8 years old shouldn't be struggling that bad on its own, so look at a few things before assuming it's dying.
When's the last time the coils were cleaned — desert dust cakes the outdoor condenser coil and kills efficiency, that's the most common thing out here.
Check the filter too, same idea, restricted airflow makes the whole system work harder for less.
Also worth checking the refrigerant charge if neither of those fixes it — an undercharged system will run nonstop and never quite get there.
115 outside is genuinely hard on any AC, but "running constantly and losing" at only 35 degrees of differential usually means something's reducing its capacity, not that it's just outmatched.
I thought that you could only expect 20-25 degrees below outside temps? I know insulation and other things play a role but 35 degrees reduction seems pretty good to me.
At 115°F outside, that's a lot for any AC to handle. I'd start by checking the filters, condenser coils and airflow, just to rule out any issues with the unit itself.
Another thing worth checking is the attic insulation. If the roof is absorbing heat all day, the AC has to work much harder to keep the house cool.
Rigid XPS insulation boards can help reduce heat transfer in suitable roof assemblies. I work with jumbolon, which makes XPS insulation boards, so it's something I'm familiar with. That said, I'd check the existing insulation and ventilation before spending money on upgrades.
Does your AC eventually reach the set temperature at night, or does it struggle even when it's cooler outside?
AshRae is right that 20 degrees below outside is the usual design target, so holding 80 inside at 115 is actually doing better than spec. That said, if it never shuts off even late at night when it cools down, it is worth a closer look.
A quick check you can do: once it has run for 15 minutes, measure the air temperature at a return grille and at the closest supply vent. A healthy system usually shows about a 15 to 20 degree drop. If you are only seeing 8 to 10 degrees, that points to low refrigerant, a dirty indoor coil, or a weak compressor, and that is when it makes sense to have a tech put gauges on it before deciding to replace the unit.
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