and therefore slow the flow…I’m so glad you corrected that because now I can count on my logic again.

      I think I understand what you mean by an upward pitch for the wye…that way waste can not back-flow into that part of the vent/drain. Is that correct?

      Thanks once again,
      Dan
      Last edited by drgto; 01-30-2010, 09:05 PM.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by drgto View Post
        Hi Redwood,

        I went with the aav because there is no roof suitable to use nearby for venting since it has a downward pitch (inside ceiling follows pitch) plus there are windows nearby if I left the vent at the top. I wasn’t sure of any other options so in went with the aav. I know a neighbor is using one so I hope it is okay by code; will have to do some more homework.

        (9pm) Brain storm...I was thinking that maybe I could run the vent pipe with the aav (with aav removed of course) into the wall and then along side the inside of the band joist and out the back and then make a right angle and connect to the new roof vent I plan to install. Can I run a vent pipe such a distance (15'+) and have various bends? I'll have to update the drawing so you can see what I am thinking.

        I can't see what you are doing but the code does specify distances to windows and other openings. This product may be of interest if you are doing any new vents through the roof. http://www.kozykollar.com/

        Toilets:
        There is about 12” (2x10 +) from top of drain pipe to bottom of floor. I’ll have to look up an upward rolled wye to see if it will fit and how the vent will connect so I can understand this layout.

        So a wye has more of a smooth curve vs a sanitary tee and is better to use for turns when a ‘y’ is needed.

        Yes it offers direction to the flow that is needed on the horizontal plane where the sani-tee is used vertical because of the gravity assist and also allowing air flow back along the top.

        On the horizontal run I’ll use the 3x2x3 wye or the other option you have suggested.

        As for the cleanouts, can I use a wye with a treaded cap?

        Absolutely

        Someone told me that a vented ‘y’ should flow towards the trap so the air flows smoothly…and if I understand you correctly…the vented ‘y’ should be installed no different than if water was coming down and therefore be installed so the flow is towards the sewer or down stream. Reverse of what I was told. My logic told me that was wrong because the water running down the pipe may hit the ‘y’ and start trying to go up and therefore slow the flow…I’m so glad you corrected that because now I can count on my logic again.

        I think I understand what you mean by an upward pitch for the wye…that way waste can not back-flow into that part of the vent/drain. Is that correct?

        Yes

        Thanks once again,
        Dan

        I think you've got it pretty well now.
        I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
        Now I can Plumb!

        For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
        Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
        Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

        Comment


        • #19
          Thank you!!

          Thank you Redwood for all of your help, advise and providing me with the knowledge I needed to move forward.

          I did have one more question. On the attached reviewed isometric drawing I removed the aav and made it so the vent will be connected to the new roof vent. However, I also changed the 3" pipe to 2" pipe for the washer drain and where the shower connected...is this OKAY is 3" pipe required?


          Dan
          Last edited by drgto; 01-31-2010, 01:20 PM. Reason: added drawing

          Comment


          • #20
            At the point where the washer drain connects to the shower and lav you should go up to 3" under many codes, it will help prevent the washer from coming up in the shower...

            Also you should check the code requirements on sizing of the vent through the roof. I imagine in your area there is a requirement to upsize to prevent frost closure.
            I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
            Now I can Plumb!

            For great information on the history of sanitary sewers including the use of Redwood Pipe
            Visit http://www.sewerhistory.org/
            Did you know some Redwood Pipe is still in service today.

            Comment

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